Lhe story blew hard, unraveled the puzzle, and the pieces flew away. The dissolved mosaic is that of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugovia: after the wars of independence of the early nineties, it has generated “pieces” that now shine with their own light. We are geographically in the extended Balkan peninsulaa territory with a very complex character for the diversity of history, ethnic groups, languages, culture and religion of its populations. Just think that 11 states are part of it, among others Montenegro, Greece, Bulgaria and Albania.
But in what was former Yugoslaviarepublics were born that synthesize their uniqueness above all in the capitals, some still little known, that deserve to be explored because they reserve quite a few surprises for curious travellers, amidst history, art, and a widespread liveliness that you would not expect to find beyond the Adriatic. As to Ljubljana, Zagreb and Belgrade, perfect for carving out a long spring weekend.
Slovenia: in Ljubljana, where the bees buzz
A tremendous earthquake, a visionary architect and an enlightened mayor. It is the unusual triptych which reflects the essence of Ljubljana, reborn several times throughout its history. In recent times, the events that marked it the most were the earthquake of 1895, when the houses fell like dominoes in a crazy way; the avant-garde urban projects created in the 1920s and 1940s by the eclectic Ljubljana architect Joze Plečnik (1872-1957); and in the third millennium the new look impressed by mayor Zoran Janković who revolutionized the historic center with an eco-green footprint.
A view of Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia.
Ljubljana is thus to all intents and purposes a small, daring, innovative, and bee-friendly city. As part of a sustainable policy, 4,500 beehives have been installed in the historic core on the roofs of private houses, public offices and hotels, from which about a third of the honey produced in Slovenia is obtained. The love for bees is also revealed through the United Nations proclamation of “World Bee Day” on May 20, on the initiative of Slovenia, the planting (even in cities) of plants, aromatic herbs and flowers that favor the production of nectar, and the increase of apitourism with dedicated tours, including Ljubljana.
Ljubljana, what a beautiful Castle!
Ljubljana Castle, which has stood on a hill in the historic center since the 11th century.
The capital is crossed by the river Ljubljanica which in the ancient pedestrian hearta symphony of green spaces and elegant late 19th and early 20th century buildings, is the liquid leitmotif to discover the most iconic places between past and present. Starting from the Dragon Bridge dating back to 1901 characterized by four gigantic green dragons, the mythological animal that has become the symbol of Ljubljana; which they join the Triple Bridge formed by the historic central one from 1842 and two lateral ones designed by Plečnik between 1929 and 1932, a few steps from the main square Presernov trg; and the Butchers’ Bridge inaugurated in 2010 with sculptures by Slovenian artist Jakov Brdar.
This bridge is metaphorically the trait d’union between creative minds. On the one hand there is the mayor Janković who wanted it and who restructured-pedestrianized the adjacent streetia Petkovskovo nabrezje making it one of the places of Ljubljana’s nightlife thanks to the presence of numerous restaurants and clubs on the water’s edge, on the other hand the famous architect who designed in the 1940s the covered Central Market on the opposite bank of the river.
Taking up his tracks it is impossible not to come across the mighty building of the National and University Library, among his largest and best known architectural works. Built between 1936 and 1941, it has the unmistakable facade in red brick and stone, while the interior is dominated by the imposing staircase with black marble columns which leads to the reading room. But apart from the stone and concrete bequests of the brilliant Plečnik, cThere is much more to discover in Ljubljana. Like the Cathedral, the Tivoli park, and the Castle which has stood on a hill in the historic center since the 11th century and is among the most visited places in the capitalmuch loved by young people. Already because Ljubljana, with 300 thousand inhabitants, hosts about 60 thousand university students (most of the faculties are free) and is among the most requested for the European Union program for training-education financed with scholarships, Erasmus .
Croatia: the Central European charm of Zagreb
Overview of Zagreb. Photo by Alfio Garozzo.
The new year began with news reported by all the newspapers. From 1 January Croatia adopted the euro and joined the Schengen area. Farewell, therefore, to the exchange of money, to the kuna-euro conversion, and to stops at customs for identification. Novelties that encourage you to treat yourself to a trip to its capital, thehe surprising Zagreb with less than 800,000 inhabitants that combines the charm of Central European cities with contemporary ideas. A captivating mix revealed both in the “upper city” Gornij grad and in the “lower” Donij grad.
