From Shanghai Fashion Week to Chic Shanghai fashion fair, just a few weeks after China opened its borders to foreign visitors, the country’s fashion industry is picking up steam again. Shanghai is leading the way, championing local design and craftsmanship, thereby exerting a strong influence on the entire fashion scene in China. Both events took place in the last week of March. The Chic Shanghai fashion fair in particular offered a comprehensive overview of the current situation on the Chinese market.
At the event, which took place from March 28th to 30th, almost 1,300 exhibitors were represented in an area of 117,200 square meters. It is the first time since 2019 that the fair has opened its doors after being forced to close due to the pandemic – but its impact has remained unchallenged.
The exhibiting brands took the opportunity to present their products. Looking at the designs and trends, it becomes clear how the last three years have influenced the industry and also how the design and customer values have changed in the face of the difficult times. Especially young people who are in a formative period of life, it was a time when they found out who they are or who they want to be. The trends emerging from this young age group have been heavily influenced by what the pandemic has taken from them. Now they are either returning to traditional values or going out into nature to explore the world.
FashionUnited has compiled the top three trends from Chic Shanghai that are defining the Gen Z audience in China and their values today.
Guochao – traditional values
‘Guochao’ – also known as a national trend – has taken hold on the youth scene in 2020. Since then, however, the trend has taken on a new form as customers increasingly engage with themselves and their individual style. Originally, ‘Guochao’ referred more to the older generations, but Gen Z and Millennials have started to redefine the trend for themselves. The term itself stands for clothing that takes up the traditional Chinese design aesthetic – albeit in a modernized form. Consumers have turned to brands and values that are more connected to their own culture. In the past, ‘Guochao’ appeared closer to historical design techniques, but under the gaze of the younger clientele, the trend has shifted to more subtle expressions of traditional design. The result is clothing that has modern details and can be integrated into a modern wardrobe.
This new twist on the trend, triggered by generational change, means that many younger customers prefer local brands. They are turning away from well-known, global brands and towards local labels because they embody their ideals and represent their culture. These local brands were highlighted at the show in a dedicated area right at the entrance to the venue. Labels and retailers specializing in the ‘Guochao’ trend were represented in 13 exhibition areas and presented elaborate, technical garments with embroidery and classic silhouettes. Also among the exhibitors were Shi San Yu and Double Seventh. Both fashion designers have a large following on social media and their stands were visited by numerous young visitors. In order to continue to operate in their niche, labels from this area are mainly represented online and rarely physically present.
Songchi Gan – casual women’s fashion
Another trend that is also getting a lot of attention on social media is ‘Songchi Gan’. A trend closely linked to convenience. The term ‘Songchi’ refers less to clothing and more to a way of life. This is typically embraced by younger consumers who are breaking with rigid beauty ideals and norms and adopting a more relaxed, confident attitude. This attitude has of course also been reflected in fashion. In the form of effortless looks that focus more on comfort than style. This is particularly evident in the use of plus sizes and relaxed fits, subtle tones, minimalistic details and monochromatic color palettes.
A whole range of brands picked up on this trend at the fair. First and foremost the Calm Breeze label, which aims to bring people and nature into harmony. The brand uses a variety of traditional Asian production techniques, such as batik, uragiri – the ‘carving’ of materials – and wabi-sabi, a Japanese philosophy about finding value in imperfection and creating a collection of loose-fitting and comfortable clothing to find the repair of objects. Another brand embracing the ‘Songchi Gan’ trend is bag label Wow-In. Its selection of accessories is based on the idea of offering user-friendly, lightweight products that are both simple and practical.
gorpcore
Like everywhere else in the world, the pandemic has sparked a desire among Chinese consumers to explore nature and break free from the constraints of their home. In response, urban consumers in particular have begun to combine their urban lifestyle with their need to be in nature. The result? A mix of everyday wear and outerwear with fashion statement pieces. At Gorpcore, practical and functional garments play a fashion role. So they can be worn in everyday life as well as on certain occasions. It’s about the interplay of performance and style.
This trend was initially triggered by increasing collaboration with well-known international brands such as The North Face and Supreme. The labels at Chic Shanghai went one step further and introduced more fashion elements into their looks. For example, brand Tiform featured a dress with a mesh hoop skirt paired with a waterproof jacket, drawing crowds throughout the day. This aesthetic continued throughout the brand’s collection, in which different outdoor silhouettes took on new forms in the form of on-trend fashion statements. The label Guan Xuan also combined different styles by combining its puffer jackets and lined coats with flowing floral and silk skirts, thereby changing the perception of natural clothing again.
This translated and edited post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Pia Schulz