Copenhagen Fashion Week set new trends last week. FashionUnited took a closer look at the shows – from classic Scandinavian labels to newcomers that are bringing a breath of fresh air to the Nordic fashion scene.
Blazers with dropped shoulders, flowing silhouettes, experimental knitwear and outdoor elements are complemented by cut-outs, asymmetrical details and patchwork in the coming season. Inspirations from the 2000s give the looks a nostalgic recognition value.
Tailoring and power dressing
Coats and blazers with boxy shapes and pronounced shoulders could be seen at numerous shows in Copenhagen. For women, the key pieces were often combined with skirts and boots, giving the looks a serious and self-confident look.
Suit combinations with a twist, such as trouser legs of different lengths and layering effects, as well as relaxed business looks in which luxurious fabrics such as satin were combined with strong woven material, ensured a play with contrasts. Deconstructed tailoring and the merging of masculine and feminine garments made the viewer take a closer look.
The coats and blazers at Martin Asbjørn were presented with casual dynamics half-buttoned and turned open to the sides. The understatement of the predominantly tone-on-tone layered looks was broken up with metallic color accents in some looks.
The Hamburg-based label Fassbender also played with the possibilities of two- and three-piece suits – including a dark double-breasted suit that was presented with Bermuda shorts, a powder-pink track jacket with a long dress underneath, and a tight-fitting knitted ensemble with a cape, skirt, and trousers.
At Gestuz, the jackets were shorter and narrower and showed off the hipsters. Plunging necklines, leather and vinyl materials, and gloves gave the looks a strong presence. The collection’s modern, wearable looks also showed a visual nod to ’80s power dressing, including padded shoulders and cinched waists.
Ganni also played with opposites – classic business looks were cleverly staged with finer materials such as lace and satin. Draped blouses and dresses with ruffle details contrasted with denim two-piece suits and cowboy boots.
At Day Birger et Mikkelsen, the boundaries between structured cuts and flowing materials became blurred. Soft dresses made of knitwear and pleated fabrics alternated with clearer styles in which leather vests were combined with suits. Particularly striking were golden button strips on tops, which were worn as a mixture of tunic and coat. Here, too, the silhouettes primarily emphasized the shoulders and waist.
Samsøe & Samsøe presented a somewhat commercial take on tailoring and confident looks. The Copenhagen label upgraded the collection with textured materials, bold color accents and prints. Cable knits, puffer jackets and slipovers create a wintry look.
Experimental knitwear, mix of materials and patchwork
Knitwear has long been a recurring classic among Nordic labels. In the coming autumn/winter season, patchwork and cut-out details ensure a DIY character. The two trends have been embraced in different ways by labels such as A. Roege Hove, Jade Cropper and Division.
At A. Roege Hove, a knitwear label founded in 2019, designer Amalie Røge Hove experimented with body shapes and the elastic adaptability of knitwear. The label presented creations that played with recesses, asymmetry and transparency in a very body-hugging and individual way.
Jade Cropper also featured deconstructed looks that played around the body. Wrapping techniques, draping and button strips loosened up the irregularities in the figure-hugging silhouettes. The label played with contrasting fabrics such as mesh, denim, leather, satin and pieces with sequins. Many of the looks featured a high leg slit, as well as openings at the shoulders and hips.
Patchwork was also an elementary part of the collection at Divisions. The label, which was founded in Copenhagen in 2018, is known for reassembling its garments from existing clothing. Various graphic prints were combined on dresses and tops. Plaid inserts on sweatshirts and jackets assembled from different fabrics created a DIY effect. Hip jeans and wavy hems gave the looks a nostalgic touch reminiscent of the 2000s. Peaked caps, shirts and college jackets gave the women’s looks in the collection a tomboy touch.
Alternate universes and the big, wide world
The Gorpcore trend also emerged as a popular design tool at the Copenhagen Fashion Week. gorpcore describes a style that is based on functional and camping clothing. Interpreted in different ways, the trend ranges from looks for a dystopian future to casual hiking outfits.
Tobias Birk Nielsen, designer at Iso.poetism, transported the audience to another world with a stylish presentation, where clothing serves as protection. A screen in the background showed a cloudy sky while the walkway was lined with moss-covered rocks. Camouflage patterns, cowl-like outerwear and enveloping hoods made the models look like the protagonists of an apocalyptic film. Technical materials and functional designs, such as waistcoats with pockets, elastic bands on jackets and zippers that can be opened on multiple sides, give the collection the finishing touch.
Similar stylistic devices could also be observed at Henrik Vibskov – protective headgear and long, voluminous coats were combined with puffer vests reminiscent of protective vests. The shoes of the models, which are made of a hoof-like base and lacing, also caught the eye. Different prints such as checks, polka dot patterns and classic Norwegian motifs made the looks varied.
The women’s label Stine Goya showed a similar approach, albeit much more colorful and elegant. Shimmering rain capes in an ombré look were combined with psychedelic prints that made the models appear like exotic creatures. Floral patterns on dresses, in combination with heavy boots, made for high-contrast looks. The color palette ranged from neon orange, frog green and bright pink to apricot and lilac.
At Holzweiler and Wood Wood, the outdoor trend was picked up in a less extravagant form – jackets and coats made of weatherproof, warm materials over long sleeves and turtleneck sweaters gave both collections a kind of lumberjack and après-ski aesthetic. The looks were rounded off with winter accessories. Wood Wood also sported hats with earflaps, as well as a pair of white snow boots, while at Holzweiler, models wore mittens, bucket hats and oversized scarves.
