Bridal pop-up, Melange de Blanc, showcased a selection of international brands including Watters, Marchesa, Dany Tibet, Truvelle and Untamed Petals at Center415 in New York City for New York Bridal Fashion Week.
There were traditional dresses in shades of champagne, ecru and white with tonal embroidery at Eve of Milady; a quietly rebellious spirit emerging from the burgundy, forest green, scarlet and navy tones at Watters, while an alternative to beadwork was seen in the hand-painted hems at ZB Couture and breezy floral prints at Savin London.
Evan Hirsch had convertible dresses for the bride who wants a customized look for the ceremony and reception without having to change, and delicate headpieces by Halima Grine, who trained in millinery and hand beading in France.
Known for their celebrity clientele, Taiwanese sister duo Nicole + Felicia capitalized on the romantic appeal of lots of tulle; charming embellished bows and beaded skullcaps were popular, according to Colombian jeweler Zawadsky; and Bride hoodies, jogging bottoms and other cool Bridemerch clothing items provided the wedding party with great outfits to await the arrival of the glam troupe.
To analyze all of this and better understand the trends that will dominate bridal fashion in Spring 2024, FashionUnited spoke to Christina Wettstein, Co-Founder and Head of Brand Strategies for Coterie White and Melange de Blanc.
What criteria must brands meet to be included in Melange de Blanc?
Our goal for Melange de Blanc was to offer a wide range of brands; something for everyone without overwhelming one category. We pay a lot of attention to how many brands come from a certain country, for example do we have too many Lebanese designers? We would also rather have two designers with different price expectations. For us, the retail market starts at $1,500 to $15,000. When it comes to accessories too we want to make sure we have a nice range for everyone, one or two of every mood/aesthetic, for example something floral and something more over the top.
Are weddings back to where they were before the pandemic?
Definitely – last year there were more weddings than ever before! Weddings are definitely on the rise again, but I think the way this new generation of brides shop for dresses has changed and they’ve shifted the categories they want to spend money on. Millennials all want to be different; they put a lot of emphasis on the quality and construction of the clothes.
Which insights from buyers or designers are noteworthy for spring 2024?
Luxurious but classic Chantilly lace is in, pearls are still a part and more subdued 3D elements have been important to shoppers so far. Designers create very elevated looks and spice them up with gloves or detachable sleeves for a more versatile look. Shoppers ask for beautiful handcrafted beading and other embroidery, traditional lace and lots of satin. Mikado is always a great textured and clear fabric, but we’ve seen a resurgence in satin; he’s back in a big way again.
Are there certain dresses or silhouette trends that stand out?
This season is all about the modern, romantic, yet traditional bride, from the dresses to the accessories. In silhouettes, we’re seeing a resurgence of Basque waists that are incredibly flattering, inverted pleats and opaque looks – less see-through than in previous seasons.
Another big trend that is becoming more and more popular is the second look. The brides love the LWD (Little White Dress) in which they can show their personality on their wedding day. We see lots of ostrich feathers, scattered pearls and beadwork. When a bride is torn between two very different dresses when shopping for her wedding dress, the LWD is a great way to incorporate the look she hasn’t decided on.
Are there alternative embellishments to pearls or a more minimalist aesthetic?
In recent seasons there has been a big upsurge in hand painted fabrics and 3D floral trends that we still see a little bit of. But I do believe that the traditional bride is making a comeback – less see-through dresses and more lined dresses. We’re seeing more architectural, well-designed dresses this season.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.uk. Translated and edited by Simone Preuss.