AND the perfect time for South Dakota, in the heart of the American Midwest. On autumn days the sky is blue, the air becomes fresh and crisp and the yellow spots of the poplars color the green coniferous forests in a spectacular mix of colours. All around, large prairies, desert canyons and rivers that meander through the plains.
Wide and reassuring views. The Badlands National Park it is perhaps one of the most recognizable symbols of the State. Sculpted by wind and water, dotted with pinnacles, jagged ridges and canyons, it seems to suddenly emerge from nowhere. It’s wonderful to discover it by walking freely (always following the yellow pillars along the hiking trails so you don’t get lost).
The real emblem is located further south-west: the Mount Rushmore National Memorial, the four enormous sculptures carved into the rock depicting the faces of presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln. It is a celebration of American patriotism and a place of reflection on the sacred lands for the Lakota or Sioux, from whom the BlackHills, called “black hills” for the dense pine forests with incredible granite formations, were taken in the 19th century in violation of treaties signed with the federal government.
The desert mountains of South Dakota, United States. (Getty Images)
Among the herds of bison
Not far away stands another monument, under construction, of enormous cultural significance dug into a granite mountain: the Crazy Horse Memorialdedicated to Tashunka Witko, aka Crazy HorseLakota warrior famous for the victory of Little Big Horn (1876) against General Custer, one of the rare defeats of the US cavalry regiment. Once completed it will be the largest sculpture in the world, 172 meters high and 195 meters long. The enterprise, to date financed only by private funds and donations, was started in 1948 by the sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski to honor the history and culture of the Native American peoples. Today his two nephews Caleb and Vaughn Ziolkowski are carrying on the project. In addition to visiting museums full of memorabilia, you can climb up to the enormous excavation on board an off-road vehicle. It’s worth itthe emotion is immense.
The Crazy Horse Memorial, a giant sculpture under construction in the Black Hills. (Press Office)
As see the 1500 heads of the bison herd running wildly in the Custer State Parkin western South Dakota, kicking up an immense cloud of dirt as the ground shakes. A strong and engaging experience to live once a year during Buffalo Roundup, a sort of animal census, which after having almost risked extinction, with the useless massacres between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, now number almost 40 thousand specimens among parks, private ranches and Indian reserves. Cowboys and cowgirls on horseback shout and crack their whips in the air to lead the animals (owned by the state) towards the corral (enclosure), in front of the BisonCenter, for checks and vaccinations; then some items go to the highly anticipated auction on November 1st (bradeenauction.com). To see them and photograph them while they graze, you can travel the 18 miles of the Wildlife Loop Road, inside the park (without getting out of the car!). Despite their size, they are very fast: in five seconds they cross a football field.
Buffalo Roundup in South Dakota, like in the old west. (Press Office)
In the land of Sitting Bull
A great strength can be felt in the hills north of Deadwood, at the Tatanka interpretive center dedicated to the peoples of the Great Plainswith the reconstruction of Lakota camps, models, videos that narrate the traditions linked to the bison and a large outdoor work of art. Here Spotted Eagle, born 60 years ago on the nearby Lakota Reservation, tells the story of his ancestors and how important the buffalo (a misnomer for the American bison) was to them. The center was wanted (and financed) by Kevin Costner after having experienced the thrill of galloping, for the first time in about 100 years, among three thousand bison for the filming of the film Dances with wolves. «With this place I share the sense of respect for the power of these animals and the courage of those who have venerated and supported them for centuries» writes Costner in the epigraph at the entrance to the park. The artistic complex, outside the centre, of the sculptor Peggy Detmers is strikingwhich represents the hunting of bison by Lakota warriors, in a “bison jump” scene, the technique used in the past to capture them by causing them to fall from heights.
The nearby one is worth a stop Deadwoodsmall city with a big history. Became famous during the gold rushin 1876 it was just an improvised camp, with tents, barracks, saloons and lots of illegality: fights, murders, gambling, prostitution. Legendary figures such as gunslinger Wild Bill Hickok and the iconic Calamity Janeburied close together on the hill at Mount Moriah Cemeterycontributed to the myth of the Wild West that can still be felt along Main Street, teeming with casinos.
One of South Dakota’s best-known wolves, the portraits of four US presidents carved in granite on Mount Rushmore, sacred to the native populations. (Getty Images)
It is deep America, made up of enormous expanses and a few cities. As Rapid Citythe major urban center in western South Dakota (travelsouthdakota.com) And gateway to the Black Hills. Famous for the statues of North American presidents life-size on every street corner, it is able to satisfy every palate. There are many restaurants and just as many types of cuisine: Japanese, Mexican, Himalayan or fine dining at the Vertex Sky Bar.
Rodeo boots as souvenirs
At the edge of the mountains, in the small center of Wall, there is the Drug Store (walldrug.com), opened in 1931 by Mr and Mrs Hustead as a pharmacy. Then, during the Great Depression, business was slow and Dorothy had the idea of putting signs all around offering ice water. At the time the roads were not asphalted, cars drove under the scorching sun and the free cold water invited people to stop and buy souvenirs. It was the first step in the store’s expansion. In three generations they have gone from 55 to around 8 thousand square metres. They sell everything, especially all kinds of cowboy boots. The thermal waters of Mocassin Spring ( moccasinsprings.com ), small and relaxing, are worth a stop. Around Rapid City, where you land to learn about this vast land (greatamericanwest.it), one of the addresses for dinner isAlpine Inn in Hill City, authentic atmosphere and small-priced menu. The great European north merges with the American midwest Skogen Kitchenby Custer. A tour of the world of flavors in the legendary Far West.
The Wall Drug Store has been open since 1931 in Wall. (Press Office)
Where to sleep
Hotel Alex Johnson
523 Sixth Street, Rapid City. It is a historic hotel, opened in 1927 that combines authentic Native American furnishings with contemporary comfort. From the terrace on the top floor the view extends over the city. Double room from 100 euros alexjohnson.com
The historic Bullock Hotel
633 Main Street, Deadwood. The oldest in South Dakota, built in 1824 by Sheriff Seth Bullock. The decorations are inspired by the original ones. There is the casino. Double room from 95 euros. historicbullock.com
Horseback riding
at Badlands National Park. (Press Office)
What to buy
Prairie Edge & Sioux Trading Post
415, Sixth St., Rapid City. Original Native American art and handcrafted items such as jewelry, belts and souvenirs have been found here since 1957. Admire the large collection of Venetian glass beads used by merchants to trade
with the Sioux. prairieedge.com
Info
With Alidays (alidays.it) a week in South Dakota staying in a hotel in Rapid City and Deadwood, with unlimited mileage car rental prices starting from 1730 euros per person, excluding flights from Italy.