Trip to the British Virgin Islands: Caribbean relaxation

C‘it’s scrub and scrub. TO Scrub Island for centuries the Pirates of the Caribbean have been scrubbing. Not to their (not very) delicate skin, but to the encrusted keel of their ships by rubbing it on the shallow waters, and then boarding English, French and Spanish merchant sailing ships. Today instead on Scrub Island you scrub in a luxurious spa with pool overlooking the outrageously beautiful sea of ​​the British Virgin Islands.

In the same place they do massages inspired by Ayurveda – it is no coincidence that the director of the spa is Indian – and we also witness the passage of whales between April and July. The whales are a good thing for everyone, the wellness center is for the hotel’s guests Scrub Island Resort Spa & Marinato which the island itself belongs.

British Virgin Islands, luxury and private atolls

It’s not the only example: in this Overseas Territory (with limited self-government) of His Majesty King Charles III which has around sixty islands, there are several private atolls. The most famous is from the owner of Virgin, Sir Richard Branson: Necker Island reflects the tastes and beliefs of the owner of the house, with only three buildings and as many wind turbines. If you are not lucky enough to be invited by Mr. Branson you can view Necker Island by taking the ferry to Oil Nut Bay (oilnutbay.com). It is a natural area of ​​headlands and bays at the tip of the beautiful island of Virgin Gordawhere a very exclusive village is under construction which will only be reachable by sea.

An island all to itself

Also seen at Oil Nut Bay Eustatia Island, private island of a billionaire who cares a lot about confidentiality; according to those in the know, it is the co-founder of Google, Larry Page. One quality of the British Virgin Islands is that they are all close together, so you can get around the archipelago by boat or ferry, without having to fly from one island to another as happens in other parts of the Caribbean. The history and toponymy of this archipelago are linked to the great navigators, from Christopher Columbus who arrived there in 1493 to the Sir Francis Drake Channel which separates the largest island, Tortolafrom the small islands to the south.

The kingdom of the corsairs

The island of Jost Van Dyke is named after a Dutch corsair of the 17th century, today the kingdom of nightclubs and entertainment. Each island here has its own vocation and at the opposite end of the spectrum there is Jost Van Dyke Anegada: depopulated, silent, it is a long strip of talcum powder bathed in water of unreal transparency. Very few homes and a “wild” resort with wooden bungalows without air conditioning but cooled by the sea breeze. Anegada is the secret refuge of those who want to listen to the music of the wind and the sea (refrain disco clubbers).

The Caribbean Sea delights diving lovers, hunting for the wrecks of ships sunk due to battles or storms. There are also around a hundred sites dedicated to snorkelling around the spectacular coral reef which is among the longest in the world and has 160 varieties of fish. There is no shortage of mixed nature reserves, i.e. terrestrial-marine, such as the unmissable The Baths National Park in Virgin Gorda (bvinpt.org/the-baths).

The protection of the coral reef

The tourist boom of the British Virgin Islands dates back to the 1960s, when luxury yachts began to arrive. Hollywood was also pushing them, producing films like Virgin Islands with Sidney Poitier. A small universe of emerald seas that seemed like an immutable enchantment until, in 2017, it was shocked by Hurricane Irmawhose violence obliterated homes and marinas on many islands.

“It was tough, but we got back on our feet,” says Shannon Gore, biologist, geologist and director of the non-profit organization BVIark (bviark.org), which works in partnership with the Ministry of the Environment. «Fortunately the hurricane only marginally touched the coral reef. Our organization mainly deals with the health of the reef: protecting it and, if necessary, repairing it, putting small pieces of coral to grow in the nursery and then implanting them where needed. In addition to this we take care of the protection of dolphins. It is valuable work for the health of the sea, but more funding is needed; above all, more limits would be needed on the circulation of boats, which disturb both the whales and the nursery areas” adds Shannon Gore.

I drop everything and go to the Caribbean

A very different point of view is expressed – partly jokingly, partly not – by the Italian Federica Feliziani, who has lived in Beef Island, a small “steak-shaped” island linked to Tortola by a bridge. «Blessed be the hurricane! But not Irma but the one in 1995: I was a television producer who came here for the classic holiday, but a sudden hurricane prevented me from returning home. Having to make do, I was hosted by friends and so I met Aragorn, the man of my life. Once the hurricane stopped, I had to decide: return to the security of my job in Italy, or choose adventure and stay here? I chose adventure. It’s been almost thirty years and I can only say: thank you, Hurricane». Federica then made an award-winning documentary on the crossing of the Orinoco, a South American river, together with Aragorn aboard a small Aboriginal-style boat. Today they have an atelier where they exhibit their works: his sculptures and her paintings. Together they also have the Good Moon Farm, a farm that sells organic products.

