The weather-spoiled Vinschgau region in western South Tyrol can be alpine and surprisingly Mediterranean – it just rarely gets cloudy here.
An apple a day … not only keeps the doctor away, but also unfit Berliners.
At least that’s what my mountain guide Ernst Reinstadler (75) must have thought as I (a good 40 years younger) panted behind him on my snowshoes, breathing heavily. We are in Val Venosta on the way, that region South Tyrolwhich not only has the highest mountains, but also the best apples.
Every time I can’t take it anymore, I pretend to take a picture. “Oh, such beautiful landscapes, we don’t have that in the big city!” His dog Dori, who has as much energy as daycare children after three bottles of coke, sees through my strategy immediately and just looks back annoyed. According to the description, the hike to the hut should take 1.5 hours. We, or I, need almost three.
I’m a bit surprised about the deep snow and the alpine environment up here in the Stelvio National Park. Winter fairy tales as far as the eye can see! With over 134,000 hectares, it is the largest nature park in the entire Alpine region. When I traveled to Vinschgau yesterday, through the sunny valleys, the area seemed so Mediterranean, so lovely.
Fruit trees everywhere, I stopped at farmers who patiently explained about 15 varieties of apples to me like I was picking diamonds. I bought almost all of them to try, three euros something. I haven’t had it that crisp in a long time. The happy people here, I thought, anyone who cracks at least one apple a day simply has to be much fitter than us Berliners.
But now we are walking through the wild and romantic surroundings of the national park, completely surrounded by the Alps. The tracks of deer, rabbits and the dog Dori glisten in the snow. We don’t meet anyone here. In the middle of the route, Ernst opens his backpack – time for a snack. Instead of apples, he takes out Kaminwurzen, then a thick piece of contraband cheese (so called because it used to be smuggled across the Swiss border) and wine.
Our destination is the Furkelhütte. At 2153 meters you have a breathtaking view of the highest mountain in South Tyrol, the Ortler (3905 meters). My legs burn and sink into deep snow, but the sun keeps pushing me. Because it’s in the shape of a dumpling, which I’ll eat right away at the hut. Go on!
And the sun is very important for the Vinschgau, here it shines more than 300 days a year. The region lies at a central point in the Alps, the high mountain ridges (many exceeding 3000 meters) take the fertile valley right in the middle. These special climatic conditions ensure a unique vegetation, the rainfall in some places does not exceed that of Sicily.
Not only apples, apricots, strawberries and wine grow here, but also more tropical plants such as melons, kiwis and ginger. The young 27-year-old chef Thomas Ortler can easily serve Asian-Alpine cuisine in his “Flurin” restaurant, using only the local gardens.
Hotels like “The barley” source most of their groceries within a 30 kilometer radius and work closely with farmers. Also with products for the huge wellness area. As a guest you don’t notice that, the 30 kilometers can be so exotic in Vinschgau.
For a long time, the region was a poor spot, and tourism development started late here. That’s why Vinschgau still looks so wonderfully untouched, the small towns like Glurns seem to be painted from a medieval book.
Most people know the landmark of Vinschgau at least from pictures: a sunken church tower with a faded clock rises lonely from the six-kilometer-long, clear Reschensee (not far from the Reschenpass). And casts a long pointer shadow depending on the amount of sunlight.
But the story behind the well-known postcard motif is less idyllic: the Romanesque church from the 14th century is a remnant of an irresponsible damming of the lake shortly after the end of the Second World War, and many families lost their homes at the time. Their houses are buried in the lake forever.
Thanks to its location in a natural wind tunnel, Lake Reschen is a hotspot for kite surfers in summer and for ice skaters, snow kiters and cross-country skiers in winter – after all, it reliably freezes over at an altitude of 1500 meters.
I trudge onto the ice like a penguin, wanting to get very close to the tower. Suddenly the ice cracked under my feet. Was it too many dumplings? The locals around me seem relaxed: the layer is at least 20 centimeters thick. Nevertheless: No more huts for me. On the way back to Berlin I’d rather grab a few more apples.
And this is how you get to Vinschgau
Getting there: From BER either to Bolzano with Sky Alps (skyalps.com) fly from 165 euros/route or to Innsbruck Easyjet (easyjet.com) from 25 euros/way. Continue by rental car for about 1.5 hours to Vinschgau.
All information: suedtirol.info/de, vinschgau.net/de
Stay: in the “Alpine & Relax Hotel Das Gerstl” from 145 euros/pp in a double room, incl. gourmet board, wellness, sports program and many activities (dasgerstl.com).
Eat: rustic in the evening “Anigglhof” (anigglhof.it) or send im “Flurin” (flurin.it). At noon after a hike in the Furkelhütte or on the Rescher Alm (rescheralm.it) stop off