«Un medieval dream on the slopes of a hill at the gates of the wildest mountain massif in central Italy ». So the German writer Kasimir Edschmid described L’Aquila in his travel book Italien: Hirten, Helden und Jahrtausende (1941). A dream abruptly interrupted on the night of April 6, 2009 by the tragic earthquake that in L’Aquila and surroundings pulverized lives and things.
Sixteen years later, most of the city is reconstructed. Fresh from restoration, the buildings of the historic center exhibit a nail polish that had been lost over time. Other buildings are veiled by the scaffolding of the construction sites in progress. Some construction, protected by caged, is in ruins, with the walls marked by cracks and crumbled windows.
If in the heart of the city there are restaurants, shops, bars, hotels, bed & breakfasts, it is due to the strong identity spirit of the Aquilanipowerful antidote to damage caused by the earthquake. L’Aquila reborn. It is not that of the “first”, immortalized by the 1995 shots by Gianni Berengo Gardin (published in the volume L’Aquila) and left behind the post -earthquake experienced by the displaced people, the labyrinth of deserted streets, dotted, closed to the passage, wounds of the urban landscape testified by the photographic volume L’Aquila before and after, same shots, same author.
L’Aquila, Rocca Calascio. Photo by Anna Maria d’Urso
L’Aquila Capital of Culture 2026
From cordoned city, off limits, to proud capital of culture 2026, L’Aquila focuses on the enhancement of the territory and cultural, artistic and natural heritage. Without forgetting the quality cellars: in recent years in L’Aquila there has been a true wine -growing Renaissance, with the rise of the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, a rosé of character. Enclosed by its circle of Monti, the capital of Abruzzo has, in addition to magnificent monuments, those characters of uniqueness and authenticity which, unfortunately, are moving into our cities of art whose beauty is blurred by the Overurism. Majestic, on a steep cordoned road in stone and bricks, it rises The Basilica of San Bernardino, among the most beautiful churches in the historic center. The vault of the central nave covered with a sumptuous gilded wood ceiling, the Mausoleum of San Bernardino, in a raised chapel compared to the church floor, and the large white terracotta altarpace enamelled on Andrea della Robbia’s background.
The basement of San Bernardino da Siena, in L’Aquila. Courtesy Abruzzo Region.
The ritual of the “Stuuscio” in L’Aquila
The eagle discovers without haste, along its ups and downs, walking like the inhabitants along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, from Piazza Duomo to the bright fountain (1934, work by Nicola D’Antino). The “stripe” is a ritual, we meet in front of the residence facades such as Palazzo Cipolloni-Cenella or Palazzo Cappa Cappelli, two of the offices that, last May, hosted the first edition of Vinoruman event organized by the Consortium Protection of Abruzzo wine with tastings of Cerasuolo, Pecorino, Trebbiano and Master Class in the most beautiful courtyards of the city.
In the capital of forgiveness
The pomp of churches and noble palaces reveals pages of history. The strategic position in the heart of Italy has allowed L’Aquila to earn, over the centuries, political, economic, religious and cultural centrality, whose traces are read in the great artistic heritage and in the rites such as the Celestinian forgiveness, the perpetual plenary indulgence that Celestino V granted To all the faithful in 1294, then transformed by Bonifacio VIII into the Jubilee. The opening of the Holy Door, monumental portal on the left wall of the Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio: the ceremony repeats itself Every year on August 28, during the Vespers. The door remains open for 24 hoursup to the Vespers of 29 August, allowing the faithful to obtain indulgence (fordonanzacelestiniana.it).
Here is the church of the Pope resigning
The facade in white and pink stone is exceeded, with three carved rosets and as many portals with concentric arches, The interior of the Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio hosts the remains of the Pope resigning Celestino V, “the one who made the great refusal for Viltade” placed by Dante Alighieri among the Ignavi and rehabilitated in 2022 by Pope Francis with these words: «We erroneously remember the figure of Celestino V as” the one who made the great refusal “, according to Dante’s expression in the Divine comedy; But Celestino V was not the man of the “no”, he was the man of the “yes”, a courageous witness of Gospelbecause no logic of power was able to imprison him and manage it ».
The Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio, in L’Aquila. Photo by Matteo Ciommi.
A mammoth lives in the castle
The Forte Spanish, also called the sixteenth -century castle, in L’Aquila. Photo by Anna Maria d’Urso.
Not far from the bright fountain stands the Strong Spanish, that is, the sixteenth -century castle, equipped with moat and four imposing bastions, wanted by the emperor Charles V of Habsburg, whose total reopening to the public is highly awaited. Evicted by the earthquake, the Munda, the National Museum of Abruzzo will return here (MuseonationalDabruzzo.cultura.gov.it) since 2016 provisionally set up of the former slaughterhouse. Instead, the imposing mammoth skeleton with a single zanna never moved from the castlefossil found in 1954 buried by sand and clay in Madonna della Strada in the municipality of Scoppito (L’Aquila).
