Nine years have passed since Nicki Harrison paved the way for what would become a trend: themed venues. She invited us to travel to the time of Prohibition, with a setting inspired by the 1920s that transported us to another world. She was one of those responsible for coining the now overused term “experience” and, after the fury of the beginning, Nicki Harrison became a classic. They tried to copy it many times, but with their next ventures – Uptown, Bourbon, Brunch & Beer, and Trade Sky Bar -, restaurateur Andrés Rolando established himself as the great expert in the genre.
With the tail end of the pandemic, Rolando decided to take the time to give Nicki Harrison the makeover she owed her. He made changes in the room integrating the space more and renewed the setting, of impressive art deco inspiration (wonderful work of the architect Paula Peirano). The true debt with Nicki was to enlarge the kitchen, which today allows expanding its Nikkei gastronomy proposal, offering a more complex, more elaborate cuisine, with more technique (in charge of the Peruvian Rubén Young).
Some of the dishes we tried were the Ceviche Wasabi Nikkei, white fish and seafood with leche de tigre with wasabi and crispy seafood; the usuzukuri tiradito (a type of cut into very thin slices, on the bias) of octopus with citrus emulsion of oysters, ginger syrup, and coconut milk; and the hot grilled shrimp and avocado roll with crispy fish and gratin curry sauce. It is a playful cuisine, full of layers of flavors and textures to discover (sorry about the lack of spice), but the real star of the night was the Remon Sake Niguiri, with salmon belly, sealed with miso and togarashi. Simple, forceful… almost moving.
They also added a cocktail menu that goes well with the type of cuisine (the perfect matchand-tonic, a gin and tonic with matcha tea cordial). Before closing for the night, ask to go to the cellar. If you are one of the faithful followers of the house, you will already know its wonderful secret.
