With all the uncertainty that prevails in the world, the fashion industry can use the predictive power of a trend researcher more than ever. This also applies to Jan Agelink and his findings from his seminar for the SS23 season with the title ‘Roleplay’.
Due to the current Corona situation, the Agelink seminar became a purely online version, which does not reduce the speaker’s enthusiasm. The name of the prediction comes from the identity change during the pandemic, Agelink says. “We had a lot of time to think about our role in life.” The realization that clothes play a big role in identity has intensified during this time. “Clothes really do something to you, so you can play a role “, he says. The trend expert adds that identity is what you are and expression is how you want to present yourself. “You can play with it, do role-play games.”
With this in mind, Agelink presents three trends for summer 23, which he summarizes under the titles ‘Joy’, ‘Unease’ and ‘Heal’.
Joy
The first trend is the search for joy in clothes. It was not for nothing that the term “dopamine dressing” was coined during the pandemic: to get dressed to feel joy. That can be done through bright colors and eye-catching prints, and if Agelink has its way, this will still play a role in summer 2023 as well. This topic is about maximalism, “high energy” and a lot of craftsmanship. It could even border on kitsch. Collages made from floral prints are not avoided, and even ceramics serve as a source of inspiration. Fabrics used in this trend are increasingly being given a relief-like shape. This is also reflected in the other sections of the presentation.
Above: Versace SS21, Catwalkpictures.com. Below: Valentino SS21, Catwalkpictures.com.
Unease
The second trend seems to be a backlash against “Joy”. Unease is the predominant feeling of tension and insecurity here. Since the beginning of the pandemic, trend gurus have recognized the need of consumers to protect themselves and to feel safe. The demand for quilted articles is therefore trendy, but is mixed with a Gothic flair, according to Agelink. Remember to add lace and pearls.
In addition, ‘Unease’ shows a “cut and paste” feeling, according to the trend researcher. “The contrasts that are expressed are important.” As an example, he cites the collaboration between Balenciaga and The Simpsons. “It is a combination of the ultimate luxury and ultimate civic life by Homer Simpson.” In the video the fashion house released for its SS22 collection, the animated Simpsons family can be seen experiencing a Balenciaga adventure and actually landing on the catwalk. The fashion house Alexander McQueen is also following this trend, for example with looks that combine denim jackets with leather jackets. “It looks like it was hacked,” he says.
Heal
The third trend is ‘Heal’ and we can all use this healing. For this healing people seek nature and the forms it has made available. A place to take a deep breath. As part of this trend, people are looking for new ways to dye their clothes. Think of natural dyeing methods, but also of dip-dye and placed tie-dye effects, even a gentle degradé can be seen. All in all, the colors in this area are soft and are described by Agelink as watery. The colors are thinner as if they were watercolors.
As mentioned earlier, the relief also plays an important role in this movement. This is more about haptic clothing, clothing that focuses on the senses and the feeling that arises when you wear them. Agelink mentions the ‘Breathe’ collection from McQ as an example, which helps the wearer to build in a moment of calm and breathe deeply.
The return to nature and the inspiration from the structures of nature can also be found here. Think of minerals and corals. Through technical masterpieces such as 3D printing, shapes can be imitated that are similar to these.
Trend researcher Jan Agelink on SS23
In addition to all this knowledge that Agelink was able to pass on during the online seminar, the trend researcher shared another remarkable finding that we do not want to withhold from you. In the past few years, everything in retail has revolved around “online” and “offline”. Agelink now emphasizes that it is actually a different division: fast and slow experiences. Fast offers are about good and fast service, slow offers are about surprising and taking the consumer off guard. “You then get involved in an unconscious love affair with the brand”.
All in all, there is enough to do by summer 2023.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.nl.