La vocation grandeur from Imola, legacy of the government of Caterina Sforza, the warrior countess of the Renaissance, daughter of the Duke of Milan, is discovered in its airy historic center, where the warm colors of terracotta predominate. And It is a pleasure to savor, between Piazza Matteotti and the arcades of the Via Emilia, the rites of the weekend in the province, far from the throng of tourists that besieges the great cities of art.
The arcades of Via Emilia and, in the background, Piazza Matteotti, in the historic center of Imola.
A curiosity: the historic center can also be visited by following the ancient map of Imola in flight attributed to Leonardo da Vinci (owned by the Windsors, the English royal family and drawn showing the city from above, with the precision of a photo taken by a drone.
After an insider’s breakfast in via Emilia, at Caffè Otello or at Caffè del Grillo, or under the arcades overlooking Piazza Matteotti, you can admire the Palazzo Sersanti (on the east side of the square) the most beautiful of the town at the behest of Girolamo Riario, Caterina Sforza’s husband, in Renaissance style but made with local materials: exposed brick facade, punctuated by fourteen round arches, with tall gray sandstone columns. The windows of the noble floor and the arches of the portico are framed with splendid terracotta motifs, as is the very rich cornice.
Piazza Matteotti, the heart of Imola.
The Saturday morning walk in Imola, enlivened by shopping in the well-kept shops, continues along the Via Emilia. Do not miss the astonishing hospital pharmacy (via Emilia 95, open 8.30-13 and 15.30-19.30. Saturday 8.30-13) which lines 457 white and blue majolica vases from the 18th century on current period shelving all around the walls. A glance.
The Pharmacy of the Hospital, in Imola. Photo by Anna Maria D’Urso.
Before closing (Saturdays at 1pm) the municipal library is worth a visit (via Emilia 80) which is located in the ancient fourteenth-century convent of San Francesco. An opportunity for a break between newspapers and magazines and to consult the volumes on the history of the city. The surprise? The spectacular monumental staircase that leads to the beautiful eighteenth-century Franciscan Library.
The Franciscan Library, in Imola.
In the upper church of the former convent of San Francesco, however, in 1812 the Teatro dei Signori Associati was inaugurated, today the Stignani Theater, with polished stucco boxes, gilded reliefs, mid-nineteenth and early twentieth century decorations.
The Stignani Theater, in Imola.
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A dip of the ‘700
The dining room of Palazzo Tozzoni, in Imola. Photo by Anna Maria D’Urso.
But the artistic jewels of Imola are two: Palazzo Tozzoni and Rocca Sforzesca: two visits that alone are worth the trip. Palazzo Tozzoni (via Garibaldi 18) is a real, not virtual, dive into the eighteenth century thanks to the last heir, Sofia Serristoni Tozzoni, who in 1978 donated it to the city turnkey, furniture, paintings and objects included. As guests on a courtesy visit, he wanders among the apartments on the main floor, you can admire the dining room with richly laid table, the period toilets, the halls, the lounges and the beautiful kitchen. In charge of the house, a life-size doll with the features of Orsola Bandini, wife of Count Giorgio Tozzoli, who after the death of her beloved had a bizarre fetish built with the clothes and hair of the countess.
In the house-fortress of Caterina Sforza
The Rocca Sforzesca, in Imola.
Walking in the light of the sunset along the tall, silent patrol walkways of the Rocca Sforzesca in Imola is an emotion. Of the ancient medieval towers only the Keep still stands out in the inner courtyard. The Renaissance restructuring, with circular towers placed to defend the city and capable of resisting the blows of the bomb, was commissioned by the lord of Imola, Girolamo Riario, husband of Caterina Sforza. The mugs and ceramics recovered from water wells and from “throw” bear witness to life in the fortress, from the museum windows. Info: museiciviciimola.it
Dozza, an open-air art gallery
A glimpse of Dozza, the painted village. Photo by Anna Maria D’Urso.
Fortified by Girolamo and, after his death, by Caterina, also the Fortress of Dozza (fondazionedozza.it), just eight kilometers from Imola. From a military fortress it was transformed over the centuries into a noble residence inhabited until 1960 and today it is open to the public as a house-museum. In the basement, the Regional Enoteca of Emilia-Romagna (enotecaemiliaromagna.it) has found a prestigious location, with more than a thousand labels on display and for sale and the wine bar for tastings.
Dozza, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, is a cheerful and colorful open-air art gallery, which can be visited at any time of the year without having to buy an entrance ticket. Just take the two main streets of the spindle-shaped medieval village to admire more than 200 works that embellish the walls. A perennial work in progress, thanks to the Biennale del Muro Dipinto, born in the 60s, which invites artists to Dozza to express their art. Result: the fresco becomes an urban landscape and decorates the walls of the houses, the streets and the squares, with different styles in every corner. One for all, The angel of Dozza made by Giuliana Bonazza: it completely envelops the door of the house on which it was painted. An irresistible invitation to pose under his wings, for the souvenir photo. No desire to go home? Extend your stay and stop at the village of Brisighella and Faenza, the city of ceramics. But that’s another story …
The mural “L’angelo di Dozza” (1993) by Giuliana Bonazza, in the village of Dozza. Photo by Anna Maria D’Urso.
Information
visitimola.it
Where to sleep
Room & Breakfast and Apartments Teatro
Modern and super comfortable accommodation, Double from 57 euros. Via Verdi 17, Imola, rebteatro.com
The Secret Garden B&B
Cozy house in the historic center. Double from 82 euros. Via Emilia 94, Imola.
Where to eat
Osteria del Vicolo Nuovo. From Ambra and Rosa
On the menu the tagliatelle al rolling pin and the double ravioli with Squacquerone di Romagna dop and guinea fowl pulp with Parmigiano di Bianca Modenese Slow Food Presidium. Via Codronchi 6, Imola, vicolonuovo.it
The double ravioli with Squacquerone di Romagna dop and guinea fowl pulp with Parmigiano from the Osteria del Vicolo Nuovo, in Imola.
San Domenico restaurant
Two Michelin stars led by chef Max Mascia, where you can taste the famous “San Domenico” ® Egg in raviolo with alpine butter, sweet parmesan and white truffle. Via G Sacchi 1, Imola, sandomenico.it
Hostaria 900
A quiet Liberty villa where you can try Risotto in the loaf. Viale Dante Alighieri 20, Imola, hostaria900.it
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