Lhe Franciacorta countryside is an excellence of “culture” and “culture”: from the Latin verb còlere, that is, to cultivate. The medieval Francae Curtes, tax-free Benedictine courts, have in fact been the cradle of viticulture and civilization for centuries. «We Italians must give value to the historical and cultural beauty of our country and we all grew up with “good” things», he recalls Silvano Brescianini, president of the Franciacorta Consortium. «Our knowledge, therefore, leads us to create excellent products».
The history of wine and man is an opportunity to explore this Brescia land of radiant beauty, with the soft undulations lined by the vineyards, the stone villages and to the north the blue of Lake Iseo. Franciacorta is always very enjoyable and autumn, goldening the vineyards, makes it a perfect day trip.
Certainly a great reason to coming to Franciacorta are the famous Classic Method bubblesa happy intuition sixty years ago by Franco Ziliani, a thoroughbred winemaker to whom the soil rich in minerals and the microclimate of the lake offered the help of Mother Nature. But the territory is not just this.
Quiet and reserved, Franciacorta reveals hidden treasures such as Paolo and Carolina Zani Foundation, established in 2019 to preserve Paolo Zani’s art collectionan entrepreneur who built his house like a Roman domus, with 11 rooms around an impluvium transformed for the exhibition of the works. You can admire Venices by Guardi, Canaletto, Tiepolo, Longhi; chinoiseries, eighteenth-century dressers, Murano pieces (foundationzani.com). Until October 29th the private Bernini exhibition. Strength and restlessness pays homage to the pictorial production of the great Gian Lorenzo.
Franciacorta between pinnacles and turrets
This oasis is located in the shadow of the Gussago Castle, at the top of the mountain of La Santissima, a Roman and Lombard settlement. Pinnacles, battlements and turrets are the culmination of ancient activities: in the 11th century settlement, the Dominicans developed the art of oratory, herbalism and viticulture.
Sabrina Gozio, oenologist and fifth generation of a family of distillers, has taken the path of winemaking since 2005, replanting the old vineyards of the monks, but with a new spirit: «We adhere to the Ita.Ca project proposed by the Consortium, method capable of calculating and controlling the CO2 emissions of the entire production process” tells. «With the Biopass project, we plant legumes such as field beans and rapeseed between the rows, whose roots oxygenate the soil and enrich it with nitrogen. This technique, called green manure, embellishes our vineyards with colorful flowers». With the Satèn Club Cuvée 2017, the company led by Gozio has just won the gold medal at the “Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championship”.
From one hill to another, the Monte della Madonna in Monticelli Brusati is the setting for the 15th century Sanctuary of the Rose, built according to the Vulgate on the place where the Virgin appeared to a thirsty farmer indicating a source. At the point of the apparition she bloomed a rose garden. But these are not the only wonders of this place: in 1833 the Austrian troops camped there abandoned the sanctuary because the well had dried up, but as soon as the enemies left, the water returned (promonticelli.it).
A slow and long-lived turtle
Returning to the plain you come across another historical place, the sixteenth-century cellars of Mosnel, the Barboglio family’s agricultural company since the 19th century, converted into a winery in the 1960s. «My mother, Emanuela Barboglio, was a pioneer of Franciacorta», says Lucia Barzanò, fifth generation, who deals with marketing in the company. «You replanted the vineyards according to the criteria of the newly created DOC and today we produce organic wines for all types of the specifications. To remember her we dedicated EBB to her, a vintage extra brut made from Chardonnay grapes.”
Picnic in the vineyard at the Mosnel cellars
In the summer, Mosnel offers the experience of a picnic in the vineyard, with its wines. Young, however, in 2009, the Corte Aura winery was strongly supported by the “oenological” dream of Federico Fossati, an accountant from Padua, and his mother Federica Massagrande. «We named the cellar paying homage to the Corti Franche and together with the Aura, the vital breath that can make the fruit of our work unique”, says Federica. A woman of character, she called “Insé” the vintage pas dosé of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, because it is a wine that develops in itself, intact and authentic like only a Classic Method without the addition of liqueur (which corrects, but could cover the wine ) can be. The symbol of the new company is a tenaciously slow and long-lived turtle: slow aging of the wines, always over 30 months to obtain a fine bubble, and longevity of the product.
Tenacity and longevity are also qualities of the nearby Romanesque parish church of Santa Maria Maggiore in Erbusco. Built in the 12th century, it has undergone everything: stripped and deconsecrated, it was a warehouse, a municipal theatre, then abandoned, until the tenacity of a parish priest and many people from this generous land slowly brought it back to its ancient splendor.
Where to sleep in Franciacorta
Villa Biondelli Wine & Suites
An 18th century villa among Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards from which their Franciacorta wines are derived. Eleven suites, family atmosphere but with every comfort. Double room in B&B €250 biondelli.com
Villa Sisters House
Elegant and perfect for family or friend groups, a villa with swimming pool, centuries-old park, sleeps 20. Per week from €7,700 sistershouse.it
The Sanctuary of the Rose from the 15th century, built according to the Vulgate on the place where the Virgin appeared to a thirsty farmer indicating a spring.
Where to eat
Hill Colle Bistrot
Ancient farmhouse on the hills, where chef Augusto Pasini reinterprets tradition. Excellent use of Iseo fish. hillcolle.com
From Nadia
A DOC Romagna, Nadia Vincenzi, who obtained a Michelin star with verve and tenacity. Sea fish menu of great creativity and strong flavours. restaurantdanadia.com
What to buy
Corte Aura, in Adro (BS), is a two-level winery created in 2009 from the renovation of a rural building.
Polastri Macèlér
Four generations of butchers prepare marinated loin, soppressa, but also cheeses and stuffed pasta. He does tastings in the shop. polastrimaceler.it
Roberto butcher’s shop
Meats of the best quality and a wide selection of local gastronomy products: sausages, jams, pickles, wines. macelleriaroberto.it
A question of taste Shop & Bistro Shop with typical products on the shores of Lake Iseo. Alessandro Fontana and Marika offer 400 types of cheeses. Viale Repubblica 4, Iseo (Bs)
Gussago Castle
The vineyards of the ancient Benedictine monastery (under renovation) reborn from the passion of Sabrina Gozio, a winemaker full of sensitivity and personality. castellodigussago.it
Mosnel Agricultural Company
The children of a Franciacorta pioneer in the 1960s make wine in an ancient farm full of charm. mosnel.com
Aura Court
Born from the enthusiasm of Federica Massagrande and her son Federico, it uses an oenologist with great experience in the Classic Method to obtain prestigious bubbles. corteaura.it
INFO:
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