What was intended to be only the last campaign of Zara Atelier dedicated to the collection 04 The Jacket – specifically, a focus on the jacket, reinterpreted in different styles by the low-cost brand for the season – was branded above all because of the props used. The aim, that of exalting the jackets, took a back seat: what caught the public’s attention were rather the statues of human bodies wrapped in transparent films similar to shrouds.
The “Zadar-Gaza” campaign in the crosshairs
The photographer’s emblazoned signature could do nothing Tim Walkernor the extraordinary participation of the model Kristen McMenamy: so much so that the Spanish brand removed the images from its site, just a few hours after the launch, the December 7. A practice due to the constant updating of contents or a consequence of the wave of protests against what has been interpreted as a disrespect for the victims of the conflict? Everything leads one to think that it is precisely the second hypothesis.
In fact, the press release issued together with the images speaks of «a pillar of the wardrobe worn» – the jacket, precisely – described as «a series of extraordinary pieces, each of which acts as a prism through which mood and singular attitude of the wearer are amplified and revealed.” Inditex company leaders were keen to point out that the campaign Zadar-Gaza – as it has now become popular on social media – was conceived last July and taken in September 2023therefore before the outbreak of the terrorist attacks.
A shot from the “indicted” Zara Atelier 04 campaign (Photo: Zara).
The response to Zara’s accusations
Entrusted to a social communication, the official explanation: «the campaign presents a series of images of unfinished sculptures inside a sculptor’s studio. It was created with the sole purpose of presenting handcrafted clothing in an artistic context.” “Unfortunately some customers felt offended from these images, now removed, and saw in them something very far from their intention. The Zara group regrets the misunderstanding and reaffirms its respect towards everyone».
It is not the first time that a fashion advertisement has ended up in the crosshairs of controversy. The motivations, the most varied, linked to current events, cultural appropriation, propaganda or debated issues. Going back in time, it is impossible not to mention him scandal caused by the Balenciaga campaign taken by Gabriele Galimberti and accused of child pornography: in December 2022, Demna and his fashion house ended up at the center of controversy due to the setting of theChristmas adv of the Maison, where some children posed together with soft toys that recalled fetish practices.
From Balenciaga’s children to Valentino’s naked man
A short time later, the campaign Balenciaga Spring 2023 was accused for the same reasons: here appeared on a table a page from a 2008 ruling by the United States Supreme Court on child pornography. At the time, even the No. 1 fan Kim Kardashian she proved to be dumbfounded. And the Maison’s explanation that the Garde-Robe Spring 2023 had been taken months before the Christmas advert, in the middle of Spring 2022.
A shot from the Balenciaga Garde-Robe Spring 2023 campaign accused of child pornography (Photo: Balenciaga).
In short, if the details relating to the shots and the creation of the “incriminated” campaigns are known only to professionals, audiences only rely on what they see. And if the intentions could be discussed for days, the dysfunction between vehicle and message it’s really the only one obvious theme. Just think of the others, illustrious precedents of fashion campaigns that ended in controversy: some still remember the one dating back to April 2021, with the naked model of Valentinedressed only in a bag – the bag Roman Studprotagonist of the advertisement.
The shot with Michael Bailey-Gates, with a gender fluid approach, had sparked controversy: “After publishing the photo many people reacted with comments full of hate and aggression” he commented on Instagram at the time Pierpaolo Piccioli. «My job is to provide my vision of beauty based on the times we are living in, and what we consider beautiful is a reflection of our values».
Old fashion campaigns in the crosshairs (by Diet Prada)
Too avant-garde message for customers? Certainly, social media does its part to fuel the discussion. It is impossible to forget the cases that first made the condemnation of fashion advertising popular, such as that of Dolce&Gabbana: it was the end of 2018, and three commercials intended for the Chinese market were judged disrespectful and stereotyped, based on alleged racial preconceptions.
The result, the stylists’ heartfelt apologies, a canceled show in Sahngai, a social and diplomatic storm, hacked profiles, and the final cause. The account launched the accusation against the designer duo Diet Pradawhich had already previously raised some controversy against a collection of gift key ring Prada judged racist towards the African American community.
In the battle between brands and audiences, social media wins
Although the account is more cautious today, after being defeated in court – just think of the lawsuit with Strip the News – history, with or without the participation of the creation of Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler, repeats itself. Always around Christmasalways shrouded in mystery, and with the same danger: the threat of boycott by consumers. On the one hand the conception of advertising messages so disconnected from reality to be transformed, on the contrary, into direct targets for the public; on the other one use of social networks increasingly rapid and less “reasoned” on the part of the latter. A returning trend that is no longer surprising.