Lhe Sicily is a region that encompasses many, seeing it in a single trip is impossible, so if you only have two days available it is good to choose your stops carefully. The Scicli area, famous for the Baroque and made even more famous thanks to Commissioner Montalbanooffers ideas and riches for all tastes.
View of Scicli from above. Here are many of the places of television Inspector Montalbano. (Getty Images)
From the splendor of the churches, to the locations of the most loved TV dramas to a great gastronomic and wine offer, why here the only DOCG wine of Sicily is born and grows: the Cerasuolo di Vittoriaa nectar to be discovered in combination with fish and land dishes.
Scicli, not just Montalbano
More and more visitors to Scicli run to see first the Montalbano police station, his desk and the quaestor’s terrace. Now permanent sets within the city hall, a magnificent former convent that can be visited thanks to the Cooperative Action run by disabled children. But once the homages have been paid to Camilleri’s great imagination, which has found a real transposition in some places in this town, there are at least 5 other things that you absolutely must not miss in Scicli.
The warrior lady
Entering the Mother Church of Scicli, immediately on the left, one cannot fail to be amazed by the statue of the Madonna on horseback: a warrior wearing a real hair wigex voto of the city population who invoked it at the time of the Normans against the Saracens, and that with his white horse he crushes the bodies and heads of his enemies. A powerful figure who is still celebrated todaylast Sunday in May when you reenact the episode with a big party where you eat a typical dessert called “Turkish head”. An immense puff in the shape of a Saracen hat.
In the same church, next to the statue there is also the painting of the Madonna of the militia, recovered from the ancient church which collapsed during the earthquake of 1693. And here you can also pay homage to the urn of San Guglielmo, patron saint of the city together with the Madonna delle Milizie. His bones carried around the city protect the population from epidemics and drought.
The church in the quarry
Surrounded by a quarry that embraces it, the Church of San Bartolomeo is known as the “pearl in the shell”. Here, protected from a constant blowing wind, sumptuous frescoes and decorations are conserved thanks to the generous bequest of a generous citizen. In this period it is also possible to admire the “Madonna of the chain“, coming from the church of the same name, which in this representation is associated with the umbilical cord and the protection of pregnant women.
The gargoyles of Palazzo Beneventano
Monstrous faces and diabolical grimaces protect this astonishing baroque palace from evil intentions. A Unesco World Heritage Site, this 18th century building is an icon of the city of Scicli. On the corner a statue of St. Joseph protects the crossroads and the wrought iron balconies, so rich and elaborate, remind us of the large and sumptuous dresses of the ladies of the time.
The old pharmacy
After the Town Hall/Commissariat of Montalbano, along the main street of the town, via Francesco Mormino Penna (formerly Via del Corso), after a succession of magnificent Baroque palaces and former convents – it is mandatory to enter the church of Chiesa San Giovanni Evangelista to admire the Christ in a skirt and the madonna in mourning – in a clearing, on the right appears the sign of an ancient pharmacy, Cartia pharmacy. Here, thanks to the perseverance and commitment of a group of young local guides, L’APS Tanit Sciclia small museum that is has been opened to the public a time machine. Once you cross the threshold, you find yourself in the laboratory of an apothecary, among alembics, scales, herbs and poisons protected by perfectly preserved ancient showcases. A curiosity that leaves you pleasantly surprised.
The Bonelli Patanè palace
Opposite the Cartia pharmacy, the same cooperative also manages visits to the Palazzo Bonelli Patatèa leap into places and customs, the last vestiges of the local bourgeois aristocracy. The furnishings, the view, the floors and ceilings have been perfectly preserved. Walking through the themed rooms with the expert guidance of the Tanit Scicli is a real pleasure and the view from balconies and terraces is priceless.
Discovering the Cerasuolo di Vittoria
Donnafugata’s Vittoria estate in Acate, where Cerasuolo is produced.
Going to Scicli and not tasting the local wine would be a big mistake. AND Victoria’s estate in Achates, where Donnafugata produces its Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, has a rural and modern charm at the same time. Here, welcomed by the scents of aromatic herbs, you enter the latest addition to the Rallo family cellars, a place where Donnafugata has seized the opportunity to make a modern red wine in an ancient territory. Surrounded by vineyards of Frappato and Nero d’Avolaoriented from East to West to maximize the beneficial effect of the wind against mold and fungi, since 2016 traditional red wines of Sicily have been created, with a specific interpretation of the territory. In addition to Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG “Floramundi” (mix of Frappato and Nero D’Avola grapes) typical of this area, they also produce a Frappato in purity “Bell’Assai” it’s a Nero d’Avola in purity “Contessa dei Venti”. Two reds that can be treated as white, both are drinkable and tannin discharges. Nero d’Avola above all is surprisingly different from those produced in other areas of Sicily.
