C.hiavenna has a double soul. She is noble and refined, but firmly linked to her peasant traditions. Almost close to the Swiss border, crossed by the river Mera, it was an important point of exchange between Italy and the rest of Europe. The beautiful stone portals of the ancient buildings that overlook the main street, via Dolzino, the homes of wealthy merchants testify to this.
Vertemate Franchi Palace, in Cortinaccio di Piuro. Photo by Gianfranco Tadini.
Touring Club Orange Flag (which certifies the excellent small villages of the Italian hinterland), Chiavenna preserves its beauty and its strong identity intact. It is worth visiting without haste, lingering through the narrow streets of the historic center, including crossing the bridge over the Mera from which you can admire one of the most evocative views of the town surrounded by mountains. The quadriportico of the Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo, with its famous baptismal font from 1156, a monolith of ollàre stone adorned with half-relief sculptures. Do not miss the adjacent Treasure Museum, it houses the precious “Peace of Chiavenna”, a masterpiece of medieval goldsmiths: a dazzling 11th century gospel cover in embossed gold, gems, pearls and polychrome enamels.
From the treasures of art to the masterpieces of nature
The bell tower of the Collegiate Church of San Lorenzo, in Chiavenna.
If the sun shines in “that Lombardy sky, so beautiful when it is beautiful, so splendid, so at peace”, it is worth walking along the paths of the Paradise Botanical Archaeological Park (open every day except Monday, 10-12 and 14-17) formed by two hills overlooking Chiavenna, connected by a footbridge. In the surroundings of Chiavenna, in Piuro, we stop at Acquafraggia waterfalls (the “beautiful water chadutes” mentioned by Leonardo da Vinci del Atlantic code): 170 meters of double jump to be admired without the summer crowds. Worth a mini trek, from Chiavenna to Piuro, the Park of the Marmitte dei Giganti, characterized by large and deep holes dug into the rock, over the millennia, by the erosive action of water.
The Acquafraggia waterfalls, in Piuro.
In the palace of wonders
A glimpse of the Hall of Jupiter and Mercury, inside Palazzo Vertemate Franchi, in Cortinaccio di Piuro, near Chiavenna. Photo by Anna Maria DUrso.
The heart of the slow weekend coincides with the coordinates of Prosto di Piuro, where the Renaissance casket of Palazzo Vertemate Franchi awakens, survived the landslide of 1618 and which has the mountains of Val Bregaglia as its backdrop. The Vertemate merchants, among the wealthiest in the area, wanted to flaunt their wealth with a delightful villa with an Italian garden, fishpond, chapel, orchard, chestnut grove and a vineyard, from which passito wine is now produced. Inside Palazzo Vertemate Franchi, there are two floors of halls and rooms entirely frescoed with mythological scenes, with stue lined in wood and inlaid ceilings.
A small walk downhill leads to Prosto, where artisan knowledge produces small, fragrant masterpieces: the inimitable, original Biscotìn de Prost, made with butter “for centuries handcrafted by the Del Curto family in the ancient mill of Piuro”. A recipe jealously guarded by the sisters Monica and Simonetta Del Curto, in the shop in via della Chiesa 3.
Stories & flavors of Piuro
A few meters further on, however, in his charming atelier-laboratory (via della Chiesa 5) the craftsman Roberto Lucchinetti is ready to tell all the steps and secrets of soapstone processing, with which realizes the traditional stone pots, but also sculptures and elegant jewelry.
The atelier-laboratory where the artisan Roberto Lucchinetti works the soft stone, in Prosto di Piuro. Photo: Anna Maria D’Urso
Discovering the Crotto
It’s not over. The material culture of Valchiavenna is concentrated around to the Crotti, cavities leaning against the walls of the mountain and ventilated by the sorelnatural openings from which a cold current of air blows that keeps the temperature constant, in short, the ideal place for storing cold cuts and cheeses. It is precisely in the crotti, places of conviviality, that you can taste the dishes and products at Km 0 of Valchiavenna. To the Crotto Belvedere (via alla Chiesa 6, Prosto di Piuro) founded in 1646, it is Marco Pasini, the owner, who passionately explains the characteristics, origin and maturation of the cheeses kept and for sale in his crotto.
Forms of local cheese selected and preserved at the Crotto Belvedere, in Presto di Piuro. Photo by Anna Maria D’Urso.
From cave to table, the experience of the senses continues by ordering a superb crotto cheese tasting. Then on the menu, between the brisaola, the Chiavenna gnocchetti, the pizzoccheri from Valtellina, the polenta taragna and the ribs al lavecc, there is only the embarrassment of choice.
Tasting of local cheeses at Crotto Belvedere, in Presto di Piuro. Photo by Anna Maria D’Urso.
The most delicious shopping in Lombardy
After Prosto biscuits and local cheeses, gourmet shopping continues in Chiavenna at the Del Curto butcher’s shop (via Dolzino, 129) for bresaola and goat violin, al Balgera bakery (via Dolzino, 40 E) for rye bread, e at the Marino wine shop (via Dolzino, 64) which aligns the best local labels (Valtellina Superiore Grumello, Sassella, and Inferno) including wines awarded with the prestigious Tre Bicchieri by the Gambero Rosso guide Vini d’Italia 2023: Valtellina Sforzato Corte di Cama 2019 Mamete Prevostini and Valtellina Superiore Valgella Vigneto Fracia 2018 Nino Negri. For desserts, bisciola Valtellinese and panettone, go to Mastai pastry shop (piazza Donegani, 3) in front of Chiavenna station.
Brushstrokes of genius loci
Chiavenna and its valley are not only a heritage handed down and guarded by its inhabitants. To capture the power, the silences, the soul of the mountains are also the works of Kim Sommerschield (sommerschield.it) watercolorist of Anglo-Scandinavian origins, who in his atelier aligns brushes and boots. Chapeau!
INFO: valchiavenna.com
Where to sleep
Pasini House
Via Cortinaccio 1, Presto di Piuro.
A stone’s throw from Palazzo Vertemate Franchi, an enchanting guesthouse recently restored, mixing design and tradition: six rooms furnished with wood and wrought iron. Breakfast is served in the old stua. Three nights in a double room for 280 euros. casapasini.it
View from Casa Pasini Foresteria, in Prosto di Piuro. Photo by Anna Maria D’Urso.
Salis Palace
Via Dolzino, 126, Chiavenna.
Eighteenth-century building, surrounded by the garden, in the historic center of Chiavenna. Double 130 euros per night. palazzosalis.eu
Where to eat
Villa Giade, Restaurant and B&B
Via GB Picchi 1, Chiavenna (Sondrio).
Haute cuisine by Arcangelo Deflorio, who revisits tradition with imagination. On the menu: Chestnut tagliatelle from Santa Croce, porcini mushrooms, Scilano cream; Venison sirloin, braised celeriac and its cream, plums marinated in Porto, porcini mushrooms from our woods. villagiade.com
Bistrot Mastai coffee
Piazza Donegani 3, Chiavenna.
Sweet lunch based on coffee and mignon or savory pastries, with focaccia and lard or focaccia stuffed with bresaola, mushrooms and casera. mastai.it
iO Donna © REPRODUCTION RESERVED