There was no fine print to suggest that Tom Ford might exit his brand after closing the $2.8 billion deal with Estée Lauder. It was written in no uncertain terms that Ford “will continue to serve as the brand’s creative visionary post-closing and through the end of 2023.”
In more than a year, Ford would then be free to break new ground.
What would Tom Ford look like without Tom Ford?
Ford, a name with worldwide recognition and marketing cachet – perhaps best known for its flamboyant designs – is likely to retire from its 2005 company.
While Estée Lauder has had significant financial success in licensing the company’s beauty division, Ford’s vision is crystal clear in every product category, from packaging to lipstick names and advertising campaigns to the design of the brand’s e-commerce website . A vision that cannot easily be imitated by a licensee or implemented by a new management team. Ford was the critical link between Zegna’s fashion division and Estée Lauder’s cosmetics division, an important link that would be lost with his departure.
When luxury fashion brands are synonymous with their founders and namesakes – from Helmut Lang and Alexander McQueen to Hubert de Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent – the transition almost always comes with obstacles.
The magic of Tom Ford
As for the Tom Ford brand, without Ford’s creative input, its cosmetics division could be easier to run than the fashion brand as it could focus on market expansion, retail relationship deepening and B2C business first. The runway collections and red carpet designs are different, as these were largely shaped by Ford personally.
And yet, it’s the magic that some designers bring to fashion that not only influences the way people dress, but is also a snapshot of the zeitgeist that can rarely be emulated by any company. Of course, an iconic perfume like Nina Ricci’s L’air du Temps has been a profitable product since its launch in the late 1940s, but the company’s fashion division has struggled to stay relevant, having been bought and sold multiple times and losing its flagship brand. close store. When apparel giant PVH bought Calvin Klein, the company benefited from licensing its mid-market denim, underwear and CK ranges, but the mainline faltered, prompting the iconic John Pawson-designed Manhattan flagship to close and finally the luxury business was discontinued.
Hopefully, Tom Ford’s magic will be felt long after he’s gone.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.com.