CWhether it is hydrating, rebalancing or anti-aging, the effectiveness of a cosmetic is closely linked to its bioavailability of the active ingredients contained in its formulation. «Bioavailability refers to how the active agent is delivered intact into the deep skin structures» explains the cosmetologist Umberto Borellini, SICC member (Italian Society of Chemistry and Cosmetological Sciences). Let’s discover with the expert how cosmetic science enhances the effectiveness of skincare molecules.
Skincare that works? The bioavailable one
The skin is an organ that functions like a wall, which protects the body from harmful external agents. «It also represents a shield with respect to the beneficial substances contained in cosmetic products, and one of the most challenging efforts of cosmetic product formulators consists in enhance the deep penetration capacity of healing molecules», explains Umberto Borellini.
The attention of the formulators is, therefore, concentrated on identifying the ideal form of the ingredients, with a dual purpose: facilitate their “entry” into depth and, once you reach the destination, carry out the healing services. But not only. «It is also important that the molecules arrive intact where they are needed. A further barrier, in fact, is represented by the stratum corneum and the hydrolipidic film, which can destroy or break them down, making them ineffective”, specifies the cosmetologist.
The micro-transporters of skincare molecules
The first method developed by formulators to enhance the penetration capacity is represented by phospholipid vesicles, called liposomes. «These are tiny hollow spheres, iwhose internal space is used to accommodate the active ingredient and transport it into depth», explains Umberto Borellini. «Their surface is double, with the outer layer being particularly slippery. Thanks also to this characteristic, the transit of the beneficial molecules inserted into their nucleus is facilitated.”
Liposomal technology is not the only carrier used in cosmetics. «The vesicles can also be composed of other substances capable of encapsulating the active ingredients within them with the aim of promoting their absorption. Among these there are some types of algae and the cyclodextrinsparticular oligosaccharides that encapsulate the cosmetic agent, releasing it in a slow and prolonged way.”
Technologies that help formulas go in depth
To promote the absorption of cosmetic ingredients, special techniques are also used that reduce their dimensionsthe. «Research in this area is continuous, and when we talk about prilling or of micro-fluidification technologyfor example, refers to increasingly advanced methods that act by drastically reducing the size of the healing assets. It should be remembered that, without this type of processing of raw materials, ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and collagen, for example, characterized by large diameters, could not be absorbed”, explains Borellini.
Bio-fermentation
The fermented ingredients are the result of a precise procedure, aimed at fragmenting beneficial molecules. «Bio-fermentation is a chemical process, which starts by adding micro-organisms, obtained from yeasts, to a plant-derived ingredient”, explains Umberto Borellini. «The added micro-organisms break up and reduce the size of each component of the vegetable subjected to fermentation. Thanks to this process, every active molecule is broken down, thus becoming easily absorbable.”
Help from a basic beauty routine gesture
Regardless of the substance used to facilitate the absorption of a skin healing molecule, or the method that reduces it into micro-fragments to enhance its penetration, there is a basic gesture that always improves the performance of cosmetics.
«The fundamental gesture which increases the bioavailability of the ingredients contained in every quality skincare product it’s cleansingto be repeated daily morning and evening”, concludes the cosmetologist.
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