The Spring/Summer 2024 season is in full swing, and London Fashion Week, which takes place from September 15th to 19th, is fast approaching.
What makes this season truly special for the British fashion capital is the event’s renewed vision and mission, outlined by the British Fashion Council (BFC) ahead of Mens’ Fashion Week in June 2023, as a program with just six designers left the industry perplexed. However, the hybrid format was a conscious decision and marks the start of a “transition period” which will see the BFC refocus on local talent to strengthen the UK industry.
Additionally, in June it was announced that the UK government would support fashion week as part of its package of measures for the creative industries. The organization will receive £2 million in recognition of the region’s “outstanding achievements in hosting international events.” The program will support fashion week from 2023 to 2025 and allow the BFC to “amplify” the work of the UK fashion industry.
Up-and-coming designers set the tone
These efforts can already be seen for SS24. The majority of the program is packed with new names and emerging talent. This is also reflected in the numerous debuts that will be shown in London this season. These include Eirinn Hayhow, Pīferi, Spencer Badu and SRVC. Holzweiler is another brand stepping into the spotlight at London Fashion Week for the first time, swapping its usual home of Copenhagen for an international platform.
As always, the BFC NewGen talent development program will support emerging names. Now celebrating its 30th anniversary, the initiative returns to The Old Selfridges showrooms where a number of participating designers will present their collections, including Chet Lo, Conner Ives, Feben and Helen Kirkum. This year, LVMH Prize finalist Aaron Esh and Kerala-born designer Harri, who caused a stir with his inflatable latex dresses, are also making their NewGen debuts.
Fashion East, another London talent incubator, is once again preparing to give emerging designers a stage with a standalone showcase. Olly Shinder from Central Saint Martins University will make his debut, as will Johanna Parv, who returns after her AW23 show where she presented a functional take on couture. Michael Stewart’s Standing Ground will be another Fashion East attendee offering a futuristic perspective on luxury.
Regular guests and fashion veterans attract the attention of the industry
While it’s clear that the focus this season will be on emerging names, the program is still peppered with a number of regulars who are sure to draw in the crowds during fashion week. They include JW Anderson, Erdem, Eudon Choi, Roksanda, Richard Quinn and Simone Rocha as well as Burberry, where Daniel Lee will return with his largest collection to date for the traditional house.
A handful of celebrated returning guests are also on the program. This year’s BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund winner, 16 Arlington, is one of them. The label, founded by Marco Capaldo and the late Federica ‘Kikka’ Cavenati, received the £150,000 prize and mentoring opportunities to support the business earlier this year. Supriya Lele and Ashish will also return to London with their shows on Monday after a short break in previous seasons.
Other notable events during the week include the UK debut of Mains, a brand founded by Skepta. The British-Nigerian grime artist will bring the brand back to life in an unscheduled show on September 16, with the collection designed by both himself and Mains’ new head designer Mikey Pearce. The brand fell into a four-year hibernation after its launch in 2017. Teasers of a new collection were recently spotted on the star, who was spotted at Wimbledon and Silverstone wearing new designs.
It will also be interesting to see what industry veteran Stuart Trevor has to offer. The founder and former CEO of AllSaints announced that he will be launching a new eponymous brand during fashion week to “prove that you can build a clothing brand that doesn’t make clothes.” The pieces in the collection are said to incorporate a range of circular techniques that follow the “less is more” idea. T-shirts and hoodies made from recycled cotton have already been teased on the brand’s Instagram.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk