Since its beginnings in a Kensington car park in 1984, London Fashion Week has changed dramatically. In those early days, when there were already established fashion events in New York, Milan and Paris, British designers, especially those fresh out of school, lacked both the opportunities and the budgets to showcase their collections.
While London is now known as a hotbed of young creative talent, many designers still struggle financially to afford shows or events. Last year, designers such as SS Daley, Robyn Lynch and Dilara Findikoğlu faced financial constraints that led them not to organize shows. Missing from the calendar for the current season are Nensi Dojaka and KWK by Kay Kwok, who are also foregoing shows due to financial constraints. The up-and-coming designer Feben is showing her collection in Milan as part of the Dolce & Camp; Gabbana-sponsored incubator for new talent.
Caroline Rush, the chief executive of London Fashion Week, told research service Euromonitor that the current cost of living crisis is presenting an incredible challenge for young brands. Despite London’s reputation as a hub for creative expression, financial hurdles remain that impact emerging designers’ ability to fully participate in the industry market.
Financial hurdles for London’s young designers remain
With consumer spending declining, many retailers are having to reduce their budgets for acquiring new brands. In the past, online retail platforms such as Net-a-Porter, Matches, Ssense, MyTheresa, Machine-A and department stores such as Selfridges and Harvey Nichols have been central to brands seeking exposure. These platforms served as a gateway for emerging talent and provided designers with visibility and income.
However, the dynamic has changed. The doors to retail outlets are more difficult to open, so many brands have turned to selling directly to consumers. In this changing landscape, the traditional routes to market discovery that were once crucial for emerging designers are no longer as easy to find.
Brands are under increased pressure to achieve high sell-through rates in the second season as retailers, faced with their own financial constraints, are less tolerant of inventory not meeting expectations. The previously common practice of quickly removing brands that do not meet expectations from the range has become more widespread. This represents a major challenge for aspiring fashion designers, as building a sustainable business without the support of wholesalers blocks the path to success. As consumer habits and industry dynamics continue to evolve, the path to establishing a brand and securing its place in the market has become more complex and challenging.
Fashion Scout China
But there are also bright spots. Many brands still see London Fashion Week as a platform for new things. This is one of the reasons why Fashion Scout China, a platform dedicated to promoting Chinese design talent and bringing them to the international stage, returned to the LFW floor this month. In collaboration with Fashion Scout, the platform spotlighted five emerging Chinese talents: AFMN, E7W Studiio, Gorgiya, Ladecente and Chiyue. This event highlighted the importance of showcasing rising stars making their mark in the ever-evolving global fashion scene, while promoting cross-cultural exchange and celebrating innovation.
Dilara Findikoğlu
A temporary exit from the fashion world can have positive effects, as Dilara Findikoğlu clearly demonstrates. Upon her triumphant return to LFW, the designer articulated her vision in the show notes, describing it as a “manifesto for a world order born from a relentless vortex of feminine energy; the creation of a new world through mass ritual”
This creative promise manifested itself in the form of corsetry and deconstructed business attire, with models provocatively touching their faces and moving sinuously. In an unconventional way, the models made direct eye contact with the audience – a departure from usual catwalk etiquette intended to emphasize the overcoming of toxic masculinity.
Findikoğlu’s return to the fashion spotlight highlights the power of a strategic break and conscious reemergence, with her runway presentation serving as a bold commentary on societal norms and a call for transformative change.
Eudon Choi
Resilience was a consistent theme. Designer Eudon Choi paid homage to Pompeii, drawing inspiration from its weathered frescoes and exposed walls. Ultimately, it was an exploration of human vulnerability and the timeless beauty that lies in the resilience of decay.
The collection captured the emotional complexity and dynamic shapes of the ancient city’s vibrant yet decaying remains, using textured materials and muted colors. The designs juxtapose opulent materials and damaged surfaces, creating a poignant interplay of beauty and adversity. The earthy, tonal color palette is reminiscent of the historic murals of Pompeii, and intricate details, sensual silhouettes and sculptural elements evoke the enduring appeal of the city’s remains.
Chet Lo
There were also historical references to Chet Lo, which dates back to the 1970s when farmers in China’s Shaanxi province unearthed the famous Terracotta Army created by Qin Shi Huangdi over 2,000 years ago.
Inspired by the resilience of the army, Chet Lo presented a collection where prickly utopia meets ancient warriors. The brand’s iconic spikes adorn garments including hoodies, skirts and trousers, symbolizing the strength of the Terracotta Army. Lo blends Eastern and Western influences with wool sarong pants and hybrid skirt pants that evoke the silhouette of armor. The color palette is inspired by German artist Gerhard Richter, while the accessories, including handbags and spiked shoes, are created in collaboration with Charles & Keith.
But alongside all the up-and-coming brands, there were also a number of established designers like JW Anderson, Roksanda Ilincic, Simone Rocha, Emilia Wickstead and Dunhill that were equally desirable and wearable.
A new age of British elegance
Dunhill in particular has entered a new age of British elegance. Newly appointed creative director Simon Holloway, who has worked at Ralph Lauren and Agnona and brings a deep understanding of luxury and wardrobe, has breathed contemporary life into the brand, despite it being traditionally known for classic tailoring.
Once a trusted source for cufflinks and men’s accessories, Dunhill is now a bona fide fashion brand, winning best dressed at the BAFTAs this week and at last year’s Met Gala. This makes Dunhill the convincing British counterpart to Italian tailoring brands such as Brioni and Zegna.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk