After Andrei Warren’s immersive cube and his vision of a Barcelona lined with denimwhich this Wednesday continued to cause a sensation in the Open Area of the Sant Pau venue that hosts the 32nd edition of the 080 Barcelona Fashion, the second day has raised the blinds a couple of kilometers away, with a presentation also in the form of video installation and 3D by the designers of Velásquez and Jnorig. A format that we will see more and more in the future, without leaving aside. Those of today, in charge of Cherry Massia, Lebor Gabala, Paolo Leduc, Custo Barcelona and Carlota Barrerahave combined youth and seniority, sobriety and transgression.
OFF: One Real World
Velásquez and Jnorig see digital art and 3D video installation as the “best way to make your brand and philosophy known” and to interact with the public. His almost science fiction proposals can be visited at Studio1o, on Ribera street, in the heart of the new urban trends neighborhood of Barcelona. ‘Upcycling’ and the LGTBIQ+ universe of the designer of Miley Cyrus and Karol G. condensed in an installation with sculptures, videos and QR. Next door, an immersive experience with a mirror maze to show a capsule with a cyberpunk flavor.
Cherry Massia
Irene Romero Massia (Seville, 1995) arrived five years ago to conquer Spanish fashion since her debut, with a collection, ‘The Rise’, an end-of-career collection inspired by deep themes, myths and philosophy. The success of that capsule was such, she tells this newspaper, that that same 2018 she launched her brand, Cherry Massia, with which today artists such as Mala Rodríguez, Aitana, Nathy Peluso, Milena Smit, Lola Índigo, La Zowi, Blanca Suárez, Carolina Yuste or Ana Torroja.
In his debut in Barcelona, after triumphing on the Madrid catwalk, he presents ‘Eros and Psyche’, a collection of 23 ‘looks’ inspired by Greek myth with garments that enhance an empowered and proud femininity, also of its most sensitive and emotional side. Cherry reds, blacks, off-white and silver gray adapt to traditional and artisanal corsetry, but with a very groundbreaking ‘underground’ aesthetic.
Lebor Gabala
The collection ‘Mai Tai‘ by designer Maite Muñoz is inspired by an exotic cocktail that receives the same name and represents “sunrises and sunsetsl”, according to statements by the designer herself in a brief meeting with EL PERIÓDICO. The garments feature “flowers, vegetation, colors and prints on silk pieces.” The brand mixes the timeless elegance that characterizes the firm with the exotic. Taupe, sand and gray colors stand out, along with bright and metallic colors. The collection presents tops, skirts and knitted dresses fitted to the body with more sophisticated draping and volumes that add a special touch.
Paolo Leduc
In ‘Contraband Goods‘ reinforces the DNA of the brand, this time reinforced with the aesthetics of culture of dandies and gangsters. The unisex patterns of shirts and jackets stand out, while the models have sported removable tattoos of Paolo on their skin. “I am inspired by my ‘background’, the graffiti and tailoring as pillars of the brand. We want to push the hybrid between tailoring, streetwear, rock and punk. What I like is that you can’t classify it into something specific,” explains the designer.
Distorting the classic forms of tailoring, deconstruction of garments, the use of digital stamping with the ‘trompe l’oeil’ technique and manipulation of fabrics and reinforcing an interpretation of the silhouettes. “One has to continue pushing the brand’s DNA until it encompasses all the things that the brand is,” says Paolo. The designer repeats at 080 Barcelona after his first show just a few months ago. “The first collection was a brand presentation to make ourselves known and now it was to assert itself and teach what we do. In 2024 we want to continue moving forward and make the brand really work,” concludes the creative.
Custo Barcelona
After presenting it in New York last February and Madrid, the veteran designer brings to Barcelona ‘Welcome to the other side’, but “with looks adapted in new combinations and garments to show them off like new in 080,” Custo explained before the show. In total 64 proposals, “because the current collection that is in store is also shown,” he commented. “Special work has been done with the ‘oversize’ technical down jackets with a metallic appearance although with very soft fabrics, and also with the dresses, with openings, asymmetries and architecture to be defined and who are the spokespersons of this collection“, he pointed out. The volumes and lines are the parameters that, together with the fusion of the chosen materials, make up the sought-after innovation, the brand’s DNA.
Carlota Barrera
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The Asturian designer, expert in tailoring, based until a few months ago in London, presents her collection at 080 Barcelona Fashion for the first time after a move to Spain that precipitated Brexit. Present your ‘Core Collection‘, a proposal of timeless and basic pieces with silks and cottons. The show featured a live musical performance by Wekafore that followed the models’ journey down the catwalk.
The brand is genderless, with a masculine style, but with the desire to dress everyone regardless of their body or expression of identity. It also makes a big commitment to sustainability with the use of materials from big brands from past collections as well as recycled or reused fabrics.