VAenezia has the beauty of decadence, like a beautiful woman who knows she has nothing more to lose. Henry James wrote it, and it is precisely this poignant, seductive melancholy that turns into euphoria in February. After a January of (relative) lethargy, with few tourists and many closed rooms, Venice at Carnival lights up with masked dances, private parties and celebrations that crowd calls, buildings, large hotels. There is the popular carnival, the masks that parade everywhere, and the exclusive one, made of private events in the noble buildings and in the most refined restaurants. Theme of 2025: the time of Casanova. So let’s start to discover the most seductive Serenissima.
For dinner from Local, in the Castello Sestiere
Neapolitan cook, Venetian patron: the Alchemy of Local, a starry restaurant in the easternmost area of the city, between San Marco and the arsenal, is also this meeting of cultures. Local combines research, technique and – can we say it? – fun. In a few weeks he will open a pop version, a few steps in the same Calle: Trattoria del localwhere the Italian tradition will be interpreted with the care and refined taste of the chef Salvatore Sodano and the entrepreneur with long London experience Benedetta Follin, who guides the restaurant together with her husband Manuel Trevisan.
In the fine dining version, Local continues to amaze with original combinations, such as The selection of tea from all over the world served cold and in wine glasses; An idea that subverts the classic rules of pairing. Even the wine charter follows an unusual philosophy: all the labels are served, by the glass, by a magnum format, to enhance the complexity of the wines.
Chef Salvatore Sodano He works with mastery on the pastry of meat and fish, enhancing the courses with fermented plants, complex sauces, spices, aromatic herbs. The result? Dishes with a perfect balance between intensity and lightness. Try the Robiola risotto with levistic extract, mussels, clearing and herring caviar: it gives adrenaline on the palate. A coffee trolley bonus and that of cone ice cream. Do not come out without looking once again the wonderful Venetian floor with thousands of red Murrine wisely stuck in the sowing: they seem to be stars of a upside -down sky.
Info: Local, Salizzada dei Greci, Sestiere Castello 3303. www.ristorantelocal.com
Hemingway risotto at Gritti Palace
Gritti Palace – In 1525 it was the private residence of the doge Andrea Gritti -, five stars luxury overlooking the Grand Canal, is an aesthetic, sensory and gastronomic experience. Sleeping in one of the suite, furnished with period furniture and precious fabrics, is a dream for a few. But the Gritti (two Michelin keys) has been able to intertwine a closer relationship with the city, also welcoming those who only want to savor an aperitif or a copy dish.
An illustrious name binds its name to the hotel cuisine: Ernest Hemingway. A lover of good table and of the Ritual of preparation, the writer created the famous “Hemingway risotto” during one of his long Venetian stays, between 1948 and 1954. That risotto, with scampi and fish broth, is still on paper. Obviously it is not the only thing to order: the chef Alberto Fol and the talented sous-chef Luca Cesario propose a card that ranges between Venetian classics, such as stuck cod or polenta with liver at the Venetian, and contemporary creations, but always with references to lagoon products and the first hinterland.
The Hemingway Presidential Suite, The Gritti Palace
For those who want to get their hands dirty – and the ordinance apron – with the Venetian culinary tradition, there is the Gritti Epicurean School. The day begins among the desks of the very animal market of Rialto and ends in the large kitchen of the hotel. The school has been held for years and has great success. That same central table will soon become an exclusive chef’s table, on which to taste the dishes under the eyes of the brigade.
Doge Restaurant Club, The Gritti Palace
Longhi bar, an aperitif between mirrors and turquoise light
We go down to Gritti for the spectacular view of the Grand Canal and the Basilica of the Madonna della Salute, for the impeccable service, the timeless charm of Longhi bar. Here, between ancient inlaid mirrors that reflect a turquoise light and burnt orange velvet details, author cocktails sip or a classic open -mindedness spritz. Then there is the terrace: with the first rays of sunshine it becomes the priceless place for a lunch to remember. And if you want to cuddle, at Gritti Palace you can conclude the day with a face or body signed body. Because at carnival, between masks and mystery, beauty – like Venice – knows no time.
