Copenhagen Fashion Week is known for promoting sustainability and nurturing emerging Scandinavian talent, and the Autumn-Winter 2022 edition was no different.
Over the years the Danish capital has spawned homegrown designers such as Stine Goya, By Malene Birger and Ganni who have become internationally recognized names, and more recently Danish upcycling brand (Di)vision, the conceptual knitwear label by A. Roege Hove and the label Louise Lyngh Bjerregaard, which blurs the lines between ready-to-wear and couture.
The Fall-Winter 2022 shows showcased a new squad of emerging design talent – led by Swedish designer Jade Cropper, who stunned with her Y2K aesthetic and sustainable practices, and Copenhagen-based company Kerne.milk, which already counts Kim Kardashian among its fans . Tomorrow Denim, the first denim brand in the world to be certified by both the Nordic Swan Ecolabel and the EU Ecolabel, is also one of the newcomers at Copenhagen Fashion Week.
jade cropper
Designer Jade Cropper made her catwalk debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week A/W 2022 with the support of Swedish Moderat’s Swedish Fashion Talents support programme. Cropper is one of many up-and-coming fashion creators at the Scandinavian fair, challenging current industry standards and highlighting more sustainable methods. Their autumn-winter collection was made exclusively from fabric waste and recycled materials.
The ‘0002’ collection builds on the designer’s debut collection and explores the swimwear approach where tops can double as everyday wear. The designer is also “fascinated” by asymmetrical, feminine and versatile designs of dresses and tops. The result is a sensual and feminine collection that is casual yet glamorous with high slits, cut-out details, sheer fabrics, vintage denim and motorcycle leather looks.
All of the looks featured at the runway show were created by the designer herself in her Stockholm atelier – from sourcing, to prints, to finished design, from everyday looks to sequined evening dresses.
Cropper, who graduated from Beckman’s College of Design in Stockholm, Sweden, has impressed press and retailers alike – not only because of her Y2K aesthetic, but also because of the way she uses recycled materials. To further promote sustainable fashion, Cropper has also developed a direct-to-consumer model for her fashion label, based on microdrops, consistent with her mission to shift away from fast fashion.
Commenting on her runway debut, Founder and Creative Director Cropper said, “This is the first time people have been able to experience the full Jade Cropper universe. This is a huge thing for me, and what’s even more exciting is the fact that this is just the beginning.”
kernels.milk
Independent Copenhagen-based company Kerne.milk was founded in 2019 by designer Marie Mark. Mark currently runs the label alongside co-creative director Katrina Anne Wittig. The company follows a philosophy of minimal waste, using leftover fabrics from the production chain to create one-of-a-kind pieces and future collections.
The up-and-coming womenswear brand creates feminine and dance-inspired pieces that flatter curves. The label has already caught the eye of Kim Kardashian, who posted a selfie on Instagram last year wearing the brand’s Paloma dress.
Kerne.milk made its debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week with a playful and colorful collection that explores the movement of the body. Highlights include off-the-shoulder pieces with oversized and colorful buttons, cut-out details, bodycon dresses, intricate patterns and mini-skirts with side ties.
“Our vision lies in our garments,” writes the label on its website. “We are determined to contribute to a more sustainable future by making high quality garments that last longer. We firmly believe in upcycling. By breathing new life into materials that already exist, we try to reuse forgotten quality materials and create durable items.”
Tomorrow denim
Founded in Copenhagen in 2018, Tomorrow Denim has placed itself at the forefront of sustainable denim creations, focusing on well-crafted denim fits and washes. The label wants to prove that great style and a sustainable mindset can go hand in hand.
Inspired by Scandinavian minimalism, the Denmark-based label creates jeans that flatter the female body while remaining comfortable. In addition, Tomorrow Denim transforms classic workwear details or heavy denim into slim silhouettes and elegant denimwear.
With its well-made jeans, the label was nominated as a finalist for the Zalando Sustainability Award 2022 at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Ultimately, however, the award was won by him Danish menswear label Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen. Although Tomorrow Denim didn’t win, the brand impressed the judges with its commitment to sustainability. This commitment is particularly evident in the fact that Tommorrow Denim creations are certified with both the Nordic Swan Ecolabel and the EU Ecolabel.
For the Fall-Winter 2022 season, Tomorrow Denim has dedicated its collection “to all the courageous people who tirelessly fight for more solidarity and harmony in the world, regardless of their personal sacrifices”. This dedication has been expressed with denim pieces designed to empower and liberate. The label transformed what was considered basic denim into statement pieces – like plunging collar shirts, fringed mini skirts, utility pocket jumpsuits and wide, flared jeans inspired by the ’70s and ’90s.
Tomorrow Denim’s commitment to zero waste was also evident in the brand’s upcycled styles and patchwork pieces, designed to ensure no excess fabric is wasted.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