In June 2016, Miucca Prada, as always ahead of its time, presented a men’s collection full of nods to an outdoor lifestyle – including hiking gear, backpacks and water bottles hanging from practical straps.
A few months later, The Cut magazine’s Jason Chen coined the term ‘gorpcore’ to describe a fashion style that blends streetwear and sportswear with camping and hiking outfit components. The term ‘gorp’ is an acronym for ‘good ol’ raisins and peanuts’, a term that refers to the ‘trail mix’ snack popular with hiking and nature lovers. Gorpcore describes a mixture of functional outerwear, equipment and technical clothing.
Key clothing items in the new trend included puffer coats, jackets and waistcoats, of which The North Face’s ‘Nuptse’ jacket was the undisputed it-piece. Waterproof shells became a must-have staple and Arc’teryx Gore-Tex shell jackets became hugely popular despite the hefty price tag of around $600; Retro-inspired fleece tops like Patagonia’s classic Retro-X fleece and cargo pants like Arc’teryx’s new System_A Paltz pant have all been big sellers.
In early 2019, singer-songwriter Frank Ocean made headlines when he paired an orange jacket from mountaineering brand Mammut with an olive-green patterned Arc’teryx beanie while sitting front row at the Louis Vuitton men’s fashion show. By this time at the latest, Gorpcore, well equipped, had scaled the highest peak of the fashion Olympus.
The merging of classic outdoor brands with high-end labels has resulted in some notable collaborations.
In late 2020, Gucci announced it had teamed up with The North Face. Together they designed a collection of clothing, shoes and luggage inspired by the original North Face styles from the 70’s. Several pieces feature a combined logo that brings together North Face’s three curved lines and Gucci’s green and red web stripe. A year later, the second collaboration came onto the market. In a nod to both brands’ environmental efforts, the line uses Econyl material, a proprietary nylon fabric made from reclaimed materials such as fishing nets. In addition, the down lining used received the certification for the Responsible Down Standard by Control Union.
In late 2021, brand Jil Sander, known for their minimalist approach to high fashion, joined forces with Vancouver-based Arc’teryx. Arc’teryx is a brand loved by outdoor sports enthusiasts and celebrities alike like Drake and Travis Scott. The late Virgil Abloh was also known as a fan.
So gorpcore, which has been around for at least seven years now, is not a new trend, but recent circumstances have shown that it may well be here to stay.
The pandemic has caused people to spend more and more time outside, even in the dead of winter. From walking, jogging or cycling to get some exercise and some fresh air, to queuing on the street for a Covid test, to eating at an al fresco restaurant to safely socialize with others. According to Nylon Magazine, “The Gorpcore aesthetic has evolved and the outdoor industry and new brands are responding with a more inclusive and fashion-forward approach.”
This is also evident in the pre-fall collections, in which Gorpcore styles are reinterpreted in bright colors. Keep an eye out for more versions during the men’s FW22 runway shows – you’re sure to find them.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