The mammoth kept in the Forte Spanish of L’Aquila. Photo by Ivan Masciovecchio.
The Foundation of L’Aquila? It is mythical
The Fontana delle 99 Cannelle (1272), emblem of the city deserves a stop: According to tradition, the cinnamon would represent the ninety -nine castles of the district which, in the thirteenth, contributed to the foundation of L’Aquila. The cinnamon mark the perimeter of the large stone trapeze on a lowered plane. A few steps from the 99 -canelle fountain, The visit of the Munda, the National Museum of Abruzzo is worth the visit (MuseonationalDabruzzo.cultura.gov.it) in via Tancredi da Pentima (former slaughterhouse) with theExceptional collection of medieval Madonnesome recovered between the rubble of the earthquake and restored. The cultural relaunch of the city also passes through the initiatives of Maxxi L’Aquila (maxxilaquila.art) New center of contemporaneity at Palazzo Ardinghelli.
The Far West … of Italy
In the surroundings of L’Aquila A spectacular panorama with primordial charm, opens up to the gaze. Perfect background that made the rag to the spaghetti-western of the 70s with Bud Spencer and Terence Hill, The territory alternates canyons, meadows, castles, rocche, and imposing karst plateaus as a emperor field. «Campo Emperor could very well be Tibet. It resembles the plain of Phari-Dzong, on the road between India and Lhasa »wrote Fosco Maraini.
Discovering the villages of Abruzzo
A glimpse of the Borgo di Santo Stefano di Sessanio with its Medici tower. Photo by Anna Maria d’Urso.
In the medieval village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio The entrepreneur Daniele Kihlgren founded Sexant (sexantiio.it) transforming the whole country into a “widespread hotel” thanks to the philological restoration of a place emptied by immigration and gone inexorably ruined before this conservative recovery. From Santo Stefano di Sessanio, trekking lovers can take a path that, crossing the wild farmhouse, in about an hour leads to Rocca Calascio (1500 meters).
On the fortress of Ladyhawke
Aerial view of Rocca Calascio and the octagonal church of Santa Maria della Pietà. Courtesy Abruzzo Region.
The medieval charm that wraps Rocca Calascio is powerful. Fortified tower in the Gran Sasso National Park, dominates the Tirino Valley and the Navelli plateau and seems to arise naturally from the rock. Rocca Calascio, “modified” with the addition of a scenography of crowns to the towers, It was one of the fantasy sets Ladyhawke (1985). A landscape that squested the great cinema: Ridley Scott has just finished shooting some scenes of his expected science fiction film in Abruzzo The Dog Starsadaptation of Peter Heller’s post-apocalyptic novel.
Immersed in the landscape of the Valle dell’Aterno, a few kilometers from L’Aquila, the ancient city of Amaternum is one of the archaeological pearls of Abruzzo. Founded by the Sabines and subsequently Romanized in 293 BC, it was a strategic and flourishing center, home of the historic Sallustio and crossroads between Rome, the Adriatic and Campania. Advice? After the suggestions of the Archaeological Park of Amsternum, with its amphitheater and the Roman theater, continue the journey by making you guided by the desire of the moment, improvising itineraries, perhaps led by a tower spotted along the road, or by a distant castle. Follow the directions with the names of other magnificent villages set in the greenery: Capestrano, Castel del Monte, Navelli … Abruzzo and its inhabitants will remain impressed in your heart.
Photo by Anna Maria d’Urso.
Where to sleep in L’Aquila
Geneva Boutique Roomsvia degli Scardassieri, 32, L’Aquila. In the heart of the historic center, a comfortable and silent hotel widespread with rooms a different from the other in a historic building. Breakfast is treated. GenevaBoutiqurooms.com
Where to eat
The ancient wallsViale XXV April 2, L’Aquila. Historical tavern with bric-à-brac decorations and, on the menu, the dishes of the traditional Abruzzo. Excellent lentil soup, spelled and chicory.
ElodyCorso Vittorio Emanuele II, 9, L’Aquila. Elegant and welcoming restaurant inside Palazzo Cipolloni-Cenella.
La Bottega da MarcelloPiazza Duomo, 27, L’Aquila. Taglieri with excellent cured meats and local cheeses, served with focaccia.
Shopping
Colacchi libraryCorso Vittorio Emanuele II, 5, L’Aquila. The cultural reference of the city, where to find guides and art books on the Abruzzo region.
Agricultural shopPiazza Medicea, 19, Santo Stefano di Sessanio (L’Aquila). Lentils mignon, spelled and flour produced by the Ciarrocca company.
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