A few weeks ago, a bag went viral on TikTok. With a knotted handle and what appeared to be a familiar weaving technique, this was apparently Bottega Veneta’s ‘Jodie’ bag. But first impressions were deceptive: it was actually a ‘duplicate’ from retailer Anthropologie, as shown in a video by Tia Allen.
‘Dupes’ has become a popular hashtag on TikTok and already has over 2.3 billion views. The acronym stands for ‘duplicate’ and is widely used among those in the know who are offering, or even searching for, affordable beauty and fashion alternatives to luxury branded products on TikTok.
In many videos, users tout clothing, accessories and even shoes from Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga, but they are rarely real. Counterfeit consumption is increasing among young consumers who, while attracted to luxury’s tremendous marketing power, cannot afford the luxurious prices. Just like Tia Allen, users rate counterfeit or cheaper similar products and provide information on where to find them.
On Instagram, the @dupethat account has 1.2 million followers and provides information on cheaper cosmetic products, as well as reviews and information on where to buy cheap copies.
With the fashion industry trends, the replica market is also evolving. Young people in particular are increasingly accepting the purchase of counterfeits. While buying counterfeit luxury goods used to be taboo, it has become more and more normal in recent years.
Why is it okay in young people’s understanding to buy counterfeit goods?
One reason is the affordability of these items. Luxury brands are often priced out of the reach of young customers, making fake alternatives an attractive option. Young consumers want to look fashionable and trendy but may not have the income to do so. Counterfeit goods offer them an affordable way to emulate their favorite celebrity or influencer.
A report published last year by the European Intellectual Property Office (EUIPO) finds that the willful purchase of counterfeit goods has increased. 37% of young people confirm that they have bought at least one counterfeit product in the last 12 months (up from 14% in 2019). Where the sharing of information in the digital age has created entire communities, the legal ramifications may not be understood, particularly by younger audiences.
Also, luxury brands that target younger generations to encourage them to buy their products are not entirely innocent. Young people are the lifeblood of the beauty and fashion industry and the market is crucial for them to generate revenue and reach. Teens who still live at home and go to school won’t be able to afford a Chanel bag if the original costs 7,000 euros – but the fake can.
Fashion chains like Zara or Anthropologie use the desire that luxury brands generate with their budgets for advertising and influencers for millions of euros, and make their products an alternative to real luxury.
If luxury fashion houses rely mainly on campaigns and influencers instead of conveying values such as craftsmanship and appreciation of fine materials, they need not be surprised if the younger generation settles for a copy touted on TikTok.
This article was published on FashionUnited.com. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