Luxury pressures, personal uniforms and American heritage: insights from Lyst

The Lyst Index has become an important indicator of the success and decline of the fashion industry’s leading players. Although the market as a whole is dynamic, Lyst’s recent results suggest some stability in the industry, with some brands consistently staying at the top over longer periods of time.

At the same time, traditional brands are experiencing a new surge in popularity. Large sportswear brands are working specifically to regain relevance.

In an interview with FashionUnited, Katy Lubin, Vice President of Brand at Lyst, talks about the changing preferences of luxury consumers. It also addresses the continued dominance of traditional brands and the opportunities that arise under the leadership of the new parent company Zozo.

The Lyst Index is relatively stable, with some brands consistently staying at the top. What does this say about consumer behavior?

Stability at the top of the Lyst Index typically reflects two aspects. First, these brands have built real relationships with their customers who keep coming back. Second, it suggests more selective consumer behavior.

When customers feel more limited, they tend to narrow their focus. They are experimenting less with new brands and returning to familiar labels. At the same time, they take more time for comparisons and conscious purchasing decisions.

What impact does a change in creative direction have on consumer demand? Does he influence their decisions?

A change in creative leadership can generate attention. However, the reaction of consumers ultimately depends on the product. With a strong creative focus, initial attention manifests itself in increased curiosity, which leads to more search and browsing activity. What matters, however, is whether the product is strong enough to convert interest into a purchase.

Many brands are reflecting on their heritage. Does this reflect consumer demand? Are younger luxury shoppers looking for craftsmanship and identities steeped in history?

Consumers are primarily looking for credibility. Tradition can be an efficient way to convey this, but only if it is expressed through a modern, relevant product.

Younger customers have no aversion to craftsmanship or history. However, they are sensitive to irrelevance. They are interested in tradition when it is conveyed through clear design choices, strong styling and an attitude that fits today’s wardrobe and style codes.

In addition, younger customers want “fewer but better” things. This is reflected in close attention to material, fit, workmanship and quality, as well as low tolerance for unclear or exaggerated pricing. Consumers are more analytical and demanding than some brands give them credit for.

Sports brands like Nike and Adidas are trying to regain momentum. What can you learn from premium brands?

Premium brands tend to be disciplined about when, how and what products they release. It’s harder for sports brands to get noticed with new releases because the market is saturated.

Brands manage this by limiting releases and maintaining a clean, consistent design. This is how customers understand what’s new and why it’s relevant. Sports brands don’t have to try to become luxury brands, but a conscious product and timing strategy can significantly improve perception.

“Quiet Luxury” remains a theme. Which trends could set the tone next year? What drives them?

“Quiet Luxury” is still present. The bigger shift, however, is toward specificity. Consumers are moving away from rigid adoption of trends and instead defining their personal uniform. We observe stronger points of view, conscious styling and bold combinations – personal statements instead of prescribed trends.

A considered purchasing approach reinforces this trend. Purchases must fit into the wardrobe, offer versatility, durability and the feeling of an investment. Tailored clothing, quality basics and statement accessories are valued as they elevate looks without being over the top.

Traditional US brands such as Gap, AEO and Ralph Lauren are experiencing a resurgence. How do they secure their soil?

They focus on the basics: clear products, familiar categories and relevant brand messaging. Many consumers are currently looking for reliability. They want to know what they are buying, how it fits into their lives and why it is worth the money.

Traditional brands rely on discipline and bold steps when they show cultural relevance. Gap’s denim ad with Katseye is an example and is staged in a modern way without losing the brand values. At Ralph Lauren, the reaction to Taylor Swift’s engagement announcement was similar, with familiar brand signals creating an immediate impact.

Cultural relevance is demonstrated through repeated, consistent signals. This allows these brands to develop their own momentum rather than relying on one-off moments.

Do you think brands like Skims, which rely heavily on product and virality, can maintain their momentum in the long term?

Consistency depends on a brand’s ability to convert attention into consistent, recurring demand. Skims has built product credibility. The long-term challenge is to ensure repeat purchases as we grow and scale. This is crucial for any fast-growing brand today.

Current data shows continued pressure on the luxury market. Is there hope on the horizon?

The demand for luxury goods still exists, but it is more selective and conscious. Customers compare, wait and reject impulse purchases. Brands that acknowledge this change and respond with clarity and precision are the ones that will prevail.

Demand is focused on brands with strong identities and clear value. Customers understand exactly what they are paying for. The pressure is greatest in the middle. If the positioning seems unclear, consumers hesitate. Once this hesitation sets in, it becomes much more difficult to approach them again.

Zozo acquired Lyst in early 2025. What opportunities does this create for the growth strategy?

From a brand and product perspective, the most compelling thing about joining Zozo was the shared vision. We want to improve online fashion shopping on a global scale. There is a strong alignment in the way we think about technology and the customer experience.

Lyst has spent more than a decade developing its personalization algorithms. Zozo brings deep expertise in user experience and customer discovery. This offers a real opportunity to learn from each other. It also broadens our perspective on how discovery works globally, given Zozo’s focus on the Japanese market.

Lyst relies on AI-powered discoveries. How does this improve the user and brand experience?

The truth is that most people don’t shop with perfect intention. They tend to have a vague idea: a silhouette, a reference, a color, a feeling. Maybe they saw something on creators, in a runway clip, or in a friend’s Instagram photo. From there they begin their search.

Artificial intelligence helps us interpret user behavior. We can quickly connect them to relevant products from a very large catalog. For brands, this means greater alignment between customer demand and the products shown. Items appear at moments of higher purchase intent and in more relevant contexts.