«Mi are sitting / in a clearing of the time ». The verses of Federico Garcia Lorca – taken from poetry Echo of the clock – I am a brushstroke, almost metaphysical, of words on the essence of his native land. They dress like a glove too The scenarios of theAndalusia oceanicless frequented than the Mediterranean partthat of seaside tourism and tout-court fun. On this other part of the Spanish region is the Atlantic Ocean to flirt with the earth and shape its character, between long waves, high and low tide, wind and light. Just like a clearing of the time (and over time) it is invited to slow down and observe without haste.
It is perceived to Tarfathe southernmost point in Spain. The city is a surprise, The preconceptions of a place of “border” between two continents unknown. Tarifa looks in the eyes, beyond the Strait of Gibraltar, the black continent (The port of Tangier is 18 maritime miles, about 33 kilometers) and it has always been mutual fascination. A liaison imbued with creative contamination, history, multi -ethnic dishes, just take a walk in the historic center to realize it.
Among immaculate alleys and white alleys and houses, they open restaurateurs and stores stylish of clothing, crafts and furnishing accessories often with an African heart, spices, ceramics, fabrics. All activities that connote how much Tarifa is becoming increasingly lively and attractive.
Riding the waves
In this location, supervised by the massive shape of the Castillo de guzmán el buueno (X-XIII), meet and clash the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, dispensers of dilated thoughts beyond the liquid horizon line. And Soffiano -Spesso impetuous– The winds of Levante and Ponente, which swell the waves and ruffle the hats. The Tarifeña coast preserves an extraordinary heritage: approximately 38 kilometers of long golden beaches, wild and moved by high dunes, where the omnipresent wind is an irresistible call for surfing lovers, windsurfing and kitesurf. Not to be missed, theValdevaqueros beach with chiringuiti and centers for rental of tables, the big dune of Bolonia On the one hand and the profile of Africa opposite; Punta Palomas With its giant eucalyptus, maritime pines and the road that compete for the asphalt with the Rena.
Playa della Barrosa, in the municipality of Chiclana de la Frontera. FOto di Monica Vinella.
In the factory of garum
Head trafalgardominated by the great lighthouse and immersed in a powerful nature, leads us to feel out of the world. Another vibrant scenario, near the Playa de Boloniaamong the most beautiful in Spain, gives it The Archaeological site Belo Claudia. The ocean in front of the ocean, behind the silent green landscape with sheep with pasture, in the middle is stroll through the ruins of the city founded in the second century AC by the Roman emperor Claudioto increase trade with North Africa, especially with tuna fishing. Walking on the ancient basalt, the imperial city with a glorious past is testified by temples, columns, spas and shops-workshops where it was produced and sold the most precious product of the time: the garumthe fermented fish sauce of which the Romans went crazy. The adjacent museum deepens the genesis of this spectacular city on the sea.
A glimpse of the village of Vejer de la Frontera.fOto di Monica Vinella.
These houses look like sugar
We change scenario a Vejer de la Fronteraone of the most attractive pueblos blancos of Andalusia, the white villages that stand out like Zollette of sugar among the hilly folds of the region. The village, surrounded by walls and dominated by the brown mole of the Castle (X-XI century), is A cascade of milk-colored houses harnessed in a maze of streets that chase each other in a continuous salv.. Vejer captures photos and selfies in its most iconic places: The Alley of the nunswith arches with exposed bricks; theto Church of the Divine Salvatore (14th century) in Gothic-Mudéjar style; And Spanish square of the 16th century, embellished in 1955 by a fountain with Siviglian -inspired ceramics.
“Ponte” (2004) by Shen Yuan at Fundación Montenmedio Contemoránea, near Vejer de la Frontera. FOto di Monica Vinella.
Among the works of art oper air
A curiosity: in the village the bronze sculpture of a woman with the Cobijadablack and long traditional dress – a sort of full tunic – which leaves only the left eye discovered. The garment (dating back to the seventeenth century) according to some historical sources is of Castilian origin. Wared until 1936, it was forbidden by Franco’s dictatorship for fear that we could conceal weapons under the clothes. Remaining in the area, the peculiar Fundación Montenmedio Contemoránea (Fundacionnmac.org/en), in a park of 30 hectares with sand paths and maritime pines, houses 24 monumental works of art outdoorsmade by international artists such as Marina Abramović, Maurizio Cattelan or James Turrell, whose works focus on the perception of light and space.
A glimpse of the back of the Cathedral of Cadiz. FOto di Monica Vinella.
