When Dutch trend researcher Jan Agelink wrote down his forecasts for the coming seasons, one thing quickly became clear to him: unconventional thinking and innovation are required. His trend presentation ‘Future Formulas’ therefore offers ingredients for a fashionable recipe that aims to help people function better in a world of polarization. FashionUnited took part online and summarized the trends.
Agelink began his talk with an artwork by Chinese-American painter Paul Chan. ‘Trisophia’ shows three black, air-filled tubes connected by arms, reflecting the push and pull that society finds itself in. People want to let go of each other, but they can’t, they have to get along. The expert emphasized that the context is more important than ever.
In his opinion, this is also reflected in the fashion world, which, according to Agelink, is changing. Smaller brands, schools, designers and consumers are having a changing attitude towards fashion. The appreciation of craftsmanship, materials and design is returning, but sustainability is also playing an increasingly important role. “Everything we have done so far has an impact,” says the forecaster, referring, among other things, to the European Green Deal to reduce greenhouse gas emissions to zero in the future. To all these events and influences, Agelink added three ingredients that form a recipe for shaping the fashion of the future.
‘Paradox Poetry’
The first ingredient relates directly to the feeling people are feeling in the face of current polarization – fear. To illustrate, Agelink cited the British exhibition ‘The Horror Show’, which examines ideas born under pressure that have contributed to creative rebellion over the past 50 years. Horror makes it possible to express fears, overcome them and imagine a different future. This message is translated into fashion through long, futuristic-looking silhouettes and surreal elements.
Similar to the ‘Destroyed’ trend a few seasons ago, ‘Paradox Poetry’ denim offers a big stage: it is upcycled, with the trousers becoming wider and wider. Jeans are combined with other denim materials or oversized tops to create new shapes. The use of suspenders, as with the Dutch denim brand G-star, also plays a striking role.
For a more futuristic, surreal look, ‘Paradox Poetry’ uses large prints and volumes. At the fashion show of the fashion label Jil Sander, the models wore dresses with enlarged cat motifs, while surrealism is also expressed through clothing items made into different shapes. The US designer Rick Owens already showed creations with unusual shoulder shapes at his last spring/summer show. Key colors for this theme are white, black and dark red.
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‘Clutter x Curiosity’
The fears of the first topic seem to be completely forgotten in ‘Clutter x Curiosity’. Agelink has summarized this positively connoted ingredient under the working title ‘Rainbow Healing’, because it uses rainbow colors, graphics, fun and imagination – like in a colorful book world.
In addition to bright colors and graphics, the focus is on the ‘hardcore handmade’ theme, which is particularly evident in the return of knitwear. This was already evident on the catwalk of the British fashion label JW Anderson last season. Knitted pieces were showcased, including a bright red and blue crochet dress. This topic also combines the power of craftsmanship with artificial intelligence. The technology, says Agelink, expands our creative horizons and makes us play with volumes and cutouts that push the boundaries of what is possible in everyday life. He calls it the ‘air cushion idea’. A sporty example is the orange raincoat from the Kolor fashion studio or designs from the Berlin-based fashion label Ottolinger.
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Lifestyle plays an important role in ‘Clutter x Curiosity’. A few years ago, people dedicated themselves entirely to the minimalist living method of Japanese consultant Marie Kondo. People are now turning away from this completely, says Agelink. Instead, you start to give things new meaning and make them more personal. “We are entering a new wonderland with all of our (collected) items.” In the fashion world, this means using clutter to create something new and beautiful. French luxury house Dior demonstrated this trend at the SS24 men’s fashion show in Paris with models walking the runway wearing hats made from repurposed jewelry.
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‘Cosmic Conscience’
‘Cosmic Conscience’ takes a journey back into prehistory. What if we had actually lived back then? Artificial intelligence enables realistic simulation. The lifestyle of the past serves as a source of inspiration. Knitwear and oversized shoes, as well as the color palette, play important roles. Dark colors such as brown, violet gray and moss green are reminiscent of camouflage, while influences from the ‘destroyed’ trend can also be seen. The archives of the British designer Feben, the Italian brand Diesel and the Japanese label Taakk provide insights.
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Another characteristic of ‘Cosmic Conscience’ is its approach to natural phenomena. Plants and animals are examined and their existence is integrated into a fashion product with a futuristic touch. They come to life in a figurative and natural way. Dutch designer Iris van Herpen, known for her futuristic creations, takes advantage of this.
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Image: ©Launchmetrics/Spotlight
Image: ©Launchmetrics/Spotlight
In summary, designers place great value on handcrafted creations using new techniques, inspired either by the past or a possible future. In 2025, appreciation of the earth will take an important place in the creative process and will manifest itself in the enhancement of garments through upcycling, but also in nature-inspired silhouettes created through the use of artificial intelligence.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Heide Halama.