Trip to China. Jiangsu, at the roots of the Dragon

CKumiko walks gracefully, letting hers rustle hanfuthe traditional Chinese dress, embellished with intricate embroidery and designs. It’s like a floating embrace on the young girl with the porcelain face, expertly made up, her very black hair artfully collected, decorated with crowns, combs and jewellery. All accompanied by a parasol umbrella and a flirty silk fan. The unusual vision, in the old city of Nanjing, catapults us into the Han Dynasty period (206 BC-220 AD) when these clothes were widespread. A remote era, almost unknown to Westerners.

Then, looking closer, something doesn’t add up. The girl and her group of friends, dressed like her, are busy taking videos and selfies to post them on the Chinese social platforms WeChat, Weibo and Douyin. The ancient that rides modernity? It is the new Chinese trend of generation Z (those born between 1995 and 2010), an increasingly widespread phenomenon among young people: whether it is the rediscovery of the fashion tradition of the past or the social vanity of the Third Millennium, this trend generated over six million purchases of garments in 2020 hanfu, with a turnover of approximately 160 million dollars. Not to mention the proliferation of shops offering clothing rental and the related ad hoc make-up service. Even passing through the clothes of yesteryear, complex China never ceases to amaze. Like Jiangsu – eighty million inhabitants – one of the richest provinces in the Land of the Dragon, a perfect synthesis between the past and an already present future. Furthermore, this region, stretched along the eastern coast, is today closer to Italy: until 30 November 2024, a visa from Italy is not required and can be reached in less than 12 hours with direct flights of the Italian company Neos Air which offers connections every Monday from Milan-Malpensa to Nanjing (return cost from 740 euros and in the comfortable “premium class” from 1,280, neosair.it).

Jiangsu, evidence of sustainable development

The exploration, therefore, can only start from the capital of Jiangsu: Nanjing (Nanjing), capital of China until 1949, then Beijing took over. Founded on the delta of the Yangtze River – the third longest in the world – it has been recognized by both the central government and the United Nations as an excellent example of sustainable development. In fact, already at the first approach it does not escape the visitor that the “green” vocation also passes through the almost silence that can be felt despite the eight and a half million inhabitants. On the road, despite the heavy traffic, the noise of the engines is practically non-existent, almost muffled like in snowy scenarios. The reason? Simple, motorcycles and scooters are all electric and the cars (three out of five) are too, recognizable by their green license plates.

In this Southern Capital, the extreme cleanliness of the streets (not even a piece of paper on the ground), the obsessive care of plants and flowers in the gardens, the size and cult of the symbolic places is also surprising. Like the poignant Nanjing Massacre Memorialsurrounded by black walls and soft lights, dedicated to the massacre perpetrated by Japanese soldiers: between 1937 and 1938, in less than a month they massacred 300 thousand people.

You lighten your mood (and your view) by walking in the lively Old Town where the wooden houses from the early twentieth century and a section of the ancient walls stand outor, heading into the vast Buddhist temple Usnisa Palace, in the Niushoushan hill park. Inaugurated in 2015, it catches the eye for its white and modern architecture, for its vastness (it also includes six underground floors) and for the three thousand statues dedicated to Buddha. Impressive. So is the mausoleum of Dr. Sun Yat-sen (1866-1925), another place of devotion built at the foot of the Purple Mountain to pay homage to the national hero who defeated the Qing imperial government.

In Jiangsu, in the four seasons park

Nature also emerges forcefully in Jiangsu: powerful and energetic, with heterogeneous panoramas that form a spectacular patchwork of land and water, between rivers, lakes, hills and mountains. In this relaxing and expansive scenario, the centuries-old history of the province emerges in a jewel city where the work of man has not distorted nature. He is an example of this Yangzhouwhere the intrepid Marco Polo lived for three years. The city has housed the Geyuan Garden, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2014, considered among the four most famous gardens in China.. This is the former private residence of the authoritative Huang Zhiyun (1770-1836), a salt merchant who designed the garden taking inspiration from the four seasons. Among gigantic bamboos, centuries-old plants, flowers, rocks and small streams, you can also access the family “villa” made up of several buildings, courtyards and pagodas. Always in Yangzhou they are a reminder Slender West Lake, a huge green lung overlooking a lake and a riverand the China Grand Canal Museum, inaugurated in 2000 to tell the compelling story of the Grand Canal, a grandiose engineering work designed to connect the north and south of China. This 1,794 kilometer long water artery (whose origin dates back to 605 AD) is the longest artificial canal in the world and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2014. And water is still the protagonist in the ancient localities of Tong Li, Wuxi, Suzhou and Zhouzhuang. Quite close to each other, they are the most famous Chinese “water cities” entangled in a lace of canals, bridges, passages and old wooden houses. The urban layout of the four historic centers is similar and recalls our Venice a bit, but each has its own character and romantic atmosphere. A boat tour among the canals, at sunset, has a magical effect. TO Suzhouthe Suzhou Museum illustrates the history of the Ming and Qing dynasties, while the Gardens of the Humble Administrator (Zhuo Zheng Garden) are considered among the most beautiful of the “classical Chinese gardens”, based on the harmony between nature and the centuries-old noble residences.

An imperial kitchen

The magnificence of the historical places is combined with the cuisine of Jiangsu, considered among the most delicious in the whole state. So, no spring rolls and chicken with almonds, a must on menus in Italy, around here it’s a completely different story, or rather, a completely different taste. Not by chance Jiangsu cuisine was served to imperial families and is still the one most often offered at the official dinners of foreign Heads of State today. Thanks to the geographical position of the region, it is based on soups, vegetables, mussels, sea and freshwater fish. Refined and well-presented dishes, such as the exquisite “squirrel-shaped mandarin fish”, practically a work of art with a sweet and sour flavor. Unforgettable. But pay attention to etiquette: leaving part of the food intact on the plate is a welcome gesture, but if you practice the local “shoe” it means that the chef was not generous with the portions.

Where to sleep in Jiangsu

Najing Jumeirah Hotel
2 Yecheng Road, Jianye District, Nanjing. Designed by star architect Zaha Hadid, it is an elegant 5-star hotel from the well-known Dubai chain. Opened in 2018, it offers 261 rooms and modern furnishings, a spa and panoramic indoor pool on the 63rd floor. Amazing breakfast. Double room in b&b from €145. jumeirah.com/en/stay/ nanjing/jumeirahnanjing

Grand Metropark Hotel Suzhou
1355 Jinjhu Avenue, Suzhou.
In the modern center of Sozhou. Large hotel with Western-style amenities, with a good breakfast buffet. It’s a great base for exploring the charming old town which is about 15 minutes away by car. Double room in b&b from €90. suzhou. grandmetroparkhotel.com

Where to eat

Wonka Kitchen
H07 Huali Xiang, No. 1 Xihuaqiao Xiang (Riverside), Suzhou.
Lovely Asian-European style restaurant. Overlooking a canal, it also offers European dishes such as risotto, paella and pasta, of excellent quality. Ideal as an alternative to Chinese cuisine. diningcity.cn/en/suzhou/wonka_kitchen

Juna Liangxi Hotel
177 Zhongshan Road, Wuxi. The hotel has an elegant restaurant in an early twentieth century building. Furnishings with British touches and a superlative cuisine with refined dishes. junaliangxi.hotel00.com

What to buy

Suzhou
A stroll along Shantang Street, in the ancient and pedestrianized core of the city, is a must. Overlooking a canal, it is full of shops and shops for all-round shopping under the red lanterns.

INFO

For information on how to enter China, consult: visaforchina.cn/MIL2_IT

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