The biannual Swedish Fashion Week has come to an end, giving the rest of the industry food for thought as it shed light on important issues surrounding sustainability and the way we look at fashion.
Much of the work featured at this year’s Stockholm Fashion Week (SFW) revolved around slow, thoughtful production and circular economy, with many brands embracing concepts of reuse and innovative business models. Some brands moved outside of the typical structures of the fashion industry and offered new approaches to appeal to modern shoppers, while others looked to new talent for their exhibits. Emerging names have stood alongside those of more established brands that have become fixtures on the Scandinavian calendar, many of which have helped define the clean, quality aesthetic of the region’s fashion scene.
FashionUnited has traced some of the most notable elements of Stockholm Fashion Week, from supporting emerging fashion designers to their ability to disrupt fast fashion production.
Reuse: circular fashion and recycling
As expected, the idea of sustainability was present throughout the event, with many brands presenting innovative circular concepts as part of their presentations. Recently launched app Popswap was among those looking to promote a greener fashion system, and pitched their concept during a ‘Swap’ cocktail event. In addition to a panel discussion in which the app’s founder, Lin Kowalska, a sustainability manager from H&M and fashion influencer discussed circular fashion, visitors could take part in a clothing swap with other participants – a physical version of the app concept. According to the company, a total of 600 items of clothing were exchanged during the event, with each item being tracked in the app.
“Fashion is like a global language – no matter where we are, our clothes always tell a story about who we are – and like a language, fashion is constantly changing. Popswap’s experience during SFW was an excellent example of how we can work together to create a world where fashion is circular,” said Kowalska in a statement provided to FashionUnited after the event.
Remake Stockholm was also at the forefront of sustainable fashion with a range of totally unique garments made from materials donated to the Stockholm City Mission, a social cause of the brand. Crafted in the label’s on-site atelier, the designs depended on the accessibility of materials and what else was possible, resulting in patchwork pieces and a playful mix of texture and colour.
Giving: emerging designers and support
Beckmans College of Design has become an integral part of SFW as it continues to nurture its students through this influential platform. For the FW22 season, 12 up-and-coming designers created personal collections based on one of six well-known fashion brands as part of the ‘Hommage by Beckmans’ project. The result was contemporary high fashion looks that took up the influences of fashion tradition in an individual way.
Tech start-up National Outfit Manufacturing Services (NOMS) also put up-and-coming designers at the forefront of its digital showcase, where it unveiled its first collection, ‘Beta’. A denim and kimono set and t-shirt program are part of the company’s on-demand ordering system, which draws on a network of micro-factories. This new way of experiencing fashion is in line with the increasing demand for local production and the decentralization of high-priced mass-produced goods.
“We look at the design process from an organic perspective. The materials are determined by the current supply in the form of leftover fabrics that we source worldwide. There will be everything from functional garments to more advanced and expressive pieces,” said the company’s co-founder and creative director, Rodrigo Gutierrez Benavente, in a statement.
Restoring gender norms and fashion structures
Many Swedish brands took the opportunity to make a mark for gender-neutral fashion, such as Stand Studio, which presented its non-binary collections. The design house presented a “cross-generational wardrobe that transcends traditional gender boundaries,” according to a statement accompanying the collection. It sought to bring both retro and standard pieces to life through youthful undertones, offering reimagined fur coats, puffer coats and automobile coats in playful, eye-catching designs.
While some wanted to break with social norms, others tried to do so with the typical structures of the fashion industry. Singular Society was one of those who presented an alternative to fast fashion with their subscription concept.
“Singular Society is founded on the idea of offering products as a service through a membership that provides access to uncompromised livelihoods – at the price of what they cost to produce,” reads a letter from the brand.
In an online and offline presentation, the brand’s co-founders, Eric and Daniel, spoke about the membership concept and what it means for the fashion industry at large. Attendees were able to get to know the company at an exclusive event, where they gained further insight into Singular Society’s high-quality products and local services.
Return: familiar names and faces
In addition to a handful of up-and-coming brands and independent designers, the SFW also welcomed its regular guests and established labels again. Filippa K returned as one of the main protagonists of the event, presenting a collection inspired by Scandinavian winters. The brand’s signature minimalist design has been paired with exaggerated silhouettes and glittering sequin detailing and presented in both the men’s and women’s collections. It was the first collection to feature Filippa K’s updated logo and the last before the brand will welcome Liisa Kessler as its new creative director.
H&M was also present at the event, presenting its latest H&M Studio collection for the SS22 season on the catwalk, while the company had previously been working on immersive experiences and collaborations. The looks were influenced by Gen Z style icons and retro fashion eras, resulting in eclectic designs, bright colors and bold accessories. According to a statement from the retailer, a large part of the collection has been developed from recycled materials to further support the sustainability philosophy that the company upholds with its capsule collections.
This translated article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk.