If the first day of the parades of the 080 It was a ode to color, enthusiasm and the joy of meeting againthis Wednesday’s appointment has been presented as a invitation to travel to distant dream worlds; at least in its early stages, which have started with a little less public in the front rows.
IS COMING
A ‘Hotel in Barbados’. With that evocative name, the firm founded about three years ago by Constan Hernandez, who founded and chaired Hoss Intropia until he left it and re-engaged fashion with is Coming, a new project emerged almost at the same time as the pandemic. A large part of that team was brought, a family to which the Bilbao Usua Echegoyencreative director of the firm, who, at almost 60 years old, has wasted incredible energy in her first face-to-face fashion show on the Catalan fashion platform (although she was present on the digital ones).
“What I want is to have fun, and for my 22-year-old daughter to wear my clothes”, she assured at the end of the presentation of the collection, which she summarized graphically: “The Caribbean, a decadent Princess Margarita, on a night of endless party at the edge of a swimming pool”. An ideal ‘props’ where her new proposal is framed, a collection that follows the line of the three that preceded it: timelessness and versatility. But here, in addition, playing The day and the night, with an explosive color, geometric prints -characteristic of the 20s- and combinations of fabrics. Inspired by colonial Central America, the men’s linen jackets and pants, the exaggerated skirts combined with small jackets and the men’s shirts, in delicate shades of peach, lilac, pink and light green. And also a bit of subtle metallic ‘brilli-brilli’, which “even combines with flip-flops”, according to Usua.
LARHHA
The following collection has continued the journey a few decades later, as in the 1950s, as the puffer silhouettes, capes and balloon coats and, above all, the headdresses, in the form of super-padded hoodshave been a feast for lovers of the legacy of Balenciagaabove all, but also valentine.
And it is that Larhha, the signature of the architects Miguel Marin and Natalia Lorcawho have paraded for the first time at 080 Barcelona Fashion, creates their dresses as if they were buildings, with architectural volumes from head to toe, also influenced by the works of Moneo and Gehry.
Their silhouettes of great drama and experimentation, which combine from the more classic style to the most macarras and sporty ‘looks’They have had a good number of ‘tiktokers’ and ‘influencers’, like Cris Mataor one of the most influential and recognized fashion experts in Spain, Clara Courel (even more popular since his participation last summer in the Netflix reality show ‘First Class’).
SIMORRA
signature of Javier Simoraresponsible for closing the last edition, has presented a collection, ‘Nomad’made up of a total of 27 looks (five to seven pieces each). More than four decades of experience, however, have not prevented him from starting from the most avant-garde ideas. Victoria Mitjans, the firm’s designer, explained that “the central idea is overlays, layers, garments that we can carry with us throughout our lives”. The first group, the only black that has paraded, belongs to a ‘capsule’ -already in stores- called ‘Polaris’. That is the star by which the nomads are guided on their journey.
After that first ‘look’ others have followed in a base palette of raw, beige, brown and green, but to which other colors have also been added, such as orange, mauve and a very cool fuchsia. Shearling, parkas, wool and a Jacquard pattern that has been repeated in several modelsand even combined with fringes.
The parades have then continued with:
ENAUT
The signature of the Basque designer established in Barcelona Eñaut Barruetabeñawinner of the National Award for Emerging Design of the Generalitat, has presented Under, a minimalist proposal and a sustainable vision in which marine plants are praised over their environmental impact. And as for the silhouettes predominate the symmetrical and architectural volumes that mix with other softer ones. The result is a mix between details from the past and minimalist pieces from the future in knits, regenerated wool and organic elements in neutral tones with monochromatic makeup pink ‘looks’.
TXELL MIRAS
The designer from Sabadell, an institution on the Catalan fashion catwalk, has presented a collection whose axis is in the geometric games contrasted with vertical lines that coexist with an unprecedented color palette. Superimposed pieces, perfectly structured and with complex shapes in denim, cotton, neoprene and viscose, have especially predominated.
SUNDAY
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The day from Alicante has closed Domingo Rodriguez Lazaro (1994)better known as Dominnico, and for being the creator of the ‘looks’ of Rosalía’s ‘El Mal Querer’ tour, as well as other spectacular looks worn by Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Chanel and Lali Espósito. In his first fashion show at Barcelona Fashion Week, he presented outfits with an ‘athleisure’ character in a collection entitled ‘Nenne Spring 2023’.
The crowded parade with a large presence of ‘influencers’, ‘youtubers’, ‘streamers’ and ‘instagramers’, has begun with a 3D piece “that we have designed and that is part of a bumper”, explained the designer, you added that collection “It is a tribute to my father who passed away this year and in it There are many pieces with a lot of mechanics, a lot of sheet metal and even body fabrics, laminated, metallic and grills with rhinestones, just as there are leather garments with details reminiscent of car and motorcycle trims”, he concludes.