“A canteen is a place where you go to have a few drinks, but also where you can eat and have a snack, almost as if it were a tapas. There are some canteens where they give you a few plates for the purchase of the drink, but it depends on the canteen where you go”, summarizes the concept of this curious gastronomic space the Mexican chef Antonio Bautista.
The denomination derives from the Italian cava de vino, that is to say, “cellar” or “vault”a term from the Latin “singing”. In this regard, in the 60s, canteens were booming within the La Boc neighborhooda, cradle of Buenos Aires Italian immigration in which the visitor visited several places to try their menu.
In Buenos Aires, there is a resurgence of canteens with different qualities and styles, many specialized in ethnic gastronomy and others in signature foods. Of course, there are canteens for vegans and vegetarians within this variety. The most visible and essential of these culinary redoubts is the link between gastronomy and the drinks that the visitor consumes and, of course, the crowd of people eager to savor the menu.
Currently, there is a resurgence of places within the city that offer different varieties and styles, within the concept of this curious space. Due to its proposal and variety, there are three places that take the canteen to another level.
Amador Cantina – José Antonio Cabrera 5995
Amador specializes in meeting through abundant meals and large tables with tablecloths, family attention and good wine. The space is created by the team of Koko Bao Bar and has the notable feature of being an exclusively plant-based canteen, with a chef-designed menu Ivan Moyano.
The idea of the place is to present and combine familiar dishes and well-known flavors, with other newer ones, all based on plants, but without trying to simulate those derived from meat. With dishes that are already classics like his mushroom papillote, their spinach conchiglioni or the fantastic creamy chocolate.
With some design details such as a wall of native plants from the Pampas region, paintings, a piano, a majestic window and candlelight, it manages to create a warm and at the same time special, or festive, atmosphere so that all meals taste of the celebration. “We wanted to make a plant-based restaurant, for people who don’t base their food on plants,” say its owners, referring to the fact that they seek to show that food can be eaten abundantly, have main courses and snack dishes.
Aurelia Cantina – El Salvador 5090
“Aurelia is inspired by the coasts of Mexico and we decided to call it a cantina because we want to have a wider bar of drinks, mezcal and tequila. Not just to come for dinner but to go have a good time and have a drink. The kitchen continues to be inspired by the traditional Mexican style and above all aiming at author drinks that are brought from Mexico so that people know and like it”, expresses the reference of the space, Antonio Bautista, a native of Veracruz, that next to Freddy Morales and Jesus Cabrera, created Aurelia Canteen.
The Aztec cuisine expert, about the taste of the local public, highlighted: “Aurelia was born last year, inspired by the name of a lady from the Mexican coasts. The people who visit us receive the flavors very well, betting on what is different. There is a very good reception from the Argentine public because we aim for the wealthy and Buenos Aires is open to it”. The minilla empanadas, the chicharron taco and the roasted aguachileare the most requested local.
Chub Rotisserie – Thames 1627
A neon sign announces “Chub Rotisserie” in orange and light blue. Below, a striped PVC awning, a refrigerator with exposed dishes and a butcher’s scale complete the scene that seems to have been cut from a Buenos Aires canteen from the 80s. Although the name refers to the concept of “rotisserie”, with a Notable nod to retro, the gastronomic venue offers food and drinks to eat on the spot.
The gastronomic space of Sebastian Atienza It offers abundant dishes, the specialty being the stuffed potato tortilla, the kale pascualinas and the smoked eggplant and fugazzeta empanadas. Of course, the vermouth, served in short glasses, is Cacho’s star vintage drink. Also, following the revival aesthetic, the soda comes in a siphon and the wine in classic penguins.
by RN