Fashion in the post-Covid era: “First party, then introspection”

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Gucci x The North Face

Trend observer Hilde Francq gives tips on the most important trends every six months. This time the Color Trend Webinar took a look at the post-Covid era. FashionUnited found that Fall/Winter 22/23 will look green, digital, awake and healthy. “Of course, eyes are now on what trends will define the post-Covid era", she says. “Some trend watchers see the hedonism and decadence of the roaring 20’s returning. Revenge dressing and revenge shopping, as we are already seeing in China, is an indication of this. On the other hand, one speaks of the ‘shaky twenties’ – a time characterized by doubt, uncertainty and instability. Finally, the pandemic has taught us to reflect on human place in the world.”

Francq predicts a combination of both scenarios: “First there is a party, then there is time for self-reflection. Sustainability will become a matter of course and companies will have to take responsibility for it themselves. Just think of Hermès, which is known for its high quality leather and now goes for mushroom leather. Adidas introduced Stan Smith Mylo, sneakers with a mycelium sole.”

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Hermès Victoria Bag, made of MycoWorks Fine Mycelium

“During the crisis, Generation Z in particular was hit hard psychologically,” says Francq. “And this at a crucial time in their development. So mental health is definitely an issue. In addition, the ‘woke movement’ is ubiquitous”. She points to well-known American personalities such as Pharrell Williams with his gender-neutral beauty label and Amanda Gorman with her anti-racist inauguration poem for Joe Biden. All these changes were already visible before the crisis, but have been exacerbated by Covid. Francq summarizes them in four themes: wild nature, digital life, a better world and sanity.

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Amanda Gorman. Beeld: Kevin Dietsch / POOL / AFP

AW22 trend: back to the wild

“During the pandemic, we’ve regained our appreciation of nature and realized that being in contact with it contributes to mental health,” Francq said. “Add to that the effects of global warming. There is a loud call for ‘rewilding’, the liberation of nature – just think of the Belgian campaign ‘No mow May’ in Flanders, which calls for no lawns to be mowed in May to protect against insects. A sign within the fashion world is the collaboration between Gucci and the outdoor label The North Face. Alternative materials based on fungi or algae will become mainstream thanks to this trend.”

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Daniel Shea for The North Face x Gucci

AW22 Trend: Digital Life

“Our lives are largely digital, becoming a hybrid between an analogue and digital existence. The first NFT (non-fungible token) of a work of art has already been auctioned off. We can now claim ownership of a unique digital file. This paves the way for virtual clothing. So Nintendo and Net-a-Porter collaborated on a virtual clothing collection for Animal Crossing avatars.”

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Dolce & Gabanna SS21 #DGSicilianPatchwork © Catwalkpictures.com

AW22 Trend: Better World

According to Francq, the most important question is: what did you do today to save the world? “Not only is the impact of a product being measured, an additional contribution must be made. Brands no longer strive for zero waste, but for ‘negative waste’. The upgrading of old textiles or leftovers makes patchwork a trend within this theme – colorful and with a mix of motifs. Brands are looking beyond the environment to appeal to the ‘woke generation’."

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Loovt sweater, image by Loovt.

AW22 Trend: Mental Health

That last theme might be the dominant one, says Francq. “Covid has made health even more important. We are eager to be monitored, tracked and advised. Health has become the new luxury. The focus will also be on a healthy mind, and psychological problems will become normal. In addition, more attention is paid to death. Loovt is already a feel-good brand that wants to break the taboo surrounding the subject of grief with designs such as the cozy sweater. The trend also has a strong influence on architecture. Retailers will choose interiors that convey a sense of security and familiarity,” she concludes.

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