The queen of the coast
Continuing north, here’s Cadice the queen of Costa de la Luz. Founded by the Phoenicians around 110 BC With the name of Gadir (Gades for the Romans), he played a primary role on the Atlantic coast. Today it is default and still not invaded by tourist flows. Yet, among the pages of its history, important events emerge: Cristoforo Colombo sailed from here for the second and fourth journey to the New World, in 1493 and 1502; And always in Cadiz in 1812 the first Spanish Constitution was proclaimed. There are numerous monuments that must be proud, like the eighteenth century Cathedral with the unmistakable yellow dome; the neighbor Roman theater (70 BC); or, the archaeological complex of Obispo house. And then there are the many squares of the historic center, such asPlaza de San Juan de dios, Plaza de la Mina And Plaza San Antoniowhere the most authentic and lively spirit of Cadiz, among the “bar de tapas” with the tables outdoors, palm trees and ancient buildings are captured.
The lighthouse and the beach of Capo Trafalgar. FOto di Monica Vinella
Vamos in La Playa
Without forgetting the urban beaches, in the long run Playa de la Victoriacontrasts the little girl The caleta protected at two ends from Santa Catalina Castle and from San Sebastian Castleis the most loved place at sunset by the young Gaditanos. Heading further north, you come to Jerez de la Fronterawith an ancient city embellished with the monumental silhouette of the Baroque Cathedral of Christ Salvatore (XVI-XVII century) and ofAlcázar (XII century) The Moresca fortress. Here too Stradine and Piazzette are a delight, but the town is also known for flamenco, horses, MotoGP circuit and Sherry, more or less sweet liqueur wine. In Jerez among the best known distilleries there is the Bodega Tio Pepe – Gonzáles Byass (tiopepe.com/es-es/bodega) owner of the Calle Ciegoscobbled road covered with a pergola of screwsopen only during the times of the company store.
Copy of the statue of Emperor Trajan on the Archaeological site Belo Claudia. Photo by Monica Vinella.
Sweet as the Sherry
Following the scent of the amber liqueur About 25 kilometers at the mouth of the Guadalquivir river it turns out Sanlúcar de Barramedaoutside the classic tours. Magellano knew her well who sailed from his port in 1519 to carry out the first circumnavigation of the globe. To make the town unique, in addition to the collected historic center and the Sherry cellars (Bodegas Barbadillo is excellent), are the environments that are the result of its position, at the intersection of river and ocean. Sanlúcar It is one of the doors of the Doñana National Parkamong the largest in Spain (54,252 hectares). Extraordinary mosaic of ecosystems, from the swamps to the pine forests, to the fossil dunes, as well as refuge of the Iberian lynx and the imperial eagle, especially in danger of extinction. The protected area visits independently, or with organized tours in jeep and boat. Unique experiences between exciting scenarios of land and water, peculiarities dilated throughout oceanic Andalusia. Exploring this territory, the words of Auguste Renoir emerge: “When it comes to a landscape, I love those paintings that make me want to get into it to go for a walk”. Just like in the enchanting Spanish region.
Where to sleep in the Atlantic andalusia
Hipotels Barrosa Park, Avenida Amilcar Boat 8, Chiclana de la Frontera. 4 -star hotels, about thirty kilometers from Cadiz, with modern furnishings, swimming pool and sea front location on the Barrosa beach. Double from 177 €. hipotels.com/hoteles/barrosapark
Hotel Bodega Tio Pepe, Plaza de la Encarnación 1, Jerez de la Frontera.boutique Hotel a few meters from the cathedral. Panoramic terrace with swimming pool, 27 rooms and contemporary furnishings. It is part of the homonymous winery of Sherry. Double from 325 €. Tippepe.com/es-es/hotel
Where to eat
El Jardín del Califa, Plaza de España 12, Vejer de la Frontera. In a historic building, a scenographic restaurant with internal patio. On Middle Eastern-Eastern-Arab-based dishes menu: cous-cous, tajine, falafel, hummus. It is also a charming hotel with 20 rooms.Califavejer.com/ El-Jardin-del-Califa
El Cuartel del Mar C/Bajada de la Torre del Pueco S/n, Playa de la Barrosa, Chiclana de la Frontera. Restaurant on the sea, Andalusian design and cuisine furnishings with creative touches: tuna in different variants, red prawns, pargo fried at the Andalusa. Elcuardeldelmar.azoteagrupo.com
What to buy
Harmony, Avenida Andalucía 10, Tarifa. Quality Andalusian craft shop, with unique hand -made pieces: ceramics, rugs, cushions covers, blankets. ar-monia.com
Info
Direct flights to Malaga and Seville with Ryanair, Easyjet and Wizz Air.