While it seemed at Edwin van den Hoek’s last trend seminar that the crisis the world is going through would soon be coming to an end, at the trend seminar for S/S24 the trend researcher had to realize that one crisis was being replaced by many others became. The war in Ukraine, inflation and the energy crisis are leaving their mark on the world, but Van den Hoek is looking for the positive. “We rise from the tumult and make our voices heard.”
Every week there are reports of protests, demonstrations and strikes in the media. The world is clearly making itself heard on many fronts. The climate, Iran, the wages – protests and propaganda therefore appear in many collections and trends, as well as the elements of transformation, discovery and redefinition. The latter three themes are therefore the main themes in Van den Hoek’s prognosis and are all intertwined.
FashionUnited rounds up some insights from the SS24 seminar.
Transformation, discovery and redefinition in spring/summer 2024
The first topic that the trend researcher mentions is the topic ‘Transform’. A movement in fashion that is being resurrected is literally transforming clothing and fabrics. The repairing and upcycling of clothing, as well as patchwork and the joining together of different patterns is an important part of the trend picture. This is a movement that has been going on for several seasons, but each time it returns in a different way. “It’s starting to become a whole new design philosophy,” explains Van den Hoek, and so the design is constantly changing.
The transformation of clothing and fabrics is also related to re-evaluation in fashion. Bottega Veneta, for example, recently introduced the motto “value over quantity” and offers something like a lifetime guarantee on the brand’s bags through a repair offer. Second-hand is also increasingly being taken up by companies and integrated into their business model. A tension arises: Do we regard old clothes as valuable or as waste?
The workwear trend is far from over and is also taking on new forms. Van den Hoek describes the jumpsuit as an important item for S/S24. The cargo pocket element, seen in boilersuits, among others, is extended to vests and trousers as well. According to Van den Hoek, the fact that camouflage patterns have become a basic color in men’s fashion speaks against the trend. However, for Summer 2024, the camouflage print returns in new colors and in a more graphic way. At the same time, men’s fashion welcomes more uneven and frayed edges as part of the transformation theme.
Men’s fashion for S/S24: A summer full of layering
The second theme can be summarized with the word ‘explore’. You want to explore the world, but also other worlds. This theme therefore tends towards the futuristic. “It’s futuristic but also fun, simple, almost gimmicky.” So within this theme there are a lot of graphic elements and even playful graphics. Think, for example, of the brushstrokes on Zegna shirts and sweaters.
A notable aside by Van den Hoek on this subject is that other collar styles are becoming increasingly important in menswear. Instead of the traditional button-down collar, you see more stand-up collars. In this way, van den Hoek’s S/S24 image is literally layered. Although it’s the trend picture for summer, there are many layered looks to discover.
Men’s fashion S/S24: “Maybe we need a new language”
What has been happening in menswear for a number of years is the redefinition of what is masculine. “These are turbulent times for men, because what is a man?” Van den Hoek says that this change and this issue has not yet reached everyone, but changes are already clearly visible. For example, consider outerwear brand The North Face, which launched a jacket that included a child carrier. “It shows the soft side of man.”
These changes in the definition of what it means to be a man and what is masculine may require a new language, says Van den Hoek. Elements that have been associated with women’s fashion for decades or even centuries can now also be found in men’s fashion. For example transparent fabrics, but also a men’s skirt. “Years ago a skirt was incorporated into a men’s collection and that was groundbreaking at the time, but now we’re seeing it more often.” Styling through a skirt over pants is also common, and so the prediction of S/S24 layering in the Looks, back again.
This article was similarly published on FashionUnited.nl. Translation and editing: Barbara Russ