The other woman: sensual, mysterious and delicate

The Princess of Marras, Etro’s fantasies. And at Cavalli the wonder of marble

Cristina Manfredi

It’s one of the magics of fashion: it creates a trend and at the same time develops its opposite. The sequence of collections that enhance the refined rigor of essential garments is answered by fashion shows with a more exposed, accentuated femininity, unless they are called Glenn Martens and for Diesel to send a show on the stage that embodies both souls. After the first two days of the Milanese catwalks, there is a desire for patterns, silhouettes, colors halfway between seduction and amiability, an approach to the wardrobe that shuns pure essentiality, but doesn’t even abandon itself to hyperbole and mischief.

precious

At Etro, Marco De Vincenzo, fresh from dressing the winner of Sanremo, Angelina Mango, arrives at the show more confident than ever. His mood portrays a precious woman, who he knows how to soften with an excellent job of modernizing paisley and jacquard. After which he enjoys teasing with the see-through printed tulle resulting from the collaboration with Wolford. Antonio Marras has always been a master in the art of dressing a woman with wild romanticism, whose large flowers printed on graceful chiffon meet bright tartans, while the lines recall clothing from yesteryear, lingering just right in nostalgia. In short, he is a distillation of a mysterious and indomitable woman, like his muse of inspiration for the season, the medieval princess of Sardinia Eleonora D’Arborea.

determined

Decisive And then there is Fausto Puglisi, increasingly at ease at the creative helm of Roberto Cavalli, for whom he designs a woman with decisive sexyness, as is in the brand’s DNA, in the same way as the prints he reworks taking inspiration from one of his great passion, marbles of which he is an avid collector. Little pragmatism and a lot of sweetness finally from Moschino. The brand launches the collection which marks the debut of the new creative director Adrian Appiolaza, after the sudden death last November of the newly appointed Davide Renne. A breath of lightness that pays homage with a delicate and contemporary attitude to the irreverent inspiration of the founder Franco Moschino. And a message for the world written in capital letters: peace.



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