The task of a trend researcher is not easy in these turbulent times. With so much uncertainty in the world, it is difficult to look ahead, admits Jan Agelink from the Dutch agency Buro Jantrendman in his online seminar for the autumn/winter 2023 season: “It’s a big story because so much is happening .” Fortunately, the presentation shows that consumer trends and themes can also be found in the current turbulent world. FashionUnited has selected a few highlights.
Those who have followed several trend talks throughout the season will recognize some of the themes and trends Agelink has discovered. The first topic is about the “nomad look”. It is characterized by a combination of denim, outdoor, patchwork and quilting. The idea of deconstruction also plays a major role here. “The more the merrier,” says Agelink. In addition to the patchwork, there are also echoes of folklore.
But what is it all about? Examples include the first Sheltersuit collection, launched earlier this year, and Ahluwalia’s combination of historical fabrics and sportswear. The quilting motif can also be seen in Emily Bode’s Bode brand, which won the Karl Lagerfeld Award For Innovation earlier this year. An example of denim style within this theme is Glenn Martens’ collection for Diesel, shown at Milan Fashion Week in February. Everything together results in a real “Clochard” look.
Forecaster Jan Agelink sees three themes for the autumn/winter 2023 season
The second theme that Agelink has identified for the upcoming autumn-winter season is “Copy Cat”. A mix of streetwear and grunge looks can be seen here. There are many protest prints and garments that appear to have been hacked. As with the first theme, the impression is that of a collage. Prints are an important medium within this theme – not just slogan prints, but also 2D versions of 3D designs like the knitted and printed Gucci loafers. The body is also picked up in the print. Retro and seventies prints should also not be neglected in the coming season. Recent collections addressing the issue include those by Gucci x Adidas, Y Project, Botter and Loewe.
The third and final topic of Agelink’s presentation is called “Fashionaut”. This topic examines visions of the future. A futuristic impression is created through the use of technical materials and silver, which in turn are combined with downright earthly materials. For example, the trend researcher emphasizes very hairy or woolly materials: “This creates an imaginative mood – with exotic, almost extraterrestrial structures”.
With this theme, the colors come more clearly to the fore, for example “Very Peri”, the color of the year 2022 announced by Pantone, soft pink, different shades of green – from moss green to mint to green screen. Brands that fit the “fashionaut” theme are Duran Lantink, Rick Owens, Isabel Marant and Balmain.
“Fashionauts”, “Copycats” and nomads characterize the season for Jan Agelink
All of this takes place against the background of a field of tension in which people want to protect themselves, but also stroll around and show their bodies. Inclusivity and diversity are playing an increasingly important role in this, and this is where the Metaverse and Web 3.0 can also help, as the digital world partially democratizes fashion and gives consumers the opportunity to experiment with who they want to be. In addition, the “mixed reality” in which the physical world meets the digital is an important factor when it comes to trend forecasts for the upcoming autumn-winter season. Add to that the topic of sustainability and the circular economy, and this results in the mix that sets the tone at the moment. Agelink warns: “The level of knowledge consumers have about materials and sustainability cannot be underestimated”. That’s why he expects track and trace to become even more widespread in the fashion industry in the future, with even more items receiving a QR code and a blockchain with all the information about the garment.
Whether taking inspiration from the nomad theme, opting for print excess with the Copycat theme, or embracing the futuristic vibe of Fashionaut, the Autumn/Winter 2023 season promises plenty of inspiration.
This translated post previously appeared on FashionUnited.nl