This week, Berlin Fashion Week was the vanguard for the inaugural ‘Fashion Month’ with shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Even if the German capital can’t quite compete with the ‘big four’ with its designers and brands, there were some interesting trends to see. In addition to the techno-oriented Berlin style with lots of latex and bare skin, other collections also pulled together, tied themselves together and showed that work is also being done in the party metropolis.
Constricted
Following the example of the classic corset, brands such as Kitschy Couture and Richert Beil are using lacing this season to hold pieces together. In contrast to the corsage, body-hugging silhouettes were not used for AW24. These mostly remained straight or wide and flowing.
Alternatives to cords and eyelets are offered by Back2Back and Damur, which use the adjustment mechanisms of hoods and outerwear to tie their looks together. Instead of the practical size adjustment of hoods and sleeves, folds were formed and the garment was thus adjusted.
Decorative stitching
In addition to the lacing, decorative seams were also a popular detail on the catwalks in Berlin. The large stitches created some wild patterns that could be seen on short blazers and also leather dresses. At Lueder, on the other hand, only a single rounded line adorned a yellowish, orange sweater, which was reminiscent of an operation scar due to the interplay of color gradient and type of stitches.
Short jackets
Shortened jackets seem to be particularly popular in menswear in Berlin this season. From a simple blouson to a tight biker leather jacket, the skimpy pieces didn’t go above the belly button or just barely. Depending on the style and collection, the rest of the look can be sporty, casual, but also more chic.
Micro tops
The only thing that was even tighter was the looks that relied on micro tops. In keeping with the spirit of the wild Berlin clubs, where people often go without clothing, glitter belts and latex feather tube tops became the only piece of material on the upper body. Olivia Ballard, meanwhile, sent a minimalist bra woven from silver chains onto the runway.
Workwear with a difference
“If you can party, you can work the next day” also seemed to be the motto of the season in Berlin, because in addition to the party-loving looks, there were also one or two outfits that were inspired by workwear. However, we are not talking about suits à la office punk or typical workwear pieces such as denim and cargo pants, but rather clothing from different professions.
Glück Cloth sent a ballerina with a stiffly flared tutu onto the catwalk, SF1OG sent the teacher with a coffee cup and newspaper in the classroom-inspired collection and Haderlump, as part of the repeated cooperation with DHL, the stylish parcel delivery man with chic suit trousers.
Brand designer Mario Nein was inspired by christening gowns and matching bonnets for part of his collection, but on the full-grown model they are more reminiscent of the work clothes of historical maids with frilly aprons and a toque, the white cap of the kitchen staff.