In the shark nursery

The Aragorn of the British Virgin Islands has, not surprisingly, a brother called Faramir, another hero of The Lord of the Rings (things that happen, if your parents are big Tolkien fans). Faramir has an even more “original” job: naturalistic guide in a shark nursery, inside a mangrove forest on the island of Tortola. The cute little animals, just a few weeks old, splash around happily while the very tanned Faramir (who resembles the protagonist of the film Mr. Crocodile Dundee) tells the wonders of the ecosystem to visitors, happy to follow him in a kayak, baking in the sun for several hours (groundseabvi.com). A small natural paradise to be protected: Faramir has been fighting for years to prevent it from falling into the hands of a Chinese billionaire who would like to cement the area to make houses and shopping centres. And goodbye to little sharks and more.

Aiming for gender equality

Everyone has their battles. He lives in Virgin Gorda Sharon FlaxBrutus, strong personality, eyes with a flash of irony, golden curly hair and lips of the same color. «I was an entrepreneur, then the director of the Islands Tourism Board, then a politician, but in every situation, since I was a little girl, I have been an activist for women’s empowerment» says Sharon Flax-Brutus. It’s logical to ask you where gender equity stands here. «What do you think? Women in the lower levels of the public administration, men in the upper levels: until recently it was like this. But in the last elections something changed.” Sharon Flax-Brutus stops. For example? «For example, FrFor the first time, a capable woman has arrived in a top position: Deputy Prime Minister Lorna Smith. And now the situation is improving a little for women.” She stops again. Then, as if she were talking to herself: «Yes, it’s better, but I almost don’t believe it» she concludes. And there’s nothing to add. Not even in heaven.

How to get to the British Virgin Islands

From Milan Linate via Amsterdam to St Maarten with KLM return €820. klm.it From St Maarten to Tortola return €370. winair.sx

Where to sleep

Anegada Beach Club
In Anegada, wooden bungalows on stilts overlooking a white beach. No need for air conditioning – just the ocean breeze. Style almost Robinson Crusoebut with a small Spa. Double room in B&B from €430. anegadabeachclub.com

Rosewood Little Dix Bay
In Virgin Gorda, the elegant resort built by Laurence Rockefeller, philanthropist and ecologist, in the bay with which he fell in love. You ride a bicycle in tropical nature. Excellent restaurant. Luxurious cottage for two in B&B from €1000. rosewoodhotels.com

Where to eat in the British Virgin Islands

CocoMaya
In Virgin Gorda, to enjoy refined cuisine on the beach that blends Asia and the Caribbean. Don’t miss the fish tacos in mango sauce. Aperitif to try: The Buddha, based on rum and lime. The sunset over the sea is included in the price. cocomayavg.com

Cardamom & Co.
On Scrub Island, an island resort reachable by shuttle from Trellis Bay (Tortola). Gourmet dinner overlooking the marina. International breath and flavours, from filet mignon to lobster. scrubisland.com

What to buy

Aragorn’s Study
On Beef Island (Tortola), the workshop of the artist-ceramist Aragorn Dick-Read, managed by his wife Federica, a painter. In addition to their works, clothing, souvenirs and interesting books about the islands. aragornsstudio.com

The Pottery Garden
In Tortola, among lakes populated with pink flamingos, Cristel and Karl Burnett, ceramists of household objects, live and work. In their workshop they also give ceramic lessons. thepotterygardenvi.com

Callwood Rum Distillery
Still in the original 18th century building, the artisanal local rum distillery. callwood-cane-rum.myshopify.com

What to do

Groundsea Adventures
Hiking, surfing, paddle, kayaking, snorkeling. All outdoor activities in the lagoons among the mangroves, along the paths in the forest or on the splendid coral reef, guided by an expert naturalist. groundseabvi.com

Info British Virgin Islands

British Virgin Islands Tourist Board: bvitourism.com

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