As Bape returns to Tokyo, it looks back on 30 years as a streetwear market leader

In the heart of Harajuku, Tokyo’s home of edgy fashion and subcultures, A Bathing Ape – better known as Bape – was born in 1993, a lifestyle brand that promises to see and experience streetwear through the eyes of its already celebrated founder, Tomoaki Nagao or Nigo renew. A die-hard hip-hop fan, Nigo formulated the brand through his own interest in the Japanese music scene and eventually co-founded the label with Shinichiro Nakamura, also known as Sk8thing.

Bape quickly became a household name in the region, known for his graphic clothing and iconic motifs such as the monkey head and camo shark print. It was only in the early 2000s that the brand began to leave the Japanese borders and explore the world, particularly the US, where the leading lights of the US streetwear movement – namely Pharrell Williams – helped Bape’s move into the new market to move forward.

Today, 30 years later, Bape has returned to its roots and the Japanese consumers who have shown a desire for locality. Now under the leadership of Michael Yolkik – who took over the role of creative director following Nigo’s resignation in 2013, the brand celebrated this year with its first-ever Tokyo fashion show, held at the Yoyogi National Stadium Second Gymnasium in its birthplace of Harajuku.

Rakuten’s local brand efforts

In an interview with FashionUnited after an event in New York in June, Bape’s marketing manager said that a show in the ever-changing borough also reflected the changes the brand has experienced since its inception. “We saw these changes as an opportunity for growth, which is why BAPE has been able to continue its brand to this day. “We decided to hold a fashion show to give our fans and newcomers a deeper understanding of what Bape is and what it should be,” it continued.

The event was made possible with the support of “by R”, an initiative of Fashion Week Tokyo (FWT) main sponsor Rakuten, which launched the project to encourage the return of Japanese brands to the event. In announcing Bape’s participation, Rakuten said it aims to broaden Bape’s appeal to more fans inside and outside Japan while further increasing the visibility of Rakuten FWT.

This is also reflected in Bape’s reasoning for participating in the event. When asked what the brand’s motivation was, the marketing representative said: “The impetus for this project came from our empathy with the concept of “by R” from Rakuten’s fashion store, “bringing fashion from Tokyo to the world.” This is the same concept that Bape is pursuing from Harajuku around the world. Participating in “by R” is a tribute to Bape’s roots and a celebration of its 30th anniversary, as well as a way to promote Japanese fashion culture.”

And the event showed that Bape’s participation was enthusiastically received by an audience made up of both local personalities and industry insiders. Everyone sat at the top of a circular catwalk, lit from all sides and accompanied by a soundtrack of flutes and Japanese taiko drums. This heralded the arrival of a stream of models who presented a total of 82 looks, each intended to represent an “interpretation of the new frontier of street style,” as the show’s description put it.

The main brand Bape, Aape and Apee are in the spotlight

First shown on the runway was Bape’s mainline, with the brand’s signature styles taking center stage, albeit in an updated form. While many of the pieces in the streetwear-centric cascade leaned into classic Bape motifs like bold graphics and sporty monograms, others went glossier, with garments crafted from shiny materials that were a clear departure from the brand’s signature varsity style. However, Bape didn’t stray too far from this aesthetic, as demonstrated by the second phase of the show, which introduced the Aape youth line.

Here, hip-hop, sports and college clothing were clearly combined in looks that were reminiscent of the clothing of American football, baseball and basketball. This was followed by Apee, the brand’s line for young women, which once again moved away from character and embraced Y2K femininity through miniskirts, corsets and crop tops. The show was rounded off with a parade of the brand’s shark mascot, ‘Baby Milo’, who took on human form. Two-piece suits featuring the signature shark head hoodie, complete with oversized hoods and inflatable wings, reminded viewers of Bape’s roots.

Collaboration, another essential element of the Bape identity, could not be missing from this collection. In a nod to contemporary culture, the brand turned to MSCHF to deliver a handful of its viral “Astro Boy Boots” – shoes that had caused a stir on social media for their cartoonish shape – but this time with a bape camo finish. Print. The brand’s marketing manager reiterated the importance of the collaboration for Bape, stating: “Over the last 30 years, Bape has become a globally recognized brand, valued for its unique designs and diverse collaborations with brands and artists. The show also featured boots and other items, and the Japanese-inspired music and stage show could also be considered a collaboration.”

Bape connects with communities worldwide

Now Bape hopes to further expand its presence in both the Japanese and international markets and leverage the success of fashion week to maintain viewer interest. These efforts are strengthened by the fact that the markets in Japan and the West are becoming less divergent, as noted by the Bape representative, who said that the proliferation of fashion media and SNS are responsible for these shifts.

Joining the FWT program will also build on the brand’s relationship with Rakuten, which will partner with Bape on limited edition merchandise and a shared strategy to leverage both of their strengths. “We believe that Rakuten’s established e-commerce platform will enable Bape to expand its reach among consumers, while Rakuten will have a mutually beneficial impact by partnering with one of the industry’s most recognized and innovative brands,” commented a Bape representative.

When asked what we can expect from BAPE in the near future, they concluded: “We will continue to passionately push the boundaries of different cultures with endless ideas. As an influential lifestyle brand, we will continue to expand our channels and reach communities worldwide.”

This translated article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk.