THEThe fashion system hasn’t decided to go on vacation: it was announced theyet another change inside one of the Maison, this time Italian, most appreciated of the last fashion weeks. It’s the turn of Tod’swhich says goodbye to its creative director Walter Chiapponi, after four years of collaboration. Favorable sales figures and a repositioning of the brand on the market are not enough, the waltz of creative directors has no intention of stopping.
Walter Chiapponi at Tod’s, how it all began
In the history of Tod’s the parenthesis signed by Walter Chiapponi will always be remembered as a period of rebirth. After working for Bottega Veneta under the creative direction of Tomas Maier, the Milanese creative had accepted the arduous challenge of taking over the reins of both the women’s and men’s collections, the former without a creative director since 2016 and the latter only a few months ago. So, in 2019began what today can be considered Walter Chiapponi’s rise to fame with Tod’s. Which, starting from his first Fall Winter 2020 2021 collection, demonstrated a precise aesthetic intention that aimed to relocate the brand among the big names of Made in Italy.
Despite the difficulties encountered during the pandemic, which broke out shortly after the formalization of his office, he showed that he knew how to do it right away. Walter Chiapponi’s Tod’s knew reinterpret the great classics with foresight and proposing a narrative that is coherent with the times and with the DNA of the brand, without never give up on coolness and the glamor required by the market today.
The show finale of the Spring Summer 2023 collection.
A divorce by mutual consent
However, all this was not enough. After a rumor that came out on the morning of Wednesday 12 July, towards the evening confirmation has arrived. Walter Chiapponi leaves Tod’s with a decision made by “common agreement”. After only four years the management of the brand, presided over by Diego Della Valle, has signed the papers of this stylistic divorce that no one, until yesterday, would have expected. Also declaring that «the new creative direction will be announced in the coming months» and that Walter will greet his audience with the last woman show during Milan Fashion week in September.
«Dedication, love and energy. So I want to thank and greet Tod’s, starting with a truly special style team, which for four years has supported my vision and contributed to this beautiful journey with delicacy, attention, passion and trust – declared the designer commenting on his departure -. An amazing experience, human and creative, made of courage and temper, journey and support, especially in the most delicate moments of life. I especially thank Diego and Andrea Della Valle who believed in me. Thank you for the courage, humanity and freedom you have given me for express the best version of me with Tod’s in intense years like these».
Understanding what is behind this farewell is not easy. If normally in these cases the fault lies with the turnover and results of the creative director, in this case the situation gets more complicated. Chiapponi leaves the brand much better than he found it, with an increase of 23.2% of revenues in the first quarter rose from 219.6 million euros last year to 270.5 million in 2023. And with the sales of Tod’s al +24.4% compared to the first quarter of 2022.
When will the fashion waltz stop?
From time to time, the future of Tod’s is yet to be discovered. What is clear is that the game of chairs among designers has no intention of stopping. Walter Chiapponi’s farewell is the latest to be added to a long list to which they belong Alexander Michael from Gucci And Jeremy Scott from Moschino.
But also the very young duo GmbH from Trussardiclosely followed by Bruno Sialelli from Lanvinfrom the very rapid career of Charles de Vilmorin da Rochasby Rhuigi Villaseñor from bally and finally, the most recent, Gabriela Hearst from Chloé.
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