ANDIt was 2020 when the fashion week of Copenhagen (considered the fifth fashion week in the world after New York, London, Milan 4 Paris,) officially put the sustainability as its main focus, to make substantial changes by encouraging the industry to accelerate its efforts in this area. An ambitious three-year action plan suggested an innovative system of requirements that brands would have to adhere to in order to be part of the official programme: that action plan, reviewed and published every three years, sets the Copenhagen Fashion Weekas confirmed by the 2024 edition, like the leading fashion week in the field of sustainability.
Copenhagen Fashion Week Summer 2024
This August, in a rainy but very lively fashion week, the Danish capital did not waste a moment to continue its path towards environmental protection, carried forward by the Spring-Summer 2024 collections where the example of “Scandi” style is renewed between (splendid) clichés and novelties: the minimal approach, perfect combinations of neutral colors and unexpected hues, but also an extremely chic way of wearing oversized pieces. In short, remixing one’s wardrobe is an art that in these countries will always bring a result of extreme elegance as confirmed by Lena-Sophie Roeper, Luxury Fashion Director of Zalandoonline shopping platform and main sponsor of Copenhagen Fashion Week.
A Spring-Summer outfit by Gestuz (@jamescochranephoto).
«Scandinavian brands are getting stronger, they get along well with the style of many other markets, they grow quickly. There is something very cool in their elegance, a trait of comfort and practicality: certainly without generalizing, they can also be so feminine, sometimes so colourful! This is confirmed by already well-known brands such as GANNI or Stine Goyawhere so many contrasts give new life to that calmness often associated with Nordic collections».
A Spring-Summer 2024 outfit by GANNI (James Cochrane).
Cult brands from the North
A real phenomenon that of GANNI, which with offices in London, Paris, New York and Shanghai stands out in over 600 of the best shops in the world (and in 37 points of sale throughout Europe and the United States). His sustainable world? The use of Oleatex, fabric produced using waste streams from olive oil production. But also sequins created using an Algreen fabric innovation, which transforms algae and agricultural waste into recyclable and plastic-free sequins (both part of the program Fabrics of the Future by GANNI). The architectural style of is also known among the connoisseurs Stine Goyaa brand launched by the Danish designer of the same name who in this Copenhagen Fashion Week Summer 2024 boasts 93% of the garments created with responsibly sourced materials such as organic cotton, recycled polyester and TENCEL™, but also apple leather for its accessories.
A Spring-Summer 2024 suit by Stine Goya (@jamescochranephoto).
«You breathe an aura of sensuality linked more to the beauty of the garment and its craftsmanship than to a simple display of the body. Being “just” sexy is not part of the style of these countries: the Scandinavian market is far ahead in the perception of the female body. The new generations are used to no longer attaching importance to the concept of “perfect body”, individuality is always preferred». An ideal demonstrated by brands such as gesture, with models that emphasize the strength of femininity inspired by the past of the most modern women of rock’and’roll; while the highly acclaimed Remain, based in Copenhagen, is born out of a strong heritage in which craftsmanship and quality materials have long been paramount. His mission? Creating a contemporary wardrobe with an unmistakable character, where the sensuality of each garment meets sartorial rigor.
Veil cape and skirt, from the Remain Spring-Summer 2024 collection.
“Scandi” style
Also intriguing is the creativity of Vainwith its dark and decidedly gritty street-style, increasingly in sight thanks to projects such as the recent collaboration with the McDonald’s chain to recycle old uniforms from work on a fashion collection that has reached over 200 million people on social media. By 2026, Vain aims to have over 80% of sales from its online store, with over 50% made to order to keep excesses to a minimum.
Total black look for Vain Spring-Summer 2024.
And what about Pauline Russothis year’s winner of the new Zalando Visionary Award (but also a finalist of the LVMH Prize 2023, as well as of the International Woolmark Prize 2023)? An award with which Zalando supports the ability of the creators of the future by allowing them to demonstrate not only the winners’ efforts in terms of sustainability, but also their passion for design, creativity, innovation and positive social impact.
Craftsmanship and natural dyes for a Spring-Summer 2024 look by Paolina Russo (James Cochrane).
Just like the style expressed by Paolina Russo, the London brand founded in 2021 by Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard. Merit of a use of traditional craftsmanship expressed above all in knitwear, natural dyeing and wood carving, modernized giving life to a folkloric and futuristic aesthetic, concludes Lena-Sophie Roeper: «For us Paolina Russo is an excellent example of this universe: as an innovator she knows how to give her vision in terms of heritage, past beauty and future visions. It is a world where, as we well know, copying is the order of the day. Instead, we want to help those who (even with a little audacity) will make a point of honor from their own initiative».
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