Currently, the situation in the owner-managed specialty shops and boutiques is as diverse as the respective locations and product ranges. But it seems clear: the year was in many ways not as bad as its reputation. Thanks to creative marketing measures, the small and medium-sized specialty stores in particular with a high proportion of regular customers have often been able to achieve their sales targets. And how does it go on now?
The start of the season in spring 2022 is not infrequently delayed due to late or canceled deliveries. At the same time, Omikron creates uncertainty. At the moment it only seems certain that the uncertainty of the last 20 months will also be a permanent guest in 2022. What does this mean for the autumn / winter 2022/23 order?
The retailers try to adapt to all eventualities in fashion. To do this, they rely on their proven mix of suppliers and established partnerships. The issue of price development and price point ranges should cause friction.
Andrea Schütz, Tutto in Frankfurt: “We need good mood parts”
How is the mood? “Well, so medium,” says Andrea Schütz. After the introduction of 2G, the frequency was initially “cut off, but quickly returned to normal”. Now the boss of the contemporary fashion boutique in Frankfurt’s Westend is already preparing for a possible lockdown. At the same time, they are worried about the delivery situation.
You can rely on their German suppliers – Schumacher and Lala Berlin are the most important – but the Italians and French are a long time coming. “The November delivery date is still not there,” says Schütz. As a result, she lacks goods for the start of the season, new products that she can post on Instagram and offer her regular customers, and “we will soon have nothing more for decoration”. The inspiring decorations in their generous window front are one of their most important marketing tools.
For the spring, Andrea Schütz made a conscious “normal” order, as if we were facing a carefree summer. After all, “you can’t just go through life in a jogging suit.” Even her customers – regardless of Corona or not – don’t always just want loungewear to chill out on the couch, “they need inspiration, distraction, the needs are still there ”, Says Andrea Schütz,“ even if it is not that easy to use ”.
Her recipe for the autumn order is therefore a casual look for every day that conveys a good mood. And how do the price increases affect the mood? “I’m curious about that,” says Schütz. With their regular suppliers, “the jeans are now all at almost 300 euros”. But for them that is also the sound limit, “I will not buy a model that hangs in the store for over 300 euros”.
Maximilian Häßner, Textilium in Nidda: “Jogging pants remain an issue – if they are suitable for parties”
A good 350 square meters of fashion, a warm atmosphere, approachable product ranges – that is Textilium, located in the middle of Nidda in the Hessian Wetteraukreis. “In the end, the year went really well,” sums up owner Maximilian Häßner, “only the delivery situation is difficult.” So we cannot really talk about the start of the season. “We just have to see what’s there and present it in such a way that it becomes a well-rounded affair.”
At the moment he is still waging the Christmas business, under 2G conditions, which have also torpedoed the frequency at Textilium: “Significantly fewer customers come to the store,” observes Häßner. He and his team have long been prepared for the pandemic situation with its ups and downs to remain in place for the time being: “We have to address and pick up customers differently, give them confidence and motivate them again and again,” says Häßner. After all: “The consumer sentiment is good with the customers who are there”. Nevertheless, the frequency is “different every day, so hardly anything can really be planned”.
And yet you have to order too. Will customers be more likely to find something for the sofa or for going out next autumn in his range with labels such as Only, Yaya, Someday, Levi’s, or Marc O’Polo Denim? “Both,” says Maximilian Häßner, “we need a healthy mix, because everyone wants to be comfortable – but the parts have to be able to go out at the same time.” Is that feasible with his suppliers? “We can do this”.
Christiane Döring, Drop In Moden in Lindau: “Homewear? Is much too arbitrary! “
“Since 2G, the frequency has fallen a lot,” says Christiane Döring, owner of Drop In Moden. The problem: Your location in Lindau is in Bavaria, but on the border with Baden-Württemberg; therefore the customers who come from two federal states with different regulations are “totally insecure”. Christiane Döring herself is amazed that she was able to finish at par in 2021 despite all the difficulties.
If there is another lockdown, “I can only hope that customers will continue to support the specialist trade in this way”. So far, her clientele has also gone along with price increases. According to her experience, it depends on the correct narration: “I inform my customers intensively about the goods.” In dialogue with their suppliers – Luisa Cerano, Peserico, S. Marlon, Affair of the Heart or Hannes Röther are their driving forces – she plays The value of the goods, the production sites and conditions therefore play an important role, as does the question of whether “the goods have developed sufficiently in terms of fashion”.
Because although the new year is again under the sign of the pandemic and events such as anniversaries or weddings cannot be reliably planned, “we have to create a balance with unusual fashion”. Therefore, there will be no homewear at Drop In Moden next autumn, “but fashion for every day”. Specifically, that means: “Jogging pants, yes, but not a hoody with it, but an attractive blouse.” Does it have to mix more, become even more individual? “Exactly, the mix has to be even more special,” says Christiane Döring, “but that can be implemented well with my suppliers”.
Michaela Lenk, Lenk fashion in Pforzheim: “We need the combination of close proximity to customers and good base price ranges in the range”
Apparently it’s all a matter of getting used to, even 2G. “At first we had a couple of very quiet days,” says Michaela Lenk, “but then the frequency was very good again.” And suddenly not only regular customers, but also a surprising number of walk-in customers found their way to her 200 square meter store in the heart of Pforzheim. The right fashion is also there, “even goods that were slightly delayed could be integrated into the range and sold very well,” said Lenk. Marc Cain, Riani and an affair of the heart are the most important suppliers, followed by Esisto, Raffaello Rossi, Tillys T-shirts and, more recently, FTC.
The start of the season with Marc Cain and Riani got off to a good start, “We had a bombshell in November and December,” says Michaela Lenk. And how does it go on now? If there is a new lockdown, “we will have to and be able to live with it, because thanks to the customer proximity that we have built up, we will also get through another lockdown”, believes Michaela Lenk. “For us retailers, especially in a lockdown, it is important that we continue to look after our customers via social media and believe in ourselves.”
Despite the uncertainty, she also bought occasional fashion again for spring, because dresses and blazers were missing in 2021. When placing the order for next autumn, she particularly wants to ensure that the knitting themes have a special twist, because “the Classics have had a hard time, the customer wants something special,” says Lenk. But the price ranges also have to be right, especially for trousers and knitwear. “Not only can I hang sweaters for 349 or 399 euros in the store, we absolutely have to implement attractive price points.”
Birgit Engel, Birgit Engel in Grünwald: “I’m looking for specials – but I also need a solid substructure”
“We have had a great year,” says Birgit Engel, who runs her store in the Munich suburb of Grünwald. But since Omikron made people feel insecure, “you can feel more reluctance again”. So it is fitting that she – since she had already expected another lockdown for December – had the delivery of the first new topics postponed.
For spring, she initially ordered casual topics, but then “I turned around and looked for specialties,” says Engel. In particular, she focused on jackets, trousers and dresses, because last summer showed that “women immediately feel like wearing dresses and want to make themselves chic” as soon as they can go out again. In the early autumn it was then in particular jackets that were missing.
She is also looking for specials for autumn 2022, but not without a corresponding foundation. In addition, “I will reduce the limit in order to be able to react spontaneously,” says Birgit Engel. Does that work in your upscale genre? “I have a couple of manufacturers who have adjusted to current needs,” says Birgit Engel. “I can catch up with that sensationally well.”