StDid you know that in the month of December five different varieties of truffle grow at the same time? The White, the precious black, L’ Hooked, the Bruise them and the Macrosporum. Each is a unique piece. A small masterpiece of perfume and taste. You have been warned that the truffle it is not kept in rice but in the fridge, in a glass jar and wrapped in paper towels to be replaced every day? For once, the “tradition” does damage. And, then, have you ever read that this underground fungus is born when the plant is in pain, giving it mineral salts and receiving sugars in exchange? A wonderful, perfect symbiosis.
The five varieties of truffles that grow in December.
The menu is fragrant
Like the one with the menu, unique and not repeatabledesigned for the special appointment with the “Vertical of truffles”, devised by Apennines Food Group with the aim of improving the knowledge of the fabulous underground mushroom: few know that Italy «is the only country in the world where most of the edible truffle species grow, both in terms of variety and quantity» says the founder Luigi Dattilo. This year the event, in its second edition, was still held From Victor, three Michelin stars in Brusaporto (Bg), and in the other four restaurants of the group (Da Vittorio Shanghai, DaV Mare, New Wave by Da Vittorio and Il Carpaccio). Different truffles, extracted at different depths of the earth, all to be (re)discovered.
The Cerea Brothers have skilfully played with surprising, fragrant combinations of taste: open applause for the five truffles (but in nature, sometimes, there are even six varieties), all equally protagonists in different roles. From Vicciola tartare, hazelnut praline and Macrosporum truffle (where vicciola is Piedmontese beef and the Macrosporum has a slightly garlicky taste) to the sherry-glazed langoustine, chestnut purée and potato sauce and Uncinato truffle (which has hints of hazelnut and is widely used in French cuisine), from Risotto with cauliflower, bacon and prized white truffle to dessert “Do you want truffles? Look for it!”, with Brumale with a strong and intense taste.
Chef Bobo Cerea (left) preparing the menu.
Truffle in all sauces
It’s not just about gourmet treats, perhaps to be “collected” as gifts under the Christmas tree. At the end of 2021 the truffle has been decreed by Unesco “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”. And immediately, according to Dattilo, it will have to be thought of in a more inclusive way: «Not only autumn and winter, not only white truffles, but multiple expressions of taste and origin. The truffle is present all year round». And for every pocket. Of course, it is no coincidence that the “Vertical” takes place in December, the busy month, and “hopefully it bodes well for the establishment of a International Truffle Day» explains Dattilo, who has transformed the artisan workshop created as a boy (as soon as he came of age, he asked for a slender-nosed pointer as a gift instead of a new car!) into a company that from Savigno, on the Bolognese Apennines, exports everywhere on the Planet . From the (almost) unattainable fresh white of the day to sauces for pasta, to chocolate with truffles. Another way of saying Made in Italy.
Luigi Dattilo, founder of the Appennino Food Group.
The truffle recipe of “Da Vittorio” for me donna.it
Stuffed gnocchi with a heart of fondue and white truffle
Stuffed dumpling with fondue heart and “Da Vittorio” white truffle.
Ingredients for 4 people
For dumplings
125 g of potatoes
65 g of 00 flour
50 g of grated Grana Padano
60 g of cow ricotta
nutmeg
1 egg
5 l of vegetable broth
20 g of butter noisettes
salt and pepper
For the fondue
100 g of fresh fontina cheese (unseasoned)
30 g of grated Parmigiano Reggiano
30 g of cooking cream
1⁄2 yolk
To serve
butter noisettes
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano
white truffle (about 5-7 g serving)
For dumplings, boil the potatoes in their skins. When cooked, mash them with a potato masher directly on the pastry board where you have placed the flour, grated cheese, ricotta, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix well by adding the egg and butter noisettes. Let the dough thus obtained rest in the refrigerator. With the help of a sheeter for fresh egg pasta, roll out the dough to a thickness of about 0.5 cm and cut out discs of about 6-7 cm in diameter.
For the fondue, cut the fontina cheese into cubes, put it in a saucepan with the grated cheese and cream and melt everything in a bain-marie, at a low temperature to prevent the fat from separating; stir continuously and as soon as the mixture is well blended and stringy, add the yolk, incorporating it well. Put the fondue in a container and let it cool in the refrigerator, then form balls of about 14 g each.
Arrange the fondue balls in the center of the dough-dumpling discs and close each disc forming a regular ball, being careful not to break the dough. Cook the gnocchi in the broth and as soon as they float to the surface, drain them with a slotted spoon, transfer them to plates (4-5 per portion), then coat them with butter noisettesgrated cheese and slices of truffle.
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