In the search for more sustainable alternatives for textile production, innovative minds in the industry have come across many a creative solution – some of them with a surprise effect.
Human waste was a key theme among exhibitors at the MaterialDistrict trade show, which returned to Utrecht, the Netherlands, from April 5-7 after a two-year break due to the pandemic. Between stands of experienced manufacturers and established companies, a number of innovative participants will present their concepts – many of which are still in the development stage.
Particular attention was paid to waste of human origin – a material that already exists and does not require new resources.
Many people turn up their noses at the thought of introducing human waste into the product manufacturing process, as the methods often sound unconventional, oddly unnatural, or downright alien. On closer inspection, however, human waste can be a valid alternative for making new textiles, as it is often easy to obtain and offers a range of benefits that require little else to be done.
“Waste is just a raw material in the wrong place…”
One particularly surprising innovation was the use of human hair to make clothing – a concept pioneered by Zsofia Kollar, the founder of the Human Material Loop. In a presentation at the event, Kollar explained the urgent need for environmentally friendly material and questioned why the world often overlooks the waste options that already exist. Kollar’s approach is human hair. With the Human Material Loop, Kollar has integrated hair into a closed-loop recycling system, turning it into yarn that can be used to make clothing. With this idea, the 72 million kilograms of hair that end up in landfills in Europe alone can be reused.
“The solution is in our heads,” Kollar said in her presentation. “Trash is just a raw material in the wrong place.” The innovator said she wondered why we weren’t already using a material like hair, which is already such an important part of our lives and also contains the same keratin fiber as wool. She also pointed out that the product is 100 percent biodegradable, has a near-zero carbon footprint and does not harm animals or humans in its manufacture.
The event’s moderator, David Heldt, co-founder of Glue Amsterdam, expressed his concerns and some hesitation about the idea, but Kollar remained unimpressed and replied: “We are so far away from the materials we already use today. For example, if you look at your wool sweater, have you ever thought about how the sheep lived, how it was tortured, how much blood was shed to make that fluffy sweater. Isn’t it strange that we just forget that?”
Following the presentation, when asked by FashionUnited if she was regularly asked about the legality of using hair in production, Kollar said: “Absolutely. There is a persuasion phase where people need to know a little bit about the background of the problems in the textile industry. Once they know these facts, they are quite convinced. You just need some time to internalize that. My work is all about changing perspectives and challenging the perception of norms.”
Although the concept is still in its early stages, Kollar said she is currently in talks with various high-end brands to potentially bring the material to a commercial level. “We want to convince the high-end brands to show a different perspective first, so later it’s easier to convince the average consumer,” Kollar said. “People need to see that we’re not above the ecosystem, we’re above it are equal.”
The Human Material Loop products are currently made in Italy, but Kollar told FashionUnited that she plans to make the process available in every country to ensure local production. “We just want to reach as many people as possible.”
Human bodies as a breeding ground for nature
A similar approach to dealing with human waste was taken by Dutch innovator Michelle Baggerman, who works with materials designer Jessica den Hartog as part of Studio Bureau Baggerman. The duo presented Project Chrysalis, a concept that turns plastic waste into yarn. Although Baggerman’s idea is currently only being considered as an interior design product, it is an important element of alternative textile production.
While polyester is already widely used in recycling processes, plastic is being used less frequently – prompting Baggerman to look into its use. Baggerman’s approach is in an early stage of development, which is why she is currently looking for partners to further push the development, she told FashionUnited: “We are just focusing on the material at the moment – what quality it is and if we can use it in bigger able to make scale.”
Baggerman, who has been working with plastic for five years, said it’s important to talk about the use of human waste in textile production because we often don’t see it as a material, even though we use it every day. “The future is thinking about what we can do with the materials we already have, what colors there are and how we can use them,” she said.
Although there are currently no concrete plans to use the material in the fashion industry, probably due to its rather rigid nature, Baggerman’s project represents an interesting approach to circular textile production and the potential our waste offers. “When you’re a designer, you have to think about these things,” she added.
Another unusual idea that was presented was the concept of using the human body to make a difference to the environment. Afterlife, a project in development by Dutch designer Charde Brouwer, took up this idea with a concept that sees our own body as a breeding ground for nature. Through her research, Brouwer found a way to repair the world around us even after we die, using biodegradable materials in clothing that can stimulate nature’s growth and help it rebuild.
“What if we could give back with our last breath?” Brouwer said when presenting the project. “After we died, the earth could still use our bodies for sustenance. By combining a material with our bodies, we can we turn an ending into a beginning.”
Brouwer questioned that we burrow into polyester and dig up trees to then bury them back into the ground – a process that is not currently circular. The materials Brouwer creates have a leather-like texture, are flexible enough to create a garment, and are colored with natural ingredients found in vegetables and fruits.
Brouwer’s idea, which is still in the early stages, is to offer a fully customizable experience, allowing the wearer or family to choose the colors and patterns of the material, in addition to using flower seeds that are included in the finished garment and eventually grow where the person is buried. Although the subject matter is somber, Brouwer believes this method will change the meaning of cemeteries and bring new meaning to the afterlife.
Although many concepts for the use of human waste are still in their infancy, the potential of reusing these existing materials that surround us every day is becoming clearer. Although many of these creators are challenged not only by their experiments but by the reactions of outsiders, they are determined to change our perspectives – in the hope that the industry will finally see a usable material instead of waste.
This translated and edited post previously appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translation and editing: Karenita Haalck