He legendary Pinotxo has reopened with the essence, the family of Jordi Asín Bayén, and two absences: Joan Bayén, alias Pinotxo, and the Boqueria. The good reader already knows, at this point, the hustle and bustle of the tribune and the courts: Juanito sold the business behind the back of his nephew, Jordi; He died unexpectedly and there is a dispute between the new owner and those who were the driving force of the bar. Because Juanito was the image and the charismathe flag with a vest and bow tie, but who Those who ran the stoves were the Asín.
The new Pinotxo has found its place in another market, that of Sant Antonialso in one of the entrances, a necessary magnet to attract customers, and has grown to occupy four positions, of the 18 to 21with the letters that Mariscal designed at the top.
Pinotxo
Sant Antoni Market. Barcelona
Positions: 18 to 21.
Tel: 933.171.731
Average price (without wine): €25
Everything is new: the pristine cuisine, the environment without those tourist crowds that make La Boqueria a traffic jam. pilgrims with flip flops, maybe even the diners, incorporating new faces attracted by the ‘signing’ of Sant Antoni.
And the reunion with the regulars who seek the kitchen that ‘is’ on the market. In the murky concept of ‘market cuisine’ – where is it from? From the laundry? – this is the genuine one.
I talk to Jordi and he explains his nerves (“expectations are very high”), but he feels confident with the solidity of the repertoire dishes: the ‘capipota’, the beef stew, the squid, the chickpeas with black sausage… And the ‘xuixo’ from Lis pastry shop.
At Pinotxo, opened back in 1940, Jordi’s grandmother cooked, Katherine; Mother, Maria; the brother, Albert; and now, he, his son Dídac and Xavi Robleda. Complete the team, today as yesterday, María José Díez, in charge of the desserts and the family unit. “Here everyone does everything: it’s like the circus, the show must go on,” hums Jordi.
Pinotxo is new and it is oldit is that steel that shines and it is those chickpeas that resist the uncritical push of the avocado toast.
I occupy a stool at the bar during the first meal, Tuesday at noon, a kind of baptism, so the Torelló bubbles spill out in celebration. About twenty seats, some high tables and the tension, with the best of humor, of the beginnings.
Jordi says that he lacks this or that, that he has to know the power of the griddle, that he hasn’t had time to finish dishes: “We work more widely and we no longer have to ask for permission to pass.” Step-step-step. And a lot of people, people waiting. And two Asians and two French, the crowd finds out everything right away. And a lady who crosses and says: “How nice to see Pinotxo here”. Sant Antoni ‘on fire’.
Jordi had a phrase, which he has modified: “This is a small bar, but with the largest warehouse”. He was referring to the market. Now there are two stores: Boqueria and Sant Antoni, since you buy in both souks.
I’m going to the classic, to what makes Pinotxo, Pinotxo: Grandma Catalina’s ‘capipota’, “the oldest dish”, and beef stew, also with the same sentimental origin. “I copy!” Jordi says. Copy Maria, copy Catalina, copy wisdom, and time.
The ‘capipota’ has a peculiarity: it has raisins and pine nuts, something that I already highlighted in the past. The cut of beef is blood sausage, stewed with potatoes.
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Casseroles, casseroles and that ‘wok’ that flames and from which the squid with ‘mongetes’. “I put them on you with ‘allioli,’ and he draws a couple of lines and it’s fantastic. There are clients, there are clients!, who ask for balsamic vinegar: They should be evicted from the stool.
Getting here has been arduous, discouraging, painful and it is now exciting. Juanito is no longer there, Pinotxo continues.
The team
Jordi Asín, María José Díez, Dídac Asín, Xavi Robleda and Luis Romero.