In the middle, between the two urban cores, stretches Trg bana Jelačića, the main square, considered one of the most beautiful in Europe. It is a vast rectangle animated at all hours of the day and night, which boasts ancient buildings in pastel colors and the mighty equestrian statue dedicated to Josip Jelačić (1801-1859) who was the ban of Croatia. From this city “living room” it takes just a few steps to immerse yourself in the scents of the Dolac farmer’s market with the characteristic red umbrellas or in the lively Tkalčićeva street, pedestrianized and full of small restaurants, or again, in the shopping of the six kilometer long Illica street and where the amusing Museum of Illusions opens.
Maksimir park, in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia.
Reaching (still in the lower city) via Praska you can relax in the green horseshoe, a belt of eight contiguous parks with squares, fountains, tree-lined avenues, buildings and museums that symbolize the city, such as the Music Pavilion, the Archaeological Museum and the Croatian national. The atmosphere changes in the upper city, the hilly historic core, entangled in narrow streets and slower rhythms. Here the star is the Church of San Marco (13th century) recognizable by the colored ceramic roof that reproduces the coats of arms of Zagreb and the Croatian Kingdom, while the fortified Lotrsčack Tower (13th century) offers a fantastic view of the city from the belvedere. Furthermore, the Tower is close to the bizarre Museum of Broken Relationshipsthat is, the Museum of Broken Relationships which exhibits items from around the world after the end of a love story
Belgrade, the pearl of Serbia
The church of Saint Petka in the Belgrade Fortress, the capital of Serbia.
What was the capital of Yugoslavia, is among the most complex cities of the Balkan Region. Belgrade, in fact, has a particular charm. It will be for the mix of cultures between East and West that have forged its character, it will be for the position at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, it will be for the architectural stratification at times magnificent and at times decadent, the capital of Serbia does not leave one indifferent.
In fact, wandering around this city with 1,200,000 inhabitants, the eye is captured above all by the mix of Art Nouveau buildings and Soviet brutalist-style buildings in reinforced concrete, large busy avenues and narrow streets of yesteryear, and by the many young people who live there. So if the usual starting point to discover it is piazza della Repubblica, the main one, dominated by the National Theatre (1869) and the equestrian statue of Prince Mihailo III, lhe square-opening Terazije is the area with designer boutiques and the prestigious Moskva hotel, while Kneza Milhaila is the long and very busy pedestrian street full of shops, bars, restaurants, overlooked by buildings of different styles. This road also leads straight to the Kalemegdan Park – much loved by Belgrade residents – stretched out at the foot of the Fortress, the ancient Roman-era citadel-fort that offers a spectacular view of the confluence of the two rivers from above.
The Orthodox Temple of Saint Sava, in Belgrade.
The atmosphere changes again in the old qbohemian district of Skadarlija, very attractive for nightlife. In exploring the capital, don’t miss visits to the Temple of St. Sava, the largest Orthodox church in the world; at the Nikola Tesla Museum; and the Museum of the History of Yugoslavia, formed by three museums, including the Casa dei Fiori with the tomb of General Tito.
Where sleeping in Ljubljana
B&B Hotel Ljubljana Park
Tabor 9.
Excellent 3-star hotel 10 minutes walk from the historic centre. It is an eco-green hotel of the French B&B chain. On the roof there are 4 hives for the production of honey. Double from €53. hotel-bb.com/en/hotel/ljubljana-park
Where to eat
breg
Berg 20.
Overlooking the river, informal atmosphere. Gourmet cuisine based on traditional dishes with creative touches, made with local products. breg-ljubljana.com
INFO: visitljubljana.com/en; slovenia.info/en
Where sleeping in Zagreb
Esplanade Zagreb Hotel
Mihanoviceva 1 –
In the lower town, near the train station. Luxurious hotel opened in 1925 along the Green Horseshoe. Art Deco and contemporary furnishings. Double from €195. esplanade.hr
Where to eat
Noel
Ulica Popa Dukljanina 1.
Opened in 2016, it won the first Michelin star in the history of Zagreb in 2019. In the kitchen the young chef Bruno Vokal who proposes traditional Croatian dishes revisited with flair. noel. hr
THENFO extension: infozagreb.hr; croatia.hr/it-it
Where sleeping in Belgrade
Zepter Hotel
Terazije br.10
Four stars in the centre, not far from Piazza della Repubblica. Modern furnishings, a good restaurant and panoramic roof terrace. Double from €198. hotelzepter.rs
Where to eat
Tri šešira
Skadarska 29.
It is the oldest restaurant in the bohemian Skadarlija district. Opened in 1864, it offers dishes of the Serbian culinary tradition. trisesira.rs
INFO: serbia.travel/en
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