D.Behind the summer, playful and hyperbolic face, the Roman Ariminum, a medieval town, city and lordship of the Malatesta family and then the undisputed standard-bearer of the Romagna Riviera, hides another: the winter one. IS the Rimini most loved by Federico Fellini, the one with the most delicate and intimate tones, yet kissed by art and its ancient culture. It is a perfect destination for an off-season visit, to relax by being captivated by the charm of the winter sea – an infinite palette of blues and grays – with the scent of salt, a sunny morning that invites you to stroll along the beach.
“Rimini is like the blues, it has everything inside”
In winter, Rimini smiles at travelers curious about its history to discover its transformation into a sustainable city. Those arriving by train can rent a bicycle, including an electric one, at the Bike Park (bikeparkrimini.it) in front of the station and move slowly along the “bicipolitan”, kilometers and kilometers of cycle paths. It is one of the results of the green policy on which the Romagna city has focused in the last ten years: from the regeneration of urban spaces to environmental rehabilitation. There was no shortage of investments: 250 million euros just for the new waterfront, as well as those for the enhancement of the artistic and monumental heritage that links Rimini to the Adriatic. In the words of Ligabue: «Rimini is like the blues, it has everything inside». Suffice it to say that in that kilometer of the historic center between the Augustus Arch and the Tiberius Bridge, the best place to enjoy the light of sunrise and sunset, there are two thousand years of history. From the archaeological site of the Surgeon’s House (domusrimini.com), where 150 medical instruments belonging to Eutyches, a surgeon of the third century AD, were found, up to the Part (palazziarterimini.it), the contemporary art museum opened a year ago, with the redevelopment of the medieval complex of the Arengo palaces and the Podestà. The museum houses the collection of contemporary art works donated to the San Patrignano Foundation by artists, collectors and gallery owners. Among the big names are William Kentridge, Velasco Vitali and Vanessa Beecroft. Of the great works exhibited in the garden, the tallest, the hand of Piotr Uklanski and the umbrellas of Paul Kneale, can be peeked from the contiguous San Martino square, in the middle of which Rina, a gold-colored rhinoceros has been dominating since this summer. Another is located in front of the Grand Hotel Rimini. These are copies of the one seen in Venice during the Film Festival, a reference to E la nave va by Fellini, Rimini’s pride.
See how I rock (in front of cult movies)
Fellini Museum ph. Lorenzo Burlando 20
It is in the sign of his visionary talent, which was inaugurated on Fellini Museum (fellinimuseum.it) which contains the history of Italian cinema of the twentieth century through the biography of the Maestro, with original stage drawings, clothes by Danilo Donati, objects, photographs and handwritten scores by Nino Rota. Towards the end of the itinerary, a dimly lit room stands out, with two swings where you can swing gently in front of clips of the Rimini director’s masterpieces, alternating with films from the same era. The museum occupies the fifteenth century Rocca Malatestiana of Castel Sismondo (to whose project Brunelleschi also contributed) overlooking piazza Malatesta, one of the pedestrian areas just returned to the city, with gardens and water features, after having been a parking lot and a local market for years. The Renaissance castle is the first of Fellini’s locations, the second will be (from 12 December) Palazzo Valloni which has a thirty-seat cinema hall for the projection of documentaries and auteur films. In the same building, the Fulgor cinema also reopened three years ago, with the furnishings signed by the costume designer and artistic director Dante Ferretti, three times Oscar winner. It is precisely in that room that, during the screening of the film Maciste all’Inferno, the creative spark of the young Federico was lit. The extraordinary fact is that, after years of waiting, the historic Amintore Galli Theater has also reopened its doors (teatrogalli.it) inaugurated in 1857 by Giuseppe Verdi, which is worth a guided tour to admire the foyer, the stalls and the foyer.
An open air lounge
After sunset, one of the busiest areas of Rimini is the Vecchia Pescheria, an ancient fish market that today is full of bars and cafes. The same liveliness characterizes the village of San Giuliano, a welcoming historic district and an intrigue of narrow streets and squares, murals, clubs and timeless maritime atmospheres, where you can’t say no to the thin Rimini piada. The new promenade, renamed Parco del Mare, is an urban park prohibited to cars. There are wooden platforms for pedestrians and cycle paths for bikes. On the beach it is not allowed to smoke, disposable plastic objects are banned and collection is strictly differentiated. In this natural area, where the Adriatic vegetation has been replanted, there are fitness areas for training and also spaces for free time, almost open-air lounges, where you can sit and read, chat or connect to the wifi while looking at the sea. .
On the free beach of the port, the Fluxo coaches (333.8306548) offer training sessions complete with swimming in the sea in winter, to adapt to low temperatures and improve psychophysical conditions. On the other side of the canal, from the dock we leave for short cruises on a sailing boat or catamaran with East Coast Experience (ecerimini.it). Weather and sea permitting, you can sail along the coast to Vallugola bay, in the Monte San Bartolo Natural Park, between Gabicce and Casteldimezzo or to go out fishing in the Adriatic. Then, to go mountain biking to discover the hills of Rimini, there are guided tours tailor-made by Paolo Vidale based on the athletic ability of the participants (biketourrimini.it). Yes, in winter, Rimini changes its face. And it’s much more romantic.
Where to sleep in Rimini
Grand Hotel Rimini
Five-star luxury immortalized by Fellini. Do not miss the guided tour (free upon reservation) open also to those who do not stay in the hotel. Double from 180 euros. grandhotelrimini.com
Villa Adriatica
A few hundred meters from the Parco del Mare. Eleonora Duse and Gabriele D’annunzio slept in one of the romantic Novecento rooms, in the oldest part of the Villa, in 1897. Double with breakfast from 75 euros. villaadriatica.it
i-Suite Hotel
A new building, only suites and a wellness center on the sixth floor in the Marina area. Double with breakfast and access to the spa from 210 euros. i-suite.it
Widespread stays
Different family properties in the heart of the San Giuliano village, you can choose between two bed & breakfasts, a two-room apartment with kitchen overlooking the Tiberius bridge and two small houses on two floors. Double room with breakfast from 80 euros, two-room apartment and cottage from 110 euros per night. sojournidiffusi.it
Where to eat in Rimini
Augusta Cucina and Cicchetto restaurant
In a modern setting you can taste the spaghetti with clams and cantarelli (stuffed pancakes) with marinated anchovies and spring onion, cut as a roll. Via di Duccio 30, tel. 0541088489.
Trattoria da Lucio
Fish cuisine. To taste the amberjack aged 25 days with raw shrimps and garusi water or grilled fish collar (between the head and the gills) with seasoning that varies according to the season. Viale Vespucci 71, cell. 340.9743459, trattoriadalucio.cuoriebbri.com
La Esse Romagnola Restaurant
The best meat dishes of Romagna cuisine in a mix of originality and tradition. Excellent Romagna carbonara with Parmesan fondue, poached eggs, black truffle flakes from Valmarecchia and roast beef cooked at low temperature with pecorino foam, salted zabaglione and flavored bread crumble. laesseromagnola.it
Info: visitrimini.com
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