Info: The Gritti Palace, Campo Santa Maria del Giglio 2467. www.marriott.com
Ca ‘of God: the luxury of sobriety
After the timeless pomp of the Gritti, here is a address of sophisticated and essential elegance, a refuge collected. It is the Ca ‘of God, medieval religious hospice, transformed into the boutique hotel of extraordinary refinement thanks to the axle of Patricia Urquiola. The famous designer intertwined past and present with noble materials and a color palette that recalls the shades of the lagoon: every detail dialogues with the city without ostentation. The internal dehors is an oasis of peace, with discreet plants and furnishings to donate a dream atmosphere.
Ca ‘of God (Photo by Rubelli Zelda)
At sunset ca ‘of God reveals the most scenographic side: the bar alchemia becomes a stage for an author aperitif, even more suggestive in this period. During the carnival, the staff dress in mask. Cocktail inspired by the Venetian tradition are served, great classics and original creations in harmony with the gastronomic proposals that are entering paper, such as Ambrogino (a type of bread) at the astice. Curiosity: each drink can be served with a large pure pure ice cubic with its initials.
True: the cuisine that tells Venice
Gabriel Collazzo, Tuscan chef at the helm of the gastronomic offer of Ca ‘of God since last month, has its reign in the true restaurant, where contemporary cuisine meets the local tradition. Territory ingredients, fresh fish and seasonal vegetables, make up balanced and refined dishes. All served in an environment that transmits the essence of Ca ‘of God and Venice itself, with its reflections of soft light on a building that for centuries has marked its most intimate and spiritual history.
Info: Ca ‘of God, riva ca’ of God 2183. www.vretreats.com
From Ivo: the Star Restaurant in Venice
For decades, it has been welcomed the international jet set with its authentic atmosphere and timeless cuisine: it is called from Ivo (address San Marco 1809). This historic restaurant is a must for those who want to breathe a genuine and open Venice in the world. Its rooms hosted some of the best known names, by George Clooney – here celebrated his bachelor party – in Bono Vox, from Hilary Clinton to Matt Damon, from Michael Jordan to Sting, from sugar to Leonardo DiCaprio. And the list grows day by day: word of mouth among the celebrities has made an indispensable stop from Ivo. But the real star is the menu, with plates such as the paccheri alla graseola, creamy and enveloping; Venetian cuttlefish, soft and fragrant of sea. No artifice, nor elderbractions as great chefs. From Ivo it has been mentioned several times among the best historical trattorias in Italy (but be careful: the prices are from a noble restaurant), confirming its institution status.
Info: S. Marco, 1809, 30124 Venice Ve. www.ristorantedaivo.it
Other restaurants in Venice, the Gondolieri palate
We conclude our tour between calli and Campielli, in a city dotted with gastronomic horrors for the tourist mortars and runs away, with some popular but quality address, which is sometimes not an oxymoron. Let’s start from The ancient Carampanin Rio Terà de Le Carampane, a historic place very popular with the Venetians. Based on fish of the nearby Rialto market, it is a hymn to the Venetian tradition And he never betrays the quality that makes it an obligatory passage of Venice to eat. Among the Bacari, or the like, we point out the Gislon Rosticceria (Calle de la Bissa 5424), where with less than 20 euros you can satisfy you with quality cicchetti (renowned mozzarella in carriage with anchovy, they make over 500 per day).
If JD Salinger wondered, in his novel The young Holdenwhere the ducks of the Central Park in winter go, when the ponds are frozen, we more modestly ask ourselves: Where do the gondoliers go to eat? Here are two favorite addresses by the scenic remarkers: Noble casin in Dorsoduro, Trattoria Vittoria in Cannaregio and Pontini (Rialto). Local where the timeless Venetian culinary triumphs. Maybe not in gondola -it would not be cheap -but it is worth going there and finding out if the gondolier palate is up to their expertise in navigating the channels.
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