Louis Vuitton underscored its new strategy for the French luxury house with the appointment of Pharrell Williams as creative director for menswear, replacing Virgil Abloh. With a focus on celebrities, influencers and artists, LVMH is developing a concept to remain the most successful luxury group in the world and to further expand Louis Vuitton’s EUR 20 billion business.
The appointment of an unknown fashion designer could prove less fruitful for Louis Vuitton than for other brands like Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo, which bet on a more understated aesthetic. At Paris Men’s Fashion Week in January, Louis Vuitton presented a multi-faceted, energetic show that, while igniting hype and enthusiasm for the brand, had, according to some, little substance. Understatement and timeless luxury don’t seem to be the cornerstones of the brand’s lexicon.
Williams is no stranger to the fashion industry. He has already launched successful brands and worked with numerous others. However, he has neither formal design training nor technical knowledge – a fact that designers who have followed the path of study and career advancement at various brands will quickly find fault with.
Reach vs. Prominence
The lack of formal education does not seem to be an obstacle at Louis Vuitton. The fashion house has a highly skilled design team. One of the main criticisms of celebrity hires as designers is that they are hired for their marketing potential and reach, rather than for their talent, as has traditionally been the case. Some celebrities may have a knack for fashion, but they rarely have the skills and knowledge to design a collection that strikes a balance between aesthetics, functionality, economy and timeless luxury.
Williams, who rose to fame as one half of the music-producing duo The Neptunes in the early ’90s, has worked with numerous fashion brands and creatives including Adidas, Chanel, G-Star Raw and also Louis Vuitton. He also founded the brands Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream together with the Japanese designer Nigo, which are at least as successful as his music career. Williams is involved in the design process of both brands and his unique sense of style and aesthetics has been instrumental in their success. Nigo is currently creative director at Kenzo, a brand also owned by French luxury goods group LVMH.
In 2004, during Marc Jacobs’ tenure as Louis Vuitton’s creative director, Williams designed a sunglass collection for the brand. He also created jewelry for the fashion house in 2008, collaborating with then-jewelry consultant Camille Miceli.
Streetwear and cultural diversity
Virgil Abloh embarked on a successful streetwear journey at Louis Vuitton, attracting a diverse audience. It’s almost certain that Williams will continue down this path, coupled with the brand’s status as a ‘cultural maison’.
Virgil Abloh’s tenure at Louis Vuitton was a unique success story. With his cultural savvy, Williams could follow a similar path. Still, his appointment is less daring and won’t necessarily rewrite fashion history. Williams’ Rolodex will be useful for collaborating with artists and the streetwear community, and the next few years will be defined by its reputation and momentum. It fits the strategy of new CEO Pietro Beccari, who wants to drive Louis Vuitton’s next phase of growth along an already familiar path.
However, collaborating with celebrities has not always been successful for LVMH. The fashion label Fenty, launched with Rihanna, never really took off and was shelved after less than two years.
This translated and edited post previously appeared on FashionUnited.com.