The “historical romance” trend isn’t necessarily a novelty, but it could be described as the current antidote to “quiet luxury”. Chiffon, tulle, voile and lace are used in large, luscious volumes reminiscent of Victorian-era crinolines. Many think of black when it comes to Queen Victoria’s fashion, but society ladies wore brightly colored dresses before the death of Prince Albert, the Queen’s beloved husband.
Rei Kawakubo: a pioneer of the ‘historical romance’ trend
The look has been around since the 1980s when Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons pioneered the style.
Likewise, Vogue editor and fashion journalist Lynn Yaeger is a well-known and avowed fan of the historical novel style.
Historical Romance in London
In recent years, young British designers such as Emma Chopova, Laura Lowena and Simone Rocha seem to have drawn inspiration from Victorian gothic novels such as Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights, as well as the venerable British houses of Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. In addition to the expected black, they show voluminous models in a variety of colors, including pink, yellow and green.
When actress Jodie Comer strutted around in a lush pink dress as Villanelle on TV show Killing Eve, everyone wanted to know more about designer Molly Goddard. Since then, she’s been one of the biggest names on the London Fashion Week calendar.
The London Fashion Week calendar for SS24 has already been announced, and several designers known for their interpretation of ‘historical romance’ are in on the action.
Bora Aksu
Bora Aksu will present his SS24 collection during this year’s London Fashion Week on September 15th. Last fall, the Turkish designer sent a long, romantic pink satin dress with balloon sleeves and a square neckline with black voile and lace overlay down the catwalk.
Molly Goddard
Also at London Fashion Week is Molly Goddard, who will be showing her latest collection on September 16th. She, too, has often relied on “historical romance” and presented, for example, in FW2019 a bright pink dress with a lavishly decorated top and a layered skirt over black trousers.
Last spring, the designer revisited the romantic style, presenting a red and ivory toile de jouy long dress with ruffle trims under a chiffon layer with red polka dots.
Simone Rocha
Not only Goddard, but also Simone Rocha will present her latest collection in London. Her show will take place on September 17th. For Spring/Summer 2022, the gothic-inspired designer presented a long dress with a floral blurry print and ruffles over a pink embellished petticoat and white ruffled petticoat.
A season later, in Autumn/Winter 2023, a long, sheer chiffon dress with balloon sleeves, embellished with crystals and pearls followed.
earthm
Like Simone Rocha, Erdem Moralioglu will walk the runway for his SS24 collection on September 17th. Last summer, the designer wore an embroidered velvet jacket layered under a chiffon layer over a baggy black mesh tulle skirt with a tiered petticoat.
Chopova Lowena
Designer duo Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena from the Chopova Lowerna brand are also at London Fashion Week, presenting their collection on September 15th. In the summer of 2023, they sent a long, white ruffled dress with a red print, a round neckline and short puff sleeves and a ruffled body with a dark red contrast print down the catwalk.
This translated and edited post previously appeared on FashionUnited.com