mMonte Carlo, a sun-kissed city-state in southeastern France, 12 kilometers from the Italian borderwith nine neighborhoods with different souls that confirm its many faces: the Principality of Monaco is not only jet-set and millionaire glitter, but also ancient traditions, green corners of silence, art galleries and ideal places for families. And from a family, indeed, from the “family” par excellence, that of the Grimaldis, the Monegasque weekend begins.
The 21 cannons that announced the celebrations for the centenary of the birth of Prince Rainier III on May 31st are now silent and it is time, in addition to the classic changing of the guard at 11.55, to visit the Palazzo dei Principi, the Grimaldi residence since 1927: inside the photographic exhibition Le Prince Chez Lui (until August 20) tells the life, even private, of the former sovereign Rainier of Monaco (until August 20), explore the renovated royal apartments and admire the late Renaissance frescoes.
The superstar aquarium of Monte Carlo
The Oceanographic Museum of Monte Carlo. (Getty Images)
The nearby Oceanographic Museum (musee.ocean.org)also in Le Rocher (the oldest district, with medieval streets and period houses), is home to thousands of Mediterranean and tropical marine species, an exhibition that traces a century of life in the Arctic and Antarctica and the Immersion room to experience the fragility of the polar worlds. The emphasis on eco-sustainability is no coincidence, given the commitment of HSH Prince Albert to environmental protection and its goal of reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 55 percent by 2030.
Lunchtime is approaching and, after a walk in the historic Jardins Saint Martin, the right stop is at the Marché de la Condamine, the market that takes place in Place d’Armes for over a hundred years: fruit stalls, flowers and Monegasque specialities, including i barbajuan (fried dumplings) or the pissaladière (focaccia with onions and anchovies). The Mitron Bakery Monaco bakery-pastry shop is worth a visit, special because it is designed by Mauro Colagreco, starred chef at Mirazur in Menton.
Monte Carlo between sculptures, oysters and jazz
The Opéra Garnier Monte Carlo, in the Casino complex. (IPA)
Alternatively, go to Port Hercule, the lively port at the foot of the Rocher, for a fish tasting at Éric Rinaldi’s La Pêcherie U Luvassu, one of the last local fishermen. Speaking of the catch of the day and oysters, after the afternoon shopping, which ranges from the designer one in One Monte Carlo, the pedestrian district with its luxury boutiques, to the gastronomic L’Orangerie distilleryfor the liqueur made from the bitter oranges that grow on trees in the city, or at the Chocolaterie de Monaco, for artisanal chocolate delights, the aperitif is still based on fish, from Les Perles de Monaco, at the port of Fontvieille, where the Formula 1 pilots, athletes and musicians live. From here, by the way, you can follow the Chemin des sculptures to admire the monumental works of Botero, César, Arman and Calder. You follow the trail of the perfume to Princess rose garden Grace, with her statue created by sculptor Kees Verkade and over six thousand rose plants of 315 varieties.
The statue of Grace Kelly by Kees Verkade, at the Princesse Grace Rose Garden in Monte Carlo. (IPA)
Dinner is at the Maison Fonfon or at the Beefbar Monaco, still in Fontvielle, and then continues to the Carré D’Or, in Monte Carlo, where the the majestic Casino, with marble columns, gilded mirrors and ten-ton chandeliers. And here, les jeux sont fait. Inside, the Salle Garnier perpetuates the tradition of opera (but without forgetting jazz and the big names in pop and blues) and bears witness to the magnificence that inspired its construction in 1863.
The Monte Carlo Casino.
Montecarlo, from art to greenery Kyoto-style
Sunday morning is dedicated to art. The two headquarters of the NMNM (New National Museum of Monaco) are VIlla Paloma, in the Révoires district, and Villa Sauber, a Belle Époque-style residence on the Promenade du Larvotto, the promenade redesigned in 2021 in front of the large renovated public beach. Nearby, ithe Grimaldi Forum Monaco, which hosts the exhibition Monet en pleine Lumièreuntil 3 September, which exhibits works from the master’s artistic career, from Impressionism to abstract painting. The future is a stone’s throw away, which sees the extension of the coast towards the sea in the Mareterra district, or Le Porter, six hectares reclaimed from the sea – without endangering the environment and the seabed, rich in oceanic posidonia, thanks to the curved shape that facilitates the flow of the sea current – where by 2026 there will be eco residences, a port, a blue cave and green spaces, with cycle paths and pedestrian areas. An eye to tomorrow and a regenerating dip, not only in the sea, but also in the rarefied silence of the East, like a painting from other times: it is the Japanese Garden, created by the landscape architect Yasuo Beppu in accordance with the Zen philosophyalso the refuge of chef Alain Ducasse, soul of the multi-starred Louis XV restaurant: walking among bamboo hedges, stone lanterns, waterfalls, ponds with koi carp and lotus flowers, Mediterranean plants, such as pines, olive trees and pomegranates but worked with a jap effect, you go back in time, in a Kyoto of yesterday.
A corner of the Japanese Garden, created by the landscape architect Yasuo Beppu.
The Principality, in this case Monte Carlo, is also pure relaxation and there are those who also take advantage of it for a break at Thermes Marins, 6,600 square meters of wellness and fitness, where, to stay on the subject, until 10 September you can pamper yourself with the Decorté treatments inspired by the Rising Sun. Then a lunch or a healthy snack at the spa restaurant, Les Hirondelles, and you’re ready to go again. Maybe a little reluctantly. Because this, even if the times of Thief hunt of Hitchcock are far away, it is a destination that amazes and always makes us dream.
Where to sleep in Monte Carlo
Monte Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort40 Avenue Princesse Grace.
Located on the Larvotto Peninsula, it is surrounded by four hectares of gardens overlooking the sea. Inside, the Cinq Mondes Spa, a lagoon with waterfalls and mini pools and various restaurants, including the Blue Bay by chef Marcel Ravin, two Michelin stars: a fusion of Caribbean and Mediterranean flavors to be enjoyed on a panoramic terrace. Double from 380 euros. montecarlosbm.com/en/hotel-monaco/monte-carlo-bay-hotel-resort
Hotel Columbus Monte Carlo, 23 Av. des Papalins. Design rooms and suites, most of which have a terrace overlooking the Princesse Grace Rose Garden, the Royal Palace or the old town. Double from 155 euros. columbushotels.com
Where to eat in Monte Carlo
Izakaya Mussel11 Rue du Portier.
It is located near the Larvotto and offers a cuisine that combines ancestral recipes, Japanese culture and freshly caught fish. On the menu the traditional ramen, robata and rolls, revisited in the Italian way. mussel.mc
La Pêcherie U Luvassu, 8 Quai l’Hirondelle.Restaurant and fishmonger on the harbour, in Monaco Ville. Simple and authentic, it always offers the freshest fish. ma-poissonnerie.mc
What to buy
La Boutique du Rocher, Rue Emile de Loth. Handcrafted products mostly by local female creators, all sold on behalf of the Fondation Princesse Grace Monaco. foundation-psse-grace.mc
The Orangery, 9 Rue de la Turbie. The address to buy the Premium Distillerie De Monaco liqueur, produced with natural methods thanks to the bitter oranges grown in the Principality of Monaco. orangerie.mc
info:
visitmonaco.com/it
montecarlosbm.com/it
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