While the topic of ‘quiet luxury’ is becoming increasingly important in menswear and brands like Amiri and Gucci are sending significantly quieter collections for men onto the catwalk, there are still a few outliers that stand out from the crowd. Instead of chunky knits in shades of brown and black and straight-lined suits, color also plays a role for FW24 and a bit of glitter here and there.
FashionUnited has summarized the hottest trends from the men’s fashion weeks in Paris and Milan for you.
Norwegian sweater
The start will still be cozy at first, because Norwegian sweaters are celebrating their comeback. However, the colorfully patterned knitted pieces are getting an update this season and are not only seen in the classic form like at Kolor. For AW24, Loewe transfers the style to a long-sleeved shirt and styles it with a loose beige cargo baggy.
Sacai goes one step further and incorporates the pattern that the Japanese luxury brand uses for fluffy sweaters across the entire range. From denim two-piece skirt and trousers to oversized cardigans and outerwear jackets. But slit tank tops and floor-length dresses can also be seen in the collection, which is presented by models of different genders.
leggings
While trouser legs in menswear have become wider again in recent seasons, some brands now seem to be going in the complete opposite direction and defying gender stereotypes. Instead of jeans and suit pants, leggings and tights are also on the catwalk. The leggings are combined with boots in which they disappear. Doublet uses the tight-fitting trousers as a contrast to another sweater to play with the silhouette. Loewe, on the other hand, uses a shirt that is also tightly cut, which makes the look very straightforward. JW Anderson, meanwhile, uses dark, transparent tights, which, however, do not extend beyond the length of biker shorts. The British designer also combines the piece with wide-cut shirts and sweaters or sends the model onto the catwalk in just the tightest underwear.
Glitter and glamour
For the next party, the fashion designers are also using womenswear and bringing a little glitter and glamor to the otherwise reserved men’s fashion. There were various tops that were decorated with silver, sparkling rhinestones. From a muscle shirt to a high-necked turtleneck sweater, there was something for everyone. The sparkling piece is the focus and is combined with reserved suit trousers or even a dark skirt.
Political message
Fashion is also often used as a reflection of society. While wars continue to be waged in Ukraine and the Middle East and climate change is increasingly showing its effects, designers are also drawing attention to these issues in their collections.
Bluemarble and 3.Paradis set a sign for peace in the form of the peace symbol or with a white dove as a print. Emeric Tchatchoua, designer behind the Parisian label 3.Paradis, also presents a bag with the inscription “The World needs more Love”. This is part of a look in which the face of the Cuban revolutionary Che Guevara can be seen on a red hoodie. The piece combines a political statement – also a controversial one – with the return of a print that was particularly popular on T-shirts in the early 2000s, regardless of whether everyone wearing it knew who was shown on it.
The Berlin label GmbH also took a stand not only but also during their fashion show and spoke out against discrimination. Serhat Işık and Benjamin Huseby, the duo behind the brand, also made their solidarity with Palestine clear in a speech. This was underlined in the collection by a watermelon print – the fruit became a symbol of protest because it has the colors of the Palestinian flag – as well as a keffiyeh – colloquially known as “Pali cloth”.
Simple leather jackets
The pieces from Fendi, Jordanluca and Valentino were a little quieter. All three brands sent quite simple “leather” jackets and coats onto the catwalk. Without logos or patch pockets and sometimes even without a collar, the “Quiet Luxury” countercurrent to leather jackets from the motorsport and aviation sectors was evident here. While Jordanluca played with color with red, Fendi and Valentino also held back with it.
Cats
While some designers extend their claws to make themselves heard, others rely on the cat itself. This was among the most popular prints of the season and was seen at brands such as JW Anderson, Acne Studios and Givenchy.
Picturesque
But it wasn’t just cats that were popular in the collections; picturesque scenarios depicting a wide variety of situations were also depicted in pastel colors on items such as suits and sweaters. Similar styles, as seen at MSGM, JW Anderson and Balmain, have already been available from Casablanca Paris and Kid Super in previous seasons.
