New showroom, relaunch of Baldessarini, investigation by the EU Commission into Pierre Cardin and fashion show in Paris – there is a lot going on at the Herford-based clothing group Ahlers AG. That’s why FashionUnited asked boss Stella Ahlers: To what extent was the company part of Pierre Cardin’s fashion show, how is the current order round going and what’s up with the investigations into possible violations of EU competition rules?
How is the first round of orders going?
We got off to a very positive start in this round of orders, which will still take a few weeks. First impressions show that Baldessarini’s relaunch worked extremely well and that Baldessarini is again perceived as a “Total Look Brand”.
After opening the shops last year, Pioneer was immediately able to build on the sales figures from before the corona crisis. In this respect, we have had very positive reactions to Pioneer and the new collection.
The new collection by Pierre Cardin is also rated very positively. At the beginning of January, to coincide with the start of the order round, we opened our new showroom in an exclusive location in Düsseldorf’s Medienhafen. The high-quality interior, the modern lounge area and the relaxed working atmosphere with a view of the Rhine are very well received by the customers.
During the pandemic, there has been a lot of talk about changing seasons. How has this process developed so far?
So far not at all. It has always been important to us to ship the right goods at the right time. In discussions with our customers, this approach is expressly praised and we continue on our way. Whoever can deliver first will win. The pandemic has increased the importance of delivery dates.
How is the order volume compared to last year?
We will probably achieve a significant plus with Pierre Cardin and Baldessarini. At Pioneer, too, the order volumes are already higher than in the mirror season.
You work as a licensee for Pierre Cardin. How involved are you with the current plans for the label’s comeback and the collections being shown at Paris Fashion Week?
We are in close contact with the Cardin house in Paris, now run by Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, his great-nephew. We had the great honor of producing all the denim styles for the show for the “Cosmocorps 3022” fashion show in honor of Pierre Cardin at the Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace in Le Bourget in Paris using Cardin’s cuts to be allowed.
Where is the trend going? Which tracks are doing well?
Denim was the clear winner of last season at Pierre Cardin and Pioneer and we took that into account when creating the collection. Highly elastic qualities, great attention to detail, organic cotton, recycled materials and low impact washes and the new capsule collection “Pioneer’s of Tomorrow” stand for clear denim competence. But structures, wool looks and thermo light are also in greater demand again.
Is formalwear becoming more important again?
At Pierre Cardin, formal wear is gaining in importance again for the coming autumn/winter, albeit with a completely new interpretation. Classic rules are broken with the silhouettes, the styles have to work for many different occasions. The big topic here are separated suits and split suits. Patch pockets on the jackets, cargo shapes on the trousers and a variety of checks determine the picture and show innovative suit and combination ideas.
With our premium brand Baldessarini, customers are keen to experiment and everything that is not basic works great. Here, too, ready-made parts are gaining in importance again, albeit with innovative materials and new fits. It’s getting tighter again. A real retro statement piece is, for example, a super-soft, belted, oversized blazer with peaked lapels, which is combined with extra-long, wide, straight-fit trousers or high-quality cotton trousers with a wool look.
Regarding the question about the investigations of the EU Commission, there was no direct answer from Mrs. Ahlers. The group responded with a statement: Ahlers was informed of the opening of an antitrust investigation and the fashion retailer is working with the Commission to enable the facts to be clarified quickly.
More on the subject: EU Commission launches investigation into fashion house Pierre Cardin.
The interview was conducted in written form.