At the current edition of the Amsterdam womenswear trade fair Modefabriek, the dominance of the German-speaking audience is clearly noticeable. In addition to over sixty exhibitors from Germany, Austria and Switzerland, buyers and interested parties also don’t want to miss the event – probably because the opportunities in their home countries are increasingly dwindling.
It wasn’t until November that the traditional trade fair came to an end Premium Berlin announced. Other events such as Panorama, which once attracted tens of thousands of international visitors to the German capital, have not taken place for several seasons. As Bearer of hope and the only trade fair in Berlin that remains is Seek.
With the options no longer available, even more people are coming to the neighboring Netherlands to discover not only international brands at Modefabriek, but also the FW24 collections of their own compatriots.
After the trade fair lull in Germany: relocation to the neighboring country?
“Berlin is closing, and other markets are benefiting,” says German designer Sophie Schneider-Esleben, with a wink, who is represented at the trade fair for the first time with her label of the same name. She draws her inspiration from watercolors by her grandfather Paul Schneider-Esleben, a post-war architect, which she graphically adapts to the body using fabrics.
Although there were already in the last SS24 season Representatives of the German fashion industry on site, such as a buyer from the retailer Kress Modezentrum or the women’s fashion brand Aaiko, will be joined this season by other German greats such as the shoe supplier Tamaris, which is part of the Wortmann Group Clothing supplier Atelier Gardeur GmbH from Mönchengladbach and the Bielefeld shirt manufacturer Seidensticker among the exhibitors.
“There are even more country neighbors here than in the previous edition,” notes a Dutch buyer. “However, this is also an advantage for us as we no longer have to travel far to discover German brands.” A shift is welcomed. Conversations quickly suggest that German-speaking buyers target brands from the regions of Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Often people already know each other from previous trade fairs or start chatting over their shared mother tongue.
Atmosphere at the trade fair is convincing
“Modefabriek is simply a cool trade fair,” says Jonas Kölln, managing director of the German textile wholesaler Kurt Kölln, which specializes in cashmere and accessories. During a visit last year, the event left a lasting impression, so he is now exhibiting for the first time with the company’s subsidiary brand Zwillingsherz, which offers knitwear with an emphasis on high-quality materials. The hit rate is also significantly higher.
Similar tones come from the corner of the Hamburg clothing retailer Lascana. “The mood is really good,” says a representative of the label, which belongs to the Hamburg trading group Otto Group. In the Netherlands they want to open up new areas and get customers excited about the ‘Woman’s World’ clothing line.
Although many German-speaking exhibitors have sought Dutch support for their stands, this is rarely needed. “Modefabriek is very attractive for us because many Dutch buyers and agents speak German,” explains Sabrina Nebeling-Aysal, founder of the Lara Laurén label. The specialization is on outdoor clothing and bags. “Retailers like the combination of clothing and accessories because the matching additions sell well.” Sales are currently being organized internally, and after the trade fair we will move on to Supreme in Munich and the Danish CIFF to reach new markets open up.
German-speaking audience conservative – ‘unusual things are better received here’
The motivation of many brands to exhibit in Amsterdam also seems to be based on the taste of the Dutch public. “We were advised to explore the market in northern Europe with our unusual brand portfolio,” says Innsbruck designer Claudia Steiner of the CxB label. “We have a community in Austria, but conservative tendencies there make it more difficult for a rocking brand.” The reputation of Dutch fashion enthusiasts is “casual,” which is why they hope that a gender-neutral collection will be well received by buyers.
Yves Rasschaert, wholesale manager of the Belgian brand LolaLiza, also underlines the conservative, analytical behavior of German customers: “You could describe them as closed. In addition, social influences such as the conflicts in Ukraine and Israel have an enormous influence on the German market.”
Differences are also noticed in Miss Goodlife. “The German audience demands additional advice and information about the pieces, while Dutch people prefer to just look,” said a representative of the German women’s clothing brand. The label returns to Amsterdam again with a colorful collection.
Space for statements
This year there will also be places dedicated to special topics, including the trend forum, which presents the fashion trends of the coming seasons. The ‘Fashion Gallery’ surprises with impressive silhouettes, while the ‘Spotlight’ area puts young, expressive brands in the spotlight. In addition, lectures and master classes offer a varied program on artificial intelligence, clothing rental and a green future.
The Modefabriek provides a comprehensive and entertaining range of events that will certainly become a must-attend event for German-speaking fashion industry professionals in the future.