Tastings to the sound of jazz
He has found the best way to taste these wines Josè Rallo, wine entrepreneur and refined jazz singer. From the perfect marriage between his passion for music and the family business in wine, tastings were born in the estate that combine for each glass a piece of Jazz or Samba, depending on the character of the wine. Music & Wine it is an original and surprising way to let yourself be carried away by the scents and flavors of Sicily on the waves of persuasive sounds. To try.
However, there are many opportunities to enter the world of Acate: it can be tasted while walking among the rows, or combining each glass with a local dish. Sunday 28 May, then, there will be “Open Cellars”a wine festival and sustainability.
Giacomo Rallo’s family, with over 170 years of experience in quality wine, founded Donnafugata in 1983. In the photo, his wife Gabriella, pioneer of female viticulture, with their children José and Antonio.
The ancient city of Kamarina
If after the tasting you want to treat yourself a walk overlooking the seawe recommend a visit to an archaeological park in a magnificent location: lancient city of Kamarina. Founded by the Syracusan Greeks at the beginning of the 6th century BC (598 BC), Kamarina stood overlooking one of the most beautiful beaches in the area. Since its foundation it was an extremely modern town in customs and architecture. Prosperous to the point of annoying all her neighbors who they attacked and destroyed several times: the Carthaginians in 339 BC. C., the Romans in 258 BC and the Arabs in 827 AD. The origin of the “Kamarina” would mean “inhabited after much effort”and we understand why.
A corner of the archaeological park of Kamarina. (Photo: J. Bellavita)
In addition to the impressive collection of amphorae for oil and wine found in this place, amaze some rare discoveries that attest to the prosperity of Kamarina. Like some metal identity/credit cards, various coins and the equivalent of bills and promissory notes also in metal, quite rare. And after discovering the uses and customs of this ancient city, a walk towards the ancient agora offers a view of the sea as far as the eye can see.
Where to sleep
One of the rooms of Tenuta Cammarana
Cammarana estatenear Donnafugata (RG)
A peaceful 1778 country estate nestled in a flower garden. Here we forget everything, thanks to the care and attention of the landlady, the architect Silvia La Padula, stress is left at the gate. A place where you feel better than at home, among embroidered sheets, home-cooked breakfasts and a swimming pool overlooking the olive trees. Tenutacammarana.it
Baglio Occhipintic.da Fossa di Lupo, Vittoria (RG)
This ancient 17th century farmhouse surrounded by nature is an oasis of luxury in the Sicilian countryside. From a family of winemakers in the heart of the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, a charming resort within an organic farm. Bagliocchipinti.com
Where to eat
Atmospheres at Villa San BartoloContrada San Bartolo, Vittoria (Rg)
Chef Marco Failla has a sacred respect for the raw materials of his land. His dishes are those of tradition with an often surprising update that is never out of tone. The salty cannoli with aubergines and the sweet one with leavened dough with Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryè are truly special. Chefmarcofailla.com/restaurant
Scjabica, Amerigo Vespucci waterfront, Punta Secca (RG)
Chef Joseph Micieli was once called a “fisherman chef” and since then that nickname has stuck with him, but he doesn’t complain about it. His sea view restaurant is a small temple to fish which – if one avoids daring experiments such as seafood carbonara – is treated with the utmost respect. His three tuna tartare is worth the trip. And a stone’s throw from Scjabica, one cannot fail to notice the lighthouse and the balcony of Montalbano. Josephmicieli.it/scjabica
One of chef Joseph Micieli’s dishes from Scjabica in Punta Secca (RG)
Half a wordvia Martiti d’UNGaria 2 Donnalucata (RG)
Montalbano enthusiasts will notice that this fish restaurant with outdoor tables is located near the Marinella del Commissario. Here the sea is the protagonist, flanked by local vegetables. When it’s in season, don’t miss the fritturina di capputtedda, a mix of cuttlefish and small squid served hot. Fish first courses such as amberjack ragù are also excellent. Ristorantemezzaparola.it
Granita in Scicli
Niveravia Francesco Mormino Penna, 14, Scicli (RG)
Certainly the best known and most reviewed ice cream parlor in the city. And rightly so. The granita is plentiful, made only in seasonal fruit and absolutely delicious. Nivera-gelateria.com
The Nivera ice cream parlor in Scicli
Ancient Coffee GrittiVia Nazionale 88, Scicli (RG)
When you ask the inhabitants of the city of Scicli where to get a granita, this is the address. It competes with Nivera for the primacy for the best granita. Facebook
What to buy
Sicilian workersvia Nazionale 2, Scicli (RG)
Dishes, dark brown heads, pine cones and traditional Caltagirone ceramics: all you could wish for. Maestranzesiciliane.it
Quam GalleryVia Francesco Mormino Penna, 79 Scicli (RG)
Antonio Sarnari’s art gallery over the years has become one of the most important points of reference for emerging authors in Sicily. Their calendar of events is full. Quamarte.com
info:
Comune.scicli.rg.it/vivere-la-citta
Visit.donnafugata.it/it/cantine/vittoria/